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Replaced IMRC rod

MadDog

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Jul 27, 2012
Messages
618
Location
Augusta, GA
On the assumption that this might help anyone, I was able to replace the IMRC rod (part 9S523) that actuates the butterfly valves when the IMRC triggers. I did this without removing the intake manifolds.
First you need to remove the air box, accordion, throttle body and cables. Then put some vaseline on your fingertips so you can set one of the new plastic grommets (9F955) on your fingertip without having to hold it. Put the grommet in the fitting that is closest to the front first. Angle your finger so the sides of the grommet match the square profile of the fitting. You can get 3 of the 4 sides into the fitting manually, but then I had to use a dental pick to push the fourth one into place.

Once all 4 tabes are in place, force the grommet firmly in. The fitting closest to the firewall is more of a pain. This time, the grommet is facing away from you and you have to snap it in towards you. Again using some vaseline and putting the grommet on your index finger, snake your finger around the spring actuator so the grommet is about in the correct facing. use a dental pick to nudge 3 tabs into place. Push the grommet in slightly so the 3 tabs are partially in the fitting, then use a curved dental pick to get the fourth leg into place. Finally, force the grommet in all the way.

Now you have to put the rod in. There would be nothing worse than getting this far and dropping the part, so I tied a piece of thread to the bar. That way, if I dropped it, I could find it and fish it out.

Carefully note the orientation of the rod. I can send anyone the Ford manual picture if you want it. Snap the end into the fitting closest to the front of the car. Thats pretty easy and helps to prevent dropping the piece. Then, fit the other end in.

Put everything back together making sure not to drop any bolts. It took me about 2 hours, but I am a newb at this. I have been meaning to do this for years but havnt been brave enough until now.

Mad Dog
 
I forgot how good it felt when the secondaries opened. Instead the car would stumble a bit. Until now. : )

This would be wayyyyy easier if you have the intake manifolds off, but I havnt gotten that brave yet.

With 14 years and 243,000 miles, I have plenty more to fix and upgrade…..

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
Without this site, I would never tried any of the things I have fixed or replaced:

replaced water pump and main radiator line
replaced sparkplugs and did a compression test
replace IAC
removed center console for cleaning
removed all the seats for cleaning
replaced 1 rear speaker
remove and repair rear bumper cover
paint repair on rusted section
replaced rear stuts, springs, control arm, swaybar links
replaced front struts, springs, LCA, swaybar links
replace front brake pads
replaced IMRC rod
soon to replace the PS pump return line

The support of people here enables others to learn. I am grateful for the help I have received from many people.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
quick question, Does this matter on what year SVT??? because looking at my 2000 SVT compared to my 99 the setup for the egr/vacum lines are a SLIGHT bit different and without being able to really "look" at the IMRC rod on the 99 SVT without taking off the UIM/LIM and swapping the 2000 SVT over.. So basically send me the diagram from ford you have lol
 
Sorry to post this here, feel free to move it.. But Maddog.. Did you have any CEL with the 2ndaries not opening?? I feel like my car is doing the same stuff, I can SOMETIMES get them to open at half-throttle. but on the top-end of the motor it just feels bogged/slow

Sometimes when it's first started I can get a great pull out of 1st, but I run through 2nd/3rd and it just falls on it's face.. I know I have a minor vac leak, but this is CLEARLY a secondary issue so I am tryin to see if Maddog can confirm his was "feeling" the same way mine is.. to give an example, i was along side a normal 99ish Chevy Caviler and he was able to pull on me even in 3 gear WOT.. I was like NO F*%ING WAY something has GOT to be up with this... I KNOW that caviler was stock..

I m not getting ANY CEL, just almost like a loss of power once the secondaries are suppose to open up.. even coming off the throttle and rolling back into it half-throttle trying to FORCE them open and it's hit and miss.. Basically unless I just started the car for the 1st time that day adn only get 1 good pull out of 1st gear will the secondaries fully open.. so Im just trying to get an idea if this is what MADDOG was experiencing..
 
I suspect, but cannot prove that there might be 2 slightly different shaped IMRC rods. I have another one on hand and I can take a pic if you like. However, if you have an E1, the rod should be the as the one I used for my 2000 CSVT.

As for me, I did not have any CEL. The IMRC was working fine, but with the rod out, the secondaries did not open. If you are not sure, the best thing is to take a look to see if you can see the linking rod. I can post a pic where to look if you are unsure. It may be that the secondaries are gummed up, or prevented from opening easily even if the rod is there, or the IMRC could be failing.

Mad Dog
 
I do believe if the rod fall out and the bank 2 stays closed there will be no CEL. However if the rod falls out when its open, it will remain open. This caused a CEL for a P0420, iircc on the one 99 that I had.
 
Cool, once I get a day off finally Im going to set them side by side and take another look, I really wanna replace all the vac lines, hoses, clean UIM/LIM, TB, but Im in PA, and it's cold and I work 50+hrs weekly. :(

So I was hoping I could atleast confirm that everything is working properly, it just needs a good cleaning... I'll update once I know, the car did throw a code finally P174... This is because the UIM Vav lines are held into the UIM by like "gooey stuff" So like, no grommet/gasket, just both lines shoved into the UIM and sticky crap spooged around it to "seal" it....so I sound like a spooling turbo when I roll into it sometimes.. :(
 
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