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  • Brazing fuel rail - need some help

    So I know how to braze, not an issue. However what I would like to do is chop off the end of the 05 Escape rail and replace it with a new stainless steel cap. I can not find stainless steel pipe caps anywhere from what would appear to be a respectable company.

    I've debated about trying to just take the existing fuel rail end cap and just reuse it basically brazing the end back on after removing enough of the rail, but that just sounds like a Jerry rigging exercise.

    So that said has anyone completed this work before and knows where to source a new ss end cap?
    -Mike
    If you are wondering where the avatar came from look here... Link
    98 SVT Contour - HoK TruBlue|CF roof|#49/6535 DOB 3/25/97|550whp here I come|Follow my extremely slow 3L/turbo build here Link
    85 Camaro - 1969 350ci, 503BHP

    Owner - RIES PEFORMANCE

  • #2
    If you need SS pipe caps I would look for industrial supply houses.

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-s...ttings/=ies7y1
    '00' SVT Contour
    '87' VW ITA 16V Scirocco race car

    "Drag racing is for those drivers who can't brake and downshift at the same time."

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    • #3
      Good call! I totally blanked on checking McMaster-Carr. I also found some through Grainger. The fuel rail measures at 0.755" OD, but most likely is a metric size tube measuring at 19.1mm OD. I found a socket weld end cap through McMaster that should work. It's designed for 1/2" tube, as the drawing shows it should fit the fuel rail quite nicely. P/N is 44965K464, drawing below (http://www.mcmaster.com/LIBRARY/20111017/44965K464L.GIF). Now I just need the 56% silver solder and matching flux paste. Those only appear to be available through McMaster-Carr and Grainger as well. Sucks to buy as that silver solder is expensive stuff, but I only need a small portion of the smallest amount I can buy, which is 1 troy oz.

      -Mike
      If you are wondering where the avatar came from look here... Link
      98 SVT Contour - HoK TruBlue|CF roof|#49/6535 DOB 3/25/97|550whp here I come|Follow my extremely slow 3L/turbo build here Link
      85 Camaro - 1969 350ci, 503BHP

      Owner - RIES PEFORMANCE

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      • #4
        Originally posted by CSVT#49 View Post

        I've debated about trying to just take the existing fuel rail end cap and just reuse it basically brazing the end back on after removing enough of the rail, but that just sounds like a Jerry rigging exercise.
        It sounds like you have your solution but I thought I would throw this out there. On my Escape rail I did end up reusing the existing cap. I have no experience welding or brazing so I took it to someone who welds for a living, it cost 20 bucks.

        In order to save the cap I cut as close to it as possible then used a grinder to remove any excess pipe from the cap. I cleaned up the end of the rail that was cut and the guy had no trouble attaching it to the rail. It turned out looking good and so far no leaks or any problems with it.
        6450 of 6535
        6-16-98

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        • #5
          Originally posted by RFcsvt View Post
          It sounds like you have your solution but I thought I would throw this out there. On my Escape rail I did end up reusing the existing cap. I have no experience welding or brazing so I took it to someone who welds for a living, it cost 20 bucks.

          In order to save the cap I cut as close to it as possible then used a grinder to remove any excess pipe from the cap. I cleaned up the end of the rail that was cut and the guy had no trouble attaching it to the rail. It turned out looking good and so far no leaks or any problems with it.
          Yea I saw your thread during my searches. Looks like you when you cut the rail you also damaged the divider. I saw that and thanks to your post I didn't repeat it. However did you end up repairing the divider and reusing it? If not have you had any problems without it? I'm debating about whether I reinstall it when I braze the fuel rail.
          -Mike
          If you are wondering where the avatar came from look here... Link
          98 SVT Contour - HoK TruBlue|CF roof|#49/6535 DOB 3/25/97|550whp here I come|Follow my extremely slow 3L/turbo build here Link
          85 Camaro - 1969 350ci, 503BHP

          Owner - RIES PEFORMANCE

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          • #6
            Originally posted by CSVT#49 View Post
            Yea I saw your thread during my searches. Looks like you when you cut the rail you also damaged the divider. I saw that and thanks to your post I didn't repeat it. However did you end up repairing the divider and reusing it? If not have you had any problems without it? I'm debating about whether I reinstall it when I braze the fuel rail.
            Yeah I had no idea the divider was inside the rail. I left it out and have had no issues so far. I think I have somewhere close to 10-12k miles on it since the swap with no fuel rail related problems.
            6450 of 6535
            6-16-98

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            • #7
              Pics from my cutting job. You can see I was able to remove the divider from the fuel rail in tack. I'm most likely going to reuse it to assist with metering flow to the injector banks. Should see the new SS end cap by Wed... hopefully I figure something out for sourcing the 56% silver solder and black hi-temp paste flux by then too. I'm thinking the welding supply shop I use for my shielding gas should be able to help me out.

              Last edited by CSVT#49; 07-15-2012, 07:35 PM.
              -Mike
              If you are wondering where the avatar came from look here... Link
              98 SVT Contour - HoK TruBlue|CF roof|#49/6535 DOB 3/25/97|550whp here I come|Follow my extremely slow 3L/turbo build here Link
              85 Camaro - 1969 350ci, 503BHP

              Owner - RIES PEFORMANCE

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              • #8
                I replied to your PM. I picked up a large package of silver solder years back. I used only a few oz and then stopped building full 3L with custom rails in favor of the ported builds. You can borrow what you need so you don't have to buy a large kit and have extra. Usually I built return rails from those escape rails so I never had to cap them. I always used stainless swaglok fittings which fit right over the rail (brazed one end on) and left a nice threaded end on the other side so a custom bent 3/8 rail would screw on and run back to the FPR and then to the return line.
                Visit: 3LDuratec.com for a prepped 3L ready to drop in!

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Blackcoog View Post
                  I replied to your PM. I picked up a large package of silver solder years back. I used only a few oz and then stopped building full 3L with custom rails in favor of the ported builds. You can borrow what you need so you don't have to buy a large kit and have extra. Usually I built return rails from those escape rails so I never had to cap them. I always used stainless swaglok fittings which fit right over the rail (brazed one end on) and left a nice threaded end on the other side so a custom bent 3/8 rail would screw on and run back to the FPR and then to the return line.
                  Thanks for PM. I'm using a Aeromotive FPR with a return port built into it so I don't need the return on the fuel rail anymore. It's much cleaner.
                  -Mike
                  If you are wondering where the avatar came from look here... Link
                  98 SVT Contour - HoK TruBlue|CF roof|#49/6535 DOB 3/25/97|550whp here I come|Follow my extremely slow 3L/turbo build here Link
                  85 Camaro - 1969 350ci, 503BHP

                  Owner - RIES PEFORMANCE

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Blackcoog View Post
                    I replied to your PM. I picked up a large package of silver solder years back. I used only a few oz and then stopped building full 3L with custom rails in favor of the ported builds. You can borrow what you need so you don't have to buy a large kit and have extra. Usually I built return rails from those escape rails so I never had to cap them. I always used stainless swaglok fittings which fit right over the rail (brazed one end on) and left a nice threaded end on the other side so a custom bent 3/8 rail would screw on and run back to the FPR and then to the return line.
                    I have pics of this set up as its,whats on my 3l
                    Soon to be owner of the pudmobile
                    LOCATION 55020

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                    • #11
                      I am making a custom rail out of that one right now. I am going to have it welded by a welding shop even though I TIG weld. If you want we could probably produce two at once. I am having it true return style with 6an Bungs. I cracked the last piston on my rear bank (it may or may not be related but) I am playing it safe and doing a true return style setup.
                      95 SeVT 3.0L
                      Audi A4 From Hell

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by 2000ZxT View Post
                        I am making a custom rail out of that one right now. I am going to have it welded by a welding shop even though I TIG weld. If you want we could probably produce two at once. I am having it true return style with 6an Bungs. I cracked the last piston on my rear bank (it may or may not be related but) I am playing it safe and doing a true return style setup.
                        I'm good. I ended up removing the OEM end cap from the rail and reused it. I'm already running a -6 return from the FPR I'm using.
                        -Mike
                        If you are wondering where the avatar came from look here... Link
                        98 SVT Contour - HoK TruBlue|CF roof|#49/6535 DOB 3/25/97|550whp here I come|Follow my extremely slow 3L/turbo build here Link
                        85 Camaro - 1969 350ci, 503BHP

                        Owner - RIES PEFORMANCE

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                        • #13
                          Here some pics of the end cap I ended up using, which was the OEM one that was in the rail to begin with. Just cut the tube away from it and reused it.











                          Well thanks to Blackcoog and him willing to let me use his materials I was able to braze my fuel rail today. Cleaned up the end and polished it up. Turned out dang nice. We also pressure tested it too and no leaks.



                          -Mike
                          If you are wondering where the avatar came from look here... Link
                          98 SVT Contour - HoK TruBlue|CF roof|#49/6535 DOB 3/25/97|550whp here I come|Follow my extremely slow 3L/turbo build here Link
                          85 Camaro - 1969 350ci, 503BHP

                          Owner - RIES PEFORMANCE

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            No problem. The rail looked great. Sorry for almost launching an injector at you when we were pressure testing it.
                            Visit: 3LDuratec.com for a prepped 3L ready to drop in!

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                            • #15
                              Looks good mike
                              Soon to be owner of the pudmobile
                              LOCATION 55020

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