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Vortech build

I know removing the injectors is easy but every time I remove my uim something breaks. Joey @ NPG said he could make me a forced induction base tune for $350. It would run the 42#s and the 85mm maf that came with the kit.
 
I know I wouldn't use that mail order tune permanently. Just to get the car running with everything on it then head to the dyno.
 
I had this exact problem.

I paid $75 from dreamscience for a MAP with my FI parts loaded.

Cheap, for peace of mind that i can get my car prepped and driven to them safely..... G.
 
Looks good job. How's it running? Out of curiosity what kind of intake air temps are you getting?

Mine is running drove it a few weekends ago, still not into boost, still needs more tuning.
 
Runs fine now. Had a major idling problem yesterday and was running piss rich on takeoff and anything under 2k. I didn't like where the maf was sitting anyway so I moved it right up to the plastic pipe. Idles fine now but still running rich on takeoff. Its hot here so I get up to 150F if I sit idle for awhile.
 
I haven't tuned it yet so I'm running the fmu with my stock 19#. At full throttle up to 5200 rpm I'm still running mid 12 on the wideband with no pinging. Spikes at 6lbs
 
Wow! Thats very rich, be careful that rich can be dangrous too, fuel can leak down into the oil. My A/F is really good but haven't gotten into boost yet like i said.

Mine starts like **** as is as well, but it should be corrected next revision... My air temp got to around 120F after driving around i turn on the intercooler and it goes down to 68F!!!! within seconds! But i have my intake in the fender as well.

Is the clutch holding? We have the same one... lol, i'm still nervous about that.
 
I don't think it's that rich, its not smoking black at all. Regardless I'm sure it's maf related. I originally did a CAI but it felt like I lost power but again this thing is so finicky. Also having issues with the bypass valve, it works when it wants. Tried 3 different vacuum routing same difference. Overall it's pretty good being I've only been boosting 2 days. Just needs more tickering.
 
Just thought of something. How are you monitoring your intake air temp after the s/c? The IAT sensor mounts before.
 
Finally finished and running

congrat's on your progress.

How are you monitoring your intake air temp after the s/c? The IAT sensor mounts before

interested in this too ..... also is it better to have your IAT sensor before or after head unit. ?

Wondering if it is better to tell the MAP what the true temp is or what it was before compression.... G.
 
Well the hotter your IAT sensor reads the more timing it pulls. It would make sense to have the pcm read actual air intake temp but I'm sure Vortech put it before boost for a reason.
 
Mine is mounted at the intercooler. I think it's ideal to have it as close as to the air entering the engine as possible, especially after being compressed air i bet that temp will be much warmer...

I was suspecting my bypass valve giving me issues, I'll have to test it today. Where are you pulling vacuum for it? I think mine is at the EGR vaccum line cluster.
 
OH BEANS YOU IDIOT. YOU PUT THE BY PASS VALVE ON BACKWARD NO WONDER!!!!

I just got another revision from my tuner THIS should be good.
 
LOL Did you really have the valve backwards? I have it teed into the egr line now but still acts up. I might drill into my discharge tube and put the IAT sensor there. I get the feeling I'll regret it but it makes sense.
 
Yes. Really. The bosch valve looks completely non side specific, until i really look at it...

If i was you, i would extend the IAT wires and put it in the charge pipe before the throttle body.
 
glad to see you guys talking about the IAT sensor positioning.

I've always thought that putting the IAT sensor with the air filter on an FI setup, was like that snake oil trick of putting a resistor across the IAT sensor and expecting 10 bhp extra.

Keep the feedback coming .... i'm hoping to get a dyno session this summer ....G.
 
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