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3L Hybrid Rebuild

CLASSVT

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
May 2, 2003
Messages
736
Location
Fort Wayne, In
Ok, spending about $6k on having my 3L Hybrid rebuilt, again. Back in 2007 one of the pistons shattered and had to have it rebuilt. Happened again recently. It's worth putting the money into the car because I've spent way too much time and money on it, and frankly, I can't get anything close to this cool of a car for $6k. Plus with all of the upgrades it's worth it to me.

So, question is what internals should I beef up to keep from having to rebuild in another 10 years? I'm already going for forged pistons. Anything else a weak spot that I should be aware of?
 
I think most would install forged pistons and rods. CSVT#49 also had oil squirters installed in his block for his turbo built, iirc. Make sure to use a good set of quality bearings also on the rebuild of course.
 
.... was reading a discussion about ARP studs and the pro's and cons ... mostly the cost.

Having a hybrid and higher compression ... could be just the excuse to have the superior clamping capabilities of the 253 4701 kit ...G.

IIrc Beans could tell you where to get the bottom end studs from .. I know he wanted them for his last build not sure if he's got some now.
 
Do I recall Clevite being the best bearing choice?

On those studs, I see them on Summit's website. Pardon my ignorance, but there are bottom end studs that may need upgraded too? I'm not super technical on this stuff. Benefits of the upgraded studs? More or less making a list for this rebuild. Thanks!

Also, part numbers for the forged rods I should look for?
 
... number one ... studs are re-usable, two, the studs are designed to take the abuse you are going to dish out.

I watched a turbo'd 5 cylinder Volvo engine (same 2.5l focus engine) having its' heads torqued down then loosened off and then re-torqued (to compress the head gasket), you can't do that with OEM head studs. Ask Crewchiefpro about this ... he'll know all about why professional engine builders do this.

Some forged con rods are supplied with ARP studs, depending on where you get your deal. The rest of the bottom end studs may still be supplied by one of the guys on this forum ... G.
 
Forged rods and pistons with heavy duty wrist pins. Bearing brands are not important, as long as oil get where it is supposed to be they don't touch anything. None are stronger than the other, or better. ARP head studs and main studs if you want to be bullet proof. The ability to retorque head bolts is very important. After a few heat cycles it is important to verify the clamping loads are at spec.

​I went with Weisco pistons and the K1 Rods. Weisco has everything and I talked to Vic. I don't know part numbers but he can look up my info if you are running a turbo.

What about the trans? Have you done anything to it?

​I feel the same way you do, where else can you find a car this fun for very little money. Properly built it will survive about anything.
 
It's not turbo, but I want to be able to drive it like I stole it, and not worry about anything. The transmission is stock, other than a Fidanza flywheel, which isn't really the transmission I know. But I've never had any issues with the transmission other than if trying to shift too quickly into third.

So forged pistons, rods, and heavy duty wrist pins. Then ARP head studs and main studs. Does that basically cover it?
 
You need both forged rods, and pistons. That will about cover the rotating assembly. ARP studs will help keep it all sealed. Transmission may turn into the weak point after all that.
 
It's not turbo, but I want to be able to drive it like I stole it, and not worry about anything.

Glad you're being realistic.... if you don't have an air cooled oil cooler, then you should definitely install one...... you don't want to ruin all those nice engine parts with over heated oil.

I have an oil cooler and since installing it, my water temperature has been rock solid....G.
 
I am not in CA. I have a black SVT and I'm in Indiana. Not sure why my signature doesn't show up anymore. It's definitely a hybrid. I had it built back in 2003 originally, then broke a piston in 2007. Rebuilt, and now here I am again.

I will never track the car, so repeated hard runs aren't likely at all. I will merely be driving on public roads and doing my best to raise hell without putting anyone in danger. So, not sure if the oil cooler is in the forecast for now, but definitely something to think about.

Thanks for everyone's help though! Let me know if there is anything else I should consider.
 
Does anyone have a resource for the forged rods? The shop is going to look around but wasn't sure if they had a source.
 
I went ahead and ordered from Nautilus. Got the K1 rods and an ARP kit. I didn't realize BurritaSVT was the owner there. Had a good long talk about CSVT's, etc. Thanks for everyone's help!
 
.... did he advise forged pistons or stick with the stock items ?


Was the stud kit just head or top and bottom studs ? ....G.
 
I just got the forged rods and bottom studs. He said since it's NA the top wouldn't be quite as crucial to get the top. I was already getting forged pistons from another source, but now my shop is asking me to ask him if he has a source for forged pistons, since the source they found is so expensive (about $1100). I'm about to call him.
 
He'll get you a set of Diamond Racing pistons as he did for me.

Oil squirters are boss by the way. You'd have to send your block to the shop in Westland, MI to have the work done though. Assuming they'd still do it. They had it programmed in a CNC machine to drill exactly where it's needed and then they install the squirters. Might be over kill for a non-turbo car, but it will help.

Person I worked with, assuming he is still there is...

Chris Gesek, Kinetic Racing Engines, (734) 595-7593
http://kineticracingparts.com

overviewsquirter.jpg


closeupsquirter.jpg


Also I didn't see anyone mention an oil reservoir. Those are a engine life saver. Pre-lubricating your engine before every start with pressurized oil... that will extend the life of your engine. Not to mention save it in the event you blow something. It might just give you another few seconds to shut the car down. Search Accusump oil reservoirs.
 
Thanks! I do remember the Accusump oil accumulators from back in the day, but I seem to recall them being discontinued. The oil squirters look awesome, but I'm definitely not sending my block out on this build.

Hoping what I have will make my motor somewhat bullet-proof. Getting the coated forged Diamond pistons, forged rods, ARP lower stud kit, the king rod bearing kit, and the higher-flow oil pump.
 
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