65mm How-To

[Harrry]

Optimizing A 65mm Throttle Body​

Items:
1.Hack saw
2.Screw driver
3.Dremel—Cutting disks
4.Thread locker (blue or red)
5. Steel Bar ½ x 1/8th
6. 1996-2004 mustang GT throttle body (crown vics work but it has a different linkage)

Here i have written a walk through on how to modify a stock mustang gt throttle body to fit a svt 2.5L application.
Time: 2-3 hours. (Based on skill and tools that are available to you)


Now the first thing we need to do is remove the TPS if one is installed. Follow this link for the how-to.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=50388

Now looking at your throttle body, the first thing we need to do is remove the screws that hold the plate and bracket in place.
1. Now you’re going to take your Dremel with cutting disks and grind down the flattened screws sticking out the back throttle body shaft. So it should look like this.

We do this because it makes it much easier to remove the screws due to the crimped threads. Most people skip this step and try to remove the screws, resulting with stripped screws. Leaving them having to drill them out. Once both screws have been cut down continue to the next step.

2. Now you’re going to flip the throttle body over. Press firmly with a correct size screw driver bit and twist. If your tip feels loose or too big, try to find one that best fits because you might strip the screw.

3. Once you removed both screws it should look like this.

4.Now holding the throttle body with one hand, twist the linkage so the throttle body goes WOT. (Wide Open Throttle).Once you do that, stick your hand into the housing and pull forward the plate.

5.Once you pull the plate out, your throttle body should look like this.

6. Next step we are going to pull out the linkage. MAKE SURE YOU REMOVED YOUR TPS ALREADY!!

 

[Harrry]

7. Now that you pulled the linkage out. As seen in this photo. Remove the spring and place it in a safe location. We will need it, when we reinstall the throttle body again.

8. Now we must modify the linkage. Here I am pointing with my finger at the bar we will be removing. Take your dremel or hack saw and remove this piece.

End result should look like this.

9. Now we take the dremel again and remove this second bar.

End result should be this.

10. Now that both pieces are cut, the linkage should look like this.

Now we move onto the throttle body housing.
11.Here we need to cut a 10mm by 8mm square. We do this...by using a hack saw or a Dremel. Start cutting away.

 

[Harrry]

Once we are done with that. We are going to test the throttle linkage with the throttle body.
11. So grab the linkage and slide it into the housing.

Here we want to slide it all the way in.

12. Here we will rotate the linkage making sure the spring hook clears the throttle body

If it does not clear...go back and cut away more material from the throttle body housing.
Here i am showing you another linkage. It is from an 04 model ford mustang. It looks different..very slightly...but it's components are identical. So if people either purchase one of these 2 models they will still be able to follow this. Knowing they both can be used.
13.Here is the hole where the crimped throttle cable attaches too. In this situation. you would need to enlarge this to help the crimped end fit into place. In this picture you will see i grinded it out a bit. I used a dremel bit. But you can also use a drill bit in a rotating manor to remove material also.

Here is a comparison between a stock hole and a modified one.

 

[Harrry]

Now if you wish to OPTIMIZE the TB Then continue here. If you wish to skip this part then skip to stage 16.
14.Now we need to remove the other half of the shaft.

15. Here I used the hack saw(you can use the dremel). Here we are going to make 2 cuts, to remove half of the bar. Here I have shown where the 2 cuts will be done (make sure to cut away the side where there are indentations) This is where the screws enter the shaft.

Once cut the shaft should look like this.

So the only side of the shaft remaining would be this side. The threaded side.

16. Once that is done. We need to put the throttle body together! Take the spring and place it onto the the throttle bracket. Looking like this.

17. Once you slide it on...make sure the flat plastic is facing the tb housing! Also make sure the throttle spring attaches to the hook. I am pointing at the 2 areas that are important.

18. take the bracket and slide it half way into place inside the TB.

 

[Harrry]

19. Once you slide the bracket inside, we are going to need to make sure the spring lever enters the canal. Which will allow us to spin the bracket to it’s correct position. This also creates tension which helps push back the gas pedal when you let off.

Once it’s in it should look like this.

Now DO NOT PUSH THE BRACKET ALL THE WAY IN. Allow some room for the bracket to rotate. Here we will ROTATE THE BRACKET 2 (TWO) times.

20. Once you rotate it 2 times. Push the bracket in. You will be able to release the bracket onto the tb in this position!

21. Once in this postion. We need to double check 1 important thing. The Spring lever in some occasions are a bit to big. Causing the tb to not rotate…causing the spring lever to hit the TB.

22. If this is not occurring for you then skip this part. If this is happening, then use your dremel or hack saw to cut a bit off. Very simple.

This is how it should look.

 

[Harrry]

Now we are ready to put in the plate and put the screws in. Here I have mine placed in a vise. You can use your hands if you wish. (I needed an extra hand to take pictures )
23. Rotate the bracket forward so it will look like this.

Then it should be turned till it’s horizontal

This will allow you to slip in the tb plate. So hold it with the M facing at the top. The metal tabs should be protruding from the underside of the tb plate.

24. With the M going in last, slide the plate into the tb housing and into the bracket.

25. Once you push in into place, it should be stop there. The protruding tabs is what stops the plate into position. Now release the tb bracket and the tb would close completely.

The back side.

26. Now we use a thread locker. In this picture I had my blue. Which is fine, or you can use red. Which is what I always use. Both are perfectly fine.

 

[Harrry]

26. Now we use a thread locker. In this picture I had my blue. Which is fine, or you can use red. Which is what I always use. Both are perfectly fine.
Place thread locker on both screws

Now install them.

27. Now lift the tb up and look at a complete Customized 65mm tb. Rotate the bracket!! Make sure it closes perfectly. Make sure no light is shining in around the edges.

If light is showing, then go back and readjust the plate again. If the plate closes and is sticking, then go back and readjust the plate by losing the bolts. It’s sometimes a trial and error process.


Now we must make the stopping plate.
Here we will purchase a 1/2 inch steel bar from home depot.
Measure 1 inch in length, mark it and then use your vise to clamp it into position like so.

Now use your hands and bend the plate 90 degrees. To make it a complete 90 degree bend,

use a hammer and bang the plate against the vise. So it should look like this now.

Now we need to make a cut. Measure and mark at 11/16th of an inch from the back of the plate and cut at that point. You can see my measurements of it here.

Now we need to cut a hole inside the stopping plate so we can bolt it onto the throttle body itself when we install it. Take the plate and place it in a vice. Use a 1/8th drill bit

Now take a drill and drill a hole into the stopping plate.

Once it’s drilled. YOUR DONE!!

 

[Harrry]

It should look like this

Time to install 

 

[CSVT#49]

Harry awesome write up! Thanks for doing this. However I'll note one thing I noticed... the screws in the following pictures (step 26/27) show the screws installed backwards on the throttle plate as opposed to when the first came out in step 2... is that right? I wouldn't think so, but I wanted to confirm with you.

Now install them.

 

[Harrry]

Harry awesome write up! Thanks for doing this. However I'll note one thing I noticed... the screws in the following pictures (step 26/27) show the screws installed backwards on the throttle plate as opposed to when the first came out in step 2... is that right? I wouldn't think so, but I wanted to confirm with you.

First, thanks for the compliment!

The linkage is supposed to be upside down. Because the 65mm tb bracket works for a left side linkage. Since our cars linkage is right sided, the linkage has to be rotated. Causing the screws to be facing backwards instead of forwards.

I gave this write up to my neighbor. He sat and did the whole throttle body by himself. And he knows nothing about cars.

 

[Beans]

Ballin, might be able to do this tomorrow

One question, what do you use for a gasket?

 

[starjammir]

On the SVT upper it goes, upper-svt gasket-mustang gt gasket-tb.

 

[TourEnvy]

The stopping plate is held on by a bolt used to secure the TB to the manifold, correct? So it would be placed at the same time the TB is installed?

 

[Harrry]

The stopping plate is held on by a bolt used to secure the TB to the manifold, correct? So it would be placed at the same time the TB is installed?

Yes that is correct!

 

[Harrry]

On the SVT upper it goes, upper-svt gasket-mustang gt gasket-tb.

i've always used the svt gasket. Thats what i have recommended to all when installing these. You can use the mustang gasket along with the svt if you want.

But the only time i needed to use the mustang gasket with the svt gasket was when i used the crown Victorian throttle body!

 

[Brokendown]

Awesome write up Harrry. It's so detailed, I'll have my girlfriend do it as her first car project! Just kidding...I wouldn't trust her with a dremel...But thank you so much!

 

[TRicker]

:nonono: CEG: making easy things hard since the beginning of time......

 

[Harrry]

:nonono: CEG: making easy things hard since the beginning of time......

Making what hard? This how-to is hard? Since the svt bracket in the 65mm tb has been shown. Thanks to the man---Demonsvt which was the first to do the svt bracket in the 65mm tb back in 2001.

A select few have ever focused in using the 65mm tb only. Which is what i set time to accomplish. Now which one is better to use? It's up to the people to decide. The options are there, Personally i like leaving my stock svt parts unmolested and not hacked up. Just in case i ever wanted to put my car back to stock.

 

[CSVT#49]

The linkage is supposed to be upside down. Because the 65mm tb bracket works for a left side linkage. Since our cars linkage is right sided, the linkage has to be rotated. Causing the screws to be facing backwards instead of forwards.

Harry - Now that I am actually to the point of doing this modification with a aftermarket 75mm stang TB... wouldn't it be possible to just flip the cable setup on the car to run this TB on the left side like it does on the Mustangs rather then go through all this work of switching it? I'm tempted to go to a junk yard to inspect the installation on a Mustang to see if it is something that can be replicated on the Contour. However I figured you may be able to provide some insight given how much time and effort you put into this how-to. Let me know! Thanks.

 

[hcl]

I use an aftermarket F-150 75mm TB on my car. It's almost a direct swap. The direction is the same as SVT TB. No need to change the linkage. Just need to open up the UIM or use a spacer. And drill out the cable linkage notch.