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I need help with throttle body

If you have checked the fuse to the PCM and it is OK then here is what I suggest. Disconnect the coil power cable then Remove the intake. Now have someone try to start it while you peer into the intake to see if fuel comes out of the injectors. If it does then put it all back together and put a spark plug on one of the wires and touch to ground. Now have someone crank it over to see if you have spark. If there is spark then cam timing is probably fubar.

If all else fails time to take the shop manual for a spin.
 
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I agree ....... are the spark plugs wet with gas ? .....do the plugs spark when you rest them on the cam cover ? .....G.
 
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I agree ....... are the spark plugs wet with gas ? .....do the plugs spark when you rest them on the cam cover ? .....G.

I'm going to try chief's trick. I'm going to double check that the plugs are wet because the last time I checked them was before i fixed the circuitry problem. I never tested the plugs by resting them on the cover though, I just used the inline spark tester
 
.... taking the plugs out to visually check them for spark, allows you to see if the spark is weak yellow or strong blue.

Your tester only tells you if a lead is being switched on and off, I'm guessing.

Having said that;, a large blue spark resting on the engine block, is no guarantee that the plug works well under pressure in the cylinder

A pressurized plug tester I imagine, is the kind of kit the 'Chief' might use on his dragster ....G.
 
.... taking the plugs out to visually check them for spark, allows you to see if the spark is weak yellow or strong blue.

Your tester only tells you if a lead is being switched on and off, I'm guessing.

Having said that;, a large blue spark resting on the engine block, is no guarantee that the plug works well under pressure in the cylinder

A pressurized plug tester I imagine, is the kind of kit the 'Chief' might use on his dragster ....G.
Interesting, I may have to try that, but for now I know I definetely have a fuel problem because im getting fuel on cylinders 1-3 now because all those plugs were wet after I tried to start it...however, the other bank, cylinders 4-6, were all bone dry. I'm not sure why only half of them are spitting fuel, when I know the circuitry is good...is it possible that the IMRC connection that isn't plugged into anything, could be causing this problem? I had the IMRC deleted with a tune, but wouldn;t the connection create an open in the circuit?
 
.is it possible that the IMRC connection that isn't plugged into anything, could be causing this problem? I had the IMRC deleted with a tune, but wouldn;t the connection create an open in the circuit?
I don't believe the IMRC has anything to do with the injectors....if it did, none of the injectors would work.

Looks like you will have to unplug the PCM and check each pin to the relevant injector ground. You'll also need to confirm 12v at the injector .... G.

You could apply 12v across the injectors to see if you can hear them clicking. (with them disconnected from the PCM) I used my battery charger.
 
I don't believe the IMRC has anything to do with the injectors....if it did, none of the injectors would work.

Looks like you will have to unplug the PCM and check each pin to the relevant injector ground. You'll also need to confirm 12v at the injector .... G.

You could apply 12v across the injectors to see if you can hear them clicking. (with them disconnected from the PCM) I used my battery charger.

I don't remember if I mentioned this on this forum or if it was jus neco but I want to mention that I already checked this. The way I performed this test was by bypassing the relay (using a kit I have) what I did was put a test relay in(this was included in the kit and does not work like a normal relay at all it just has all the pins on the exterior for testing) so what I did was run a test leaf from the positive battery post to the two relay feeds so that the battery voltage could be supplied to the circuit. In doing so, I also grabbed a multimeter that was set to volts, and I put the positive lead on each pin that corresponds with the power side of the circuit(on the injectors of course) and then I put the negative feed on a known ground. The result of the test was that I was getting 11+ volts at every injector. Also to add, I also tested the ground side of the injectors by resting the pcm wire that came from each injector with the pcm connector pin that corresponds with that wire..with that test I verified that I have continuity because I had less than an ohm of resistance on each wire. After this I uses a noid light just to verify circuitry on the injectors, and every injector lit up during cranking. So what this tells me is it has nothing to do with the wiring to the injectors. Which leads me to believe that either all three injectors, on the same bank (mind you), are all bad, or I have a problem with fuel pressure getting to every injector, or that I have something wrong with ignition (specifically the cam and crank sensor) that could be causing the pcm to not fire them
 
..... take the injectors out of 1, 2 and 3 and put them in 4, 5 and 6 .... and report back what happens regarding wet plugs .....


In fact, while you.ve got the inlet off .... do what crewchiefpro said and look down the intake and observe the fuel spraying in the ports noting the way the fuel is sprayed ..... G.
 
..... take the injectors out of 1, 2 and 3 and put them in 4, 5 and 6 .... and report back what happens regarding wet plugs .....


In fact, while you.ve got the inlet off .... do what crewchiefpro said and look down the intake and observe the fuel spraying in the ports noting the way the fuel is sprayed ..... G.

Okay, I'll let you know what happens
 
Okay so I ended up taking the injectors to school last week to have them tested with one of the instructors fancy machines. Essentially it tests to see how much fuel the injectors will spray in a given time. Well the first time he did it only two injectors were spraying so he ran some cleaner through them for about 3 cycles and now they are all spraying. Just not equally because they were gummed up pretty bad. Anyways he's going to keep cleaning them until their good to go so hopefully this is all I need to get the car rolling.
 
Ray; sometimes no amount of cleaning will get the injectors to flow equally .... it may be possible only to get them within an acceptable tolerance.

Suppliers of refurbished injectors, have the advantage of large stocks, to make a set that are closely matched

If you can pick up a spare set of injectors you may be able to make a well matched set and have a few spares with known values, cleaned and ready to go.

Envious of your access to the injector testing equipment, a faulty injector can lead to piston failiure .....G.
 
Ray; sometimes no amount of cleaning will get the injectors to flow equally .... it may be possible only to get them within an acceptable tolerance.

Suppliers of refurbished injectors, have the advantage of large stocks, to make a set that are closely matched

If you can pick up a spare set of injectors you may be able to make a well matched set and have a few spares with known values, cleaned and ready to go.

Envious of your access to the injector testing equipment, a faulty injector can lead to piston failiure .....G.

Yeah, I agree. I was just waiting to see what happens with these and worse case scenario I'd probably get some new ones on rock auto because I seen some on wholesale. The guy I have cleaning them wouldn't steer me wrong - he will let me know if I need different one. Dude is a genius
 
Ray; I remember a thread from many moons ago , where a member called Bigballedox I think.... was asking how you remove the filters properly and without damaging the injector

I'd seen a video on you tube of a guy screwing a large wood screw into the top of the injector and effectively slide hammering it out. I didn't want to suggest it because .... well.... it may have worked but who knows if it was safe and or correct.

Has your instructor given you a class on overhauling / servicing an injector ? Can you school us or do a 'how to/ ? ....G.
 
Ray; I remember a thread from many moons ago , where a member called Bigballedox I think.... was asking how you remove the filters properly and without damaging the injector

I'd seen a video on you tube of a guy screwing a large wood screw into the top of the injector and effectively slide hammering it out. I didn't want to suggest it because .... well.... it may have worked but who knows if it was safe and or correct.

Has your instructor given you a class on overhauling / servicing an injector ? Can you school us or do a 'how to/ ? ....G.

I haven't taken the class yet where he gets in depth with the engine related stuff, that's the engine performance class that I will be taking next fall. I want to ask a question though. I did a compression test and my numbers were all over the place..some cylinders were 160 psi while two were 35-40 psi, do you think this can be because the vehicle wasn't warmed up or ? It seems strange especially since I had less than 1% leakage on the leak down test. Btw I got the injectors deal figured out. Ended up replacing two of em
 
........ are the two low cylinders on the same bank ? thinking the cam timing is out from moving the pulse wheel.

Was the motor guaranteed running when you bought it ? ....G.
 
........ are the two low cylinders on the same bank ? thinking the cam timing is out from moving the pulse wheel.

Was the motor guaranteed running when you bought it ? ....G.
the motor was from a job nkyard but they said it was running when they pulled it. I'd have to double-check the compression deal but I think the two lowest ones were on different banks.

But hey you won't believe it but I did a leak down test on cylinder 2 because it was the lowest one and I had no leakage at TDC, so I said heck with it and put the intake on and tried to start the car...and ah starts! It runs a little round but not bad. I'm getting a o2 code for running lean on both banks but I'm not sure if it's vacuum related or not because some of the stuff isn't xonnected, and my egr isnt tighten down all the way. But im just excited to hear it again
 
be careful about running an aluminium engine when it's lean .... overheating is a serious issue.

Try to fix as many issues before you let the engine temp's rise above the blue section .

Glad to hear it starts.... just the kind of encouragement you need to get it finished ....G.

AFK
 
be careful about running an aluminium engine when it's lean .... overheating is a serious issue.

Try to fix as many issues before you let the engine temp's rise above the blue section .

Glad to hear it starts.... just the kind of encouragement you need to get it finished ....G.

AFK
I hear ya. For whatever it's worth, the temp gauge was still c
pretty far towards the cold side and that was after looking getting it run like 10 minutes. But yeah I'm going to connect the rest of the vacuum and see what happens
 
I'm going to see about going to the junkyard today so that I can look at some vacuum. Specifically I want to know how the pcv system on the 2004-2005 is connected. I know the valve is in the rear valve cover, but I want to know where it connects to the intake. My original assumption was that it connects on the rear of the intake but if that's the case than it is pretty hard to put on because there is next to know room. Also, I'm wondering more because i seen that the hose on the 2004-2005 is much longer than in previous years. Furthermore, I have a inlet/outlet port on the passenger side of the intake right next to the egr vacuum solenoid that I still don't know what goes to. I posted a picture of it once and in that picture (from Google) there was a hose going from it to somewhere along the driver's side of the engine
 
.... the EGR takes exhaust gases from the rear header and bleeds them into the intake manifold. The EGR has a vacuum control pipe connected to the upper intake manifold,(after the TB) that operates it. It originally connected to a whole bunch of vacuum pipes at the end of one of your black plastic pipes on your 2.5L manifold. (the other black plastic pipe went to the brake servo) You will need to find pipes to fit your EGR... where ever it happens to be, considering the 2.5L / 3.0L parts you have installed.

The PCV system sucks blowby gases from the valve cover(s) and normally pipes them to the intake tract before the TB but after the MAF. Some guys put a catch can between the valve cover(s) and the intake..... some just vent to atmosphere. Do not plumb it directly to the intake after the TB because you **** up yer engine.

Sort these two items out first and possibly the servo vacuum feed too, then see what you have left .....G.
 
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