• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

New (old) 3L rebuild

So making good progress. Heads are on and timing is done. A question for those who have followed the shop manual procedure before - do you have to bleed down the lifters in order to install the rockers? I think last time we timed the engine after installing the whole cam assembly so I didn't have any trouble, but I can't seem to get the rockers in, even with the cam caps a little loose. I made a trial with one and this worked, but I want to make sure this is the right thing to do.

Any thoughts appreciated!
By "lifters", u must mean lash adjusters. (Click link and scroll down to the piece i'm holding).
http://contour.org/ceg-vb/forum/engi...ls-adios/page4
They can't be bled down before installation. They must be pumped up with oil or firm. Firm enough that you shouldn't be able to press them down with your fingers. ONLY THEN can you place them all in their slots and install the rollers & cams. Your timing procedure seems to be a bit off. You install cylinder head parts in this order.
Lash Adjusters-->Rollers-->Cams-->Cam Caps(loose, not tight). Look up member "SJon" timing writeup in the "how-to" forum. That should help immensely.
 
By "lifters", u must mean lash adjusters. (Click link and scroll down to the piece i'm holding).
http://contour.org/ceg-vb/forum/engi...ls-adios/page4
They can't be bled down before installation. They must be pumped up with oil or firm. Firm enough that you shouldn't be able to press them down with your fingers. ONLY THEN can you place them all in their slots and install the rollers & cams. Your timing procedure seems to be a bit off. You install cylinder head parts in this order.
Lash Adjusters-->Rollers-->Cams-->Cam Caps(loose, not tight). Look up member "SJon" timing writeup in the "how-to" forum. That should help immensely.

Yes - the hydraulic lash adjusters is what I'm referring to. They can be bled down and then they are pumped up by turning over the engine. From my looking around last night - they are not supposed to be fully 'pumped up' before installation.

I am following the factory service manual (from the CD) and I checked and doulbe checked - they specify Hydraulic Lash Adjuster then Cams, then Timing and then Roller/rockers.

I did it in the order your suggesting last time and will go to doing it that way if I need to.
 
Damn it - just lost my whole reply.

Yes I mean the hydraulic lash adjusters.
I have done it the way you describe and as shown in the how to before. I have been following the service manual (CD) during this assembly. The sequence is Hydraulic lash adjuster - cams - timing - rockers.

I noticed in your link you said the CD said to make sure they were pumped up, but all mine says is to apply assembly lube before dropping in the holes.
 
OK -Got it done - just a question of loosening the cam caps a little extra. The couple I bled will pump back up with the oil flowing. I will be sure to crank the engine for a good while before trying to fire it (as was the plan anyway).
 
Damn it - just lost my whole reply.

Yes I mean the hydraulic lash adjusters.
I have done it the way you describe and as shown in the how to before. I have been following the service manual (CD) during this assembly. The sequence is Hydraulic lash adjuster - cams - timing - rockers.

I noticed in your link you said the CD said to make sure they were pumped up, but all mine says is to apply assembly lube before dropping in the holes.
Really? I'm not exactly sure how that would work. Perhaps there's another way i've never heard of. The cam lobes press down on the rollers, which in turn rest on the lash adjusters. I ended up using the factory build manuals i got from neco. http://www.newcougar.org/forums/2-5l-duratec-performance/111611-2-5l-factory-build-manual.html. And it said to "pump them up before install". In other words, fill em all with oil before installation.
 
Really? I'm not exactly sure how that would work. Perhaps there's another way i've never heard of. The cam lobes press down on the rollers, which in turn rest on the lash adjusters. I ended up using the factory build manuals i got from neco. http://www.newcougar.org/forums/2-5l-duratec-performance/111611-2-5l-factory-build-manual.html. And it said to "pump them up before install". In other words, fill em all with oil before installation.

The way I just did it is actually quite nice. You install the timing equipment, but leave the tensioner springs compressed. Then you make sure all the cam caps are loose and install the rockers by lifting up the cam slighty (which was where I was having trouble, but once you loosen them off enough its a piece of cake). There's enough slack in the timing chains to do this. Then tighten down the caps and release the tensioner springs. Makes setting the timing fool proof because you can easily turn the cams to line up the marks (crosses fingers I don't have a problem).
 
The way I just did it is actually quite nice. You install the timing equipment, but leave the tensioner springs compressed. Then you make sure all the cam caps are loose and install the rockers by lifting up the cam slighty (which was where I was having trouble, but once you loosen them off enough its a piece of cake). There's enough slack in the timing chains to do this. Then tighten down the caps and release the tensioner springs. Makes setting the timing fool proof because you can easily turn the cams to line up the marks (crosses fingers I don't have a problem).

I pray so bud. Unfortunately i can't vouch for the way you just described. But if you feel confident about it, then you're probably good.
 
Just a little update since its been a while - Engine is back together. Last pieces to go back on are the valve covers (need to get the spark plug tube gaskets - don't have any in the 3 valve cover gasket kits I had lying around), rear main seal, crank pulley and water and power steering pumps.

Should be warm enough in a couple of weeks to think about dropping it back in the car!
 
So hopefully some people are still checking in here. Engine is all but ready to go. Having trouble finding 2 elements at the moment.
1. the coolant flange that inserts into the block. Mine is all bitten up from the machinist removing it so need to replace. Nowhere seems to be able to find a part number. Anyone have a suggestion? (Part number for posterity 2S7Z-8A505-AA)
2. for the time being, I want to just delete the oil cooler. I will see how temps run and decide whether to put something back later. So does someone have the short filter stud? This I think I'll be able to get at a junk yard, but figured I'd throw it out and see if someone had one on hand. (If someone can confirm, I think this is the insert F1AZ-6890-A).

Also - can't remember whether I can put the alternator on before dropping the motor back in - memory says no. Can someone confirm - would love to not have to that under the car.
 
Last edited:
So hopefully some people are still checking in here. Engine is all but ready to go. Having trouble finding 2 elements at the moment.
1. the coolant flange that inserts into the block. Mine is all bitten up from the machinist removing it so need to replace. Nowhere seems to be able to find a part number. Anyone have a suggestion? (Part number for posterity 2S7Z-8A505-AA)
2. for the time being, I want to just delete the oil cooler. I will see how temps run and decide whether to put something back later. So does someone have the short filter stud? This I think I'll be able to get at a junk yard, but figured I'd throw it out and see if someone had one on hand. (If someone can confirm, I think this is the insert F1AZ-6890-A).

Also - can't remember whether I can put the alternator on before dropping the motor back in - memory says no. Can someone confirm - would love to not have to that under the car.


Good to see some progress. I've no idea what the part number for that flange is.I'd've suggested you get one from the jy. But them things are a ***** to get out. And yes, you can grab the oil filter stud from any 2.5 tour. As for the alternator, yes you can install before dropping it in. It won't be a hinderance.
 
OK Guys - long time, no progress, but the motor is outside and mated to the trans. i broke the coolant flange between the heads by being a moron and that has stopped progress for the last couple of months. I got a replacement (2 actually) from an MPV, but I need help with the routing. On the MPV the smaller pipe has a 90 degree bend. I tried looking back through my disassembly photos, but I don't have a clear view of the flange in any of them. Does the small outlet just go to the oil cooler? Can I just block it off?
I noticed while in the junk yard that the newer ones didn't even have this smaller outlet, but they also only had 1 sensor port. I pulled one of those too, but since I already had to tee one of the 2 on the original, I'd prefer to keep 2 sensor ports.
Thoughts?
 
Does the small outlet just go to the oil cooler? Can I just block it off?....Thoughts?


Heywood; on my car , the small outlet on that water head link assembly goes to the interior water heater matrix.

Maybe the MPV crossover has a 90* elbow because the heater matrix is higher up than the contour matrix so the pipe routing is slightly different. ....G.
 
Thanks Guys, I will snap a pic so you can see what I'm talking about, but I am pretty sure its the heater core as you mention Gorman. If I don't care about the HVAC, can I just block off anyway?
 
Wow I ma following this build and I've gotta be honest, Its making me wanna do my own build also.. problem is I KNOW i don't have the time or expertise to do stuff like this... :( ashame I coudl save ALOT of money..

I wanna go 3l hybrid.
 
IT'S ALIVE!!!

Runs like crap on factory tune and a small vacuum leak, but it started on the weekend!
 
Already? It has only been 4 years... lol. Good job, I know the pain of a build but the reward is awesome.


It's actually been 5, not that I'm counting! (Started this before I had my son who is now in primary school!)

Too bad really - there are a lot of rotten hoses and such. It seems to be running smoother now and no CELs. Will bleed the clutch and see if I can move it under its own steam here shortly.
 
Yes!!! It is running and moving - I have driven it around the block a couple of times even! This weekend I put the front grille on and attached the hood. Getting more excited about taking this thing to a track!
 
Back
Top