Blu's 1995 Contour SE 3L build thread

[blu_fuz]

Don't clutter this thread with "why is it taking so long" BS then.

I said what I said with a smile on my face as posted, just joking around. I am glad you can do what you do, and as fast as you can do it. Congratulations TRicker on your second 3L build :thumbsup:........



ANYWHO - I did paint the engine bay, the radiator support, AC drier, and coolant tank. Went and got all the fittings for installing the oil pressure sending unit as well. I put the AC system back together, and I also re-wrapped all the engine wire harness' and soldered in the 3L knock sensor.
I couldn't find any write up on which color wire goes with which, so I could use some clarification if anyone knows so I can fix it before the motor goes in.
I also go the "c"-clip out of the clutch line from the original TOB but the rest of the nipple is stuck in the fitting, how do I get that out ?

Is this correct:

Oil pressure gauge lines:

AC drier midnight red :drool: :

 

[BrApple]

Don't clutter this thread with "why is it taking so long" BS then.

lets stay on topic then.

Joe great work for never doing anything like this before. +1 for taking your time and not rushing and paying attention to all the details.

... and soldered in the 3L knock sensor.
I couldn't find any write up on which color wire goes with which, so I could use some clarification if anyone knows so I can fix it before the motor goes in.

as far as I remember the wires on the knock sensor don't matter. might drop a pm to aircougar as he would know for sure.

 

[blu_fuz]

I will PM aircougar for clarification. Hopefully I don't have to change it but now would be better than later


The connection of the TOB to the hard line in the car is still stuck. C-clip is out, but it won't pull out. Two vice grips and plenty of force and still nothing. Sprayed with PB blaster too.... :shrug: - can I heat that up without damaging the hardline?

 

[BrApple]

The connection of the TOB to the hard line in the car is still stuck. C-clip is out, but it won't pull out. Two vice grips and plenty of force and still nothing. Sprayed with PB blaster too.... :shrug: - can I heat that up without damaging the hardline?

how did you pull the old engine and trans if you couldn't get the clutch line off the tob?

 

[blu_fuz]

I cut the TOB line, before the connection with the hardline, with a hack saw because I couldn't get the c-clip out and it was holding me up.
The TOB is being replaced, so I knew I could just cut it to save time pulling the motor.

 

[BrApple]

I cut the TOB line, before the connection with the hardline, with a hack saw because I couldn't get the c-clip out and it was holding me up.
The TOB is being replaced, so I knew I could just cut it to save time pulling the motor.

ok that makes sense ... not sure why it wouldn't come off. once the clip is out the line should just slide off. but as I am sure you are aware there is an o-ring in there. so all I can think of at the moment it to twist it to help pop it free ....

 

[blu_fuz]

ok that makes sense ... not sure why it wouldn't come off. once the clip is out the line should just slide off. but as I am sure you are aware there is an o-ring in there. so all I can think of at the moment it to twist it to help pop it free ....

That's what I was thinking. I looked at the new TOB and saw the o-ring and figured it was just sticking. I vice gripped the TOB nub and the hardline and tried twisting. Nothing.... I took a wrench and tapped on the TOB nub pretty hard like I was opening a jar of pickles, vice gripped again, still nothing. I PB blasted it a lot when I was pulling the motor and figured everything would be loose once I got the c-clip out. I sprayed it again last night, hopefully it will come out. Is heat a bad idea?

 

[BrApple]

I would start with a small amount of heat. since its all metal at that end it should be ok ...

 

[todras]

A clip like the one that connects the hose to the TB attaches the other end. This is where it comes out of the master cylinder under the dash. Just get a new hose.

That hard line comes out of a rubber hose if you didn't know.

 

[blu_fuz]

^^^^ good to know - I will give it some heat and if it doesn't budge I will source a new line, and yes I saw that it goes from a hardline to a rubber hose. Do you think my '95 4cyl MTX will have the same line for the trans?

 

[blu_fuz]

I just got a PM from aircougar1 and he said it would probably be ok this way^^^ but he said he always tries to match up the striped yellow wires and so far so good on his swaps. He suggested I switch them and I will re-solder mine to be the way he suggested.

 

[Frosty]

I did have the rod checked and balanced at a local motor building shop. Everything is perfect and they installed the clevette bearings for me using new TTY bolts. I even have a warranty for it . Not kidding either. I didn't want to pay the extra $ for it but they ended up doing it for a little powder coating instead of $$$$.

You seriously went ahead and had it done anyways?? Wow, well good for you, at least you have the peace of mind with a warranty now. Personally I wouldn't have screwed around with that. With such low miles, there shouldn't have been any issue like BrApple and I said before. Do you plan on tracking it when you're done?

 

[todras]

You'll have to lay the lines side by side to see if it will fit.

 

[blu_fuz]

I got the damn thing out. Crazy! I think this was the most troublesum part on the entire build. Took the most time in the beginning, so I cut it and then another 3 hrs to finally get it apart.... :nonono:

 

[todras]

Never seen anything like that at all. Never had an issue with that in the least.

 

[ctmystique]

Glad you got it seperated. Those are some nasty pictures.
Did you have to resort to heat?

 

[blu_fuz]

Didn't go to heat for help. PB blasted it again 2 nights ago and let it sit. Hit it again with a wrench and it barely started to spin but not pull out. I used a flat head screwdriver and a hammer to pry it out from the hard line........

 

[blu_fuz]

THE MOTOR AND TRANS FINALLY MEET! They look good together, don't they?

THE MOTOR AND TRANS FINALLY MEET! They look good together, don't they?

Last night I pushed to get the motor off the stand and put at least the SVT flywheel, clutch, trans, and oil pressure sending unit. Did that and a little more.
It looks really nice with the yellow trans. I thought it was going to be too much yellow, but when I start covering some of it up with the starter, brackets, and mounts it is good.


Oil pressure sending unit bracket and plumbing:

And the 3L with the built trans bolted together:

 

[OB1]

Looks good to me, I also was thinking it might be to much yellow but I think in the car it will be just enough to pop!

 

[Newsvt]

If I had torn the motor down and removed the heads and replaced the crank bearings, I would have powder coat on everything. But because I didn't tear down that far and I couldn't and didn't want to carry my motor to the body shop and back for automotive paint, I opted not to paint it. You really can't see the block and heads at all when the motor is in the car so I didn't think it was worth the extra effort. I would have painted it high temp silver, and I even have the paint, but it would look OEM still but just cleaner.

I did have the rod checked and balanced at a local motor building shop. Everything is perfect and they installed the clevette bearings for me using new TTY bolts. I even have a warranty for it . Not kidding either. I didn't want to pay the extra $ for it but they ended up doing it for a little powder coating instead of $$$$.

So wouldnt this mean that the motor was torn down to the point where you could have painted everything if they pulled the rods and everything to check bearings?