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Oil accumulator epc valve

B

Beans

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Joined
May 4, 2006
Messages
6,758
Location
Plymouth,MI
Going to be purchasing a accusump soon. What psi valve makes the most sense? This is what psi the accusump turns on to add pressure...They come in
20-25psi
35-40psi
55-60psi ( way too much )

Is 20-25 too low for the duratec?
 
Been wondering about this myself, as I have a system sitting on the shelf, awaiting install in one of my track cars, so I sent an email to Canton, got back a reply asking me to call one of their apps engineers named Bob.

Bob had some nice suggestions, I told him about the hot oil pressure ranges of our V6 engines and he suggested the 24-273 - ACCUSUMP EPC VALVE 35-40 PSI kit, which opens the accumulator dump valve at 36 to 37 psi. He felt that the high (55 to 60 psi) kit would be cycling open too often, and the low kit (20 to 25 psi) would open to late to protect the engine.

He also offered some great suggestions, and explained the operation of the accumulator valve.

The EPC valve, when opened by the low pressure switch, allows fast dump of the accumulator into the oiling system, but, due to its design, even when closed, allows oil to flow from the engine into the accumulator to keep the accumulator charged, they say it "empties fast but fills slow." This keeps the refilling oil flow from straining the engine oiling system, because the normal (unrestricted) path into the accumulator would offer less resistance than the engine itself, and this might starve the engine during accumulator refill.

He suggested using the toggle switch to control the EPC valve, and that you would leave the EPC valve turned off in the pits and even during a warmup lap to keep the accumulator charged, then close the switch and enable the EPC system when you start to race.

He also suggested wiring a dash light, like a shift light, across the EPC solenoid valve so it will light when the EPC valve opens to dump the accumulator. This will allow you to easily see what sorts of behavior are causing your oil sump and pump to lose pressure; left turns, right turns, always lose pressure in turn three.... He suggested using an incandescent lamp, as LED lamps may have a short life absorbing the inductive kick from the EPC solenoid valve coil.

Bob said he's been writing a tech note and meaning to get it up on the web site, I encouraged him to finish it, as this isn't the first time I've heard this question.
 
Oh wow this thread went through, nice tapatalk.

gmorrell said:
Been wondering about this myself, as I have a system sitting on the shelf, awaiting install in one of my track cars, so I sent an email to Canton, got back a reply asking me to call one of their apps engineers named Bob.

Bob had some nice suggestions, I told him about the hot oil pressure ranges of our V6 engines and he suggested the 24-273 - ACCUSUMP EPC VALVE 35-40 PSI kit, which opens the accumulator dump valve at 36 to 37 psi. He felt that the high (55 to 60 psi) kit would be cycling open too often, and the low kit (20 to 25 psi) would open to late to protect the engine.
Click to expand...

Great that's basically my answer!

gmorrell said:
He also offered some great suggestions, and explained the operation of the accumulator valve.

He suggested using the toggle switch to control the EPC valve, and that you would leave the EPC valve turned off in the pits and even during a warmup lap to keep the accumulator charged, then close the switch and enable the EPC system when you start to race.
Click to expand...
Hmm... Really this one basically mean dry starts. Being at the track i thought this would have been one of the biggest pros to the entire system. Sitting in staging ready to go. Flip toggle. Pressure up. Crank. Fire. Get idle. Flip switch. Move out of staging the tank refills before take off....

gmorrell said:
He also suggested wiring a dash light, like a shift light, across the EPC solenoid valve so it will light when the EPC valve opens to dump the accumulator. This will allow you to easily see what sorts of behavior are causing your oil sump and pump to lose pressure; left turns, right turns, always lose pressure in turn three.... He suggested using an incandescent lamp, as LED lamps may have a short life absorbing the inductive kick from the EPC solenoid valve coil.
Click to expand...
This is a good idea. Really good if you want to monitor overuse, or under use for that matter. But at the same time i kinda don't care as long as it IS opening when the EPC valve is suppose to.


gmorrell said:
Bob said he's been writing a tech note and meaning to get it up on the web site, I encouraged him to finish it, as this isn't the first time I've heard this question.
Click to expand...
Yeah! What the hell. I looked all over the place for options, and the whole point of the thing is to be an insurance policy to save your engine.. It's not going to work correctly if you don't have it setup correctly. Which i would like to do, obviously.

Thanks for contributing.

What size are you running? i was going to go with 3
 
These are the oil pressure -vs- RPM numbers I was looking for from an old post of mine.

Hot oil pressure -vs- RPM:
(coolant and oil at 210F)
RPM psi
1000 25
1500 37
2000 48
3000 62
4000 65
5000 65

These better validate the selection of the 35 to 40 psi range of the Accusump EPC valve setting. For normal driving, and even track work, having the EPC cut in and open the accumulator at about 37psi would be just about right. If you're running the car hard, the engine shouldn't drop much below 3,000 RPM, and oil pressure there should be holding at 60 psi unless something goes wrong and pressure drops, and then the Accusump should open and cover up a pressure sag.

To answer your question, I have a 3Qt EPC system, haven't decided which car it's going on yet.
 
BrApple said:
You did post 2 times. It looks like posts with links require approval at this time.
Click to expand...

OK, that explains why I couldn't see my post this morning in Mad Dog's power steering pump thread. Didn't see any message that the post was held for approval, it just goes away.
 
My "Kit" is on the way.

I'm still indecisive to where i want this plumbed into the block. I am opposed to the oil filter area because of my oil cooler/themostat setup, so thats out of the question. SO what else do i have? This Lower plug. I think that it might be 3/8 NPT... Isnt that going to be a restriction considering the accusump is 1/2"????

3Lbuild108.jpg


OR

I could do it like CSVT #49, which is 1/2" NPT

http://contour.org/ceg-vb/forum/eng...ved-let-the-build-begin?p=1445941#post1445941


Is there any other options???
 
You know what the right way is ;) Just do it. That port feeds the main bearings, which is right where you want that pressurized oil going.
 
They all feed to the main bearings? So neither is a wrong way. That rear option is going to make me pull my alternator, belt and do all sorts of shenanigans to make it work. It is 1/2" which is appealing, but i think i'll add it in the front.

but god all mighty i don't want to pull this motor, it is so packed in there now with the supercharger. It would take a week to get it out....ultimately it might be inevitable on the stock bottom end, but not anytime soon.
 
I got all my kit and i got a plan... I decided on running a active bulb for when the accumulator dumps. I still don't quite understand why i can't use a LED though
 
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