New CSVT, Lots of Questions, and Want Suggestions

[planedrop]

Hey everyone, here's my first "real" post here so to speak.

I know some of these questions have been answered before, but I have a lot I want to say/ask so I figured I would add it all to one post in this section, I like to get new discussion going on topics anyway. First I will start with a troubleshooting question I have, and then proceed with the other stuff.

So I have a great condition CSVT 1998 in Red, I have had it for about 2 months and love it dearly and only payed $2450 USD for it (had to drive 4 hours to get it but totally worth it!). But I am having one slight issue, my check engine light comes on once in a while so I hooked up my OBD II reader to it and checked the error, it shows that my engine is running lean, which I figured is probably either the MAF, or more likely an O2 sensor (upstream probably?). So I decided to study into fuel trim to figure out what was going on (I didn't even know what that term was until about 3 weeks ago so forgive me if I am sounding like a noob, it's only because I am one XD). I let my OBD II reader record data for an 18 minute drive and it showed that I was getting around 18 MPG (makes sense for the way I drive it), and that my STFT on bank 1 and 2 were within +- 5%, and my LTFT was around +-7%, so I reset the error code and then proceeded to drive it for another 2 weeks ish, assuming it maybe was some sort of glitch or something. But today it came on again, I hooked up the reader and it reported both the System Too Lean code (P0171), and a Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold code (P0430). So I then did more testing with the LTFT and STFT, after 2 15 minute ish drives, the STFT B1 is an average of + .465%, STFT B2 is an average of +.66%, both of which seem great, but here is where it gets a bit odd, the LTFT B1 is an average of +15.15%, and finally LTFT B2 is an average of +5.68%. This worries me a bit, because shouldn't both banks be around the same number on the LTFT, unless a manifold leak was happening? Now first I wanna ask, what exactly is LTFT, I know it's long term, but how long, one month, one week, until you reset it? If you can reset the LTFT recording, how would I do that, because maybe it was lean at a point in time and isn't anymore? Again sorry for any noob questions, I still really am one with fuel trim.

A few more things to add about this, I did STFT testing at different RPM's, everything checks out within +- 10% on both banks at different RPM's. This happened about 3 weeks after owning it, then again 2 weeks after resetting it. I live in Portland, Oregon and the climate has been about the same for both instances, overcast, slight chance of rain, about 70 degrees Fahrenheit, altitude here is fairly low as well, about 50ft above sea level. This issue only seems to show up when I push the engine fairly hard when it's not fully warmed up (about 4 minutes from cold starting), is that maybe affecting it and I should just give it more time to warm up? When I do push it the water temp is usually around the O in "NORMAL" on the gauge, which of course isn't direct engine temp, but this also isn't where my temp stays at after a full warm up. Also, when does the ECU report Lean, is it STFT related or LTFT related?

Alright, so here comes the other stuff. First I want to know does the standard V6 Contour alternator fit on my CSVT? I figure so since they are technically the same engine, so most parts are compatible between the two right? I ask because I need a HO alternator for the subs I am putting in my CSVT and Mechman makes one for the standard Contour that produces 240A at idle, so I want to go with that one.

Another question, which I am sure is asked a lot, but I'm goona ask it anyway as I like to get new opinions on the matter and start a discussion as I usually have more questions related to the response I get and it's hard to get another response back from someone else posting in another thread from like 2 years ago if you know what I mean. Anyway, what are my options for making the CSVT faster, and I mean significantly faster, not just the basics like weight reduction, new spark plugs and all that fun stuff, etc.... I want stuff that has a yield of no less than 10HP, preferably more like 20HP. I already have a K&N filter on it so that is another thing to note. Is supercharging or turbocharging something that is even somewhat practical for the Duratec? I know I have seen some that have done it, but I haven't seen how the reliability of their engines is. I want this machine to last me at least 200K miles and it's got 116K currently, I have no doubt it will do that stock, but am I looking at far less miles if I do any sort of forced induction? Can I even fit a supercharger in this current engine bay? What kind of power yields am I looking at? Will the MTX hold up to the extra power (say 350HP ish)? What about the clutch? Also, is there anything else I can do to make it somewhat faster? Would a tune be much of a help? Oh and, if I can supercharge or turbocharge this engine, which suites it best? I would mostly want it for drag related stuff (not that I would drag it often, but stop light to stop light sort of acceleration, rather than sprint racing).

Here's another small troubleshooting thing, so my front breaks (or at least that's what it sounds like) squeal under light breaking, it's a high pitch whine, much higher pitch than normal worn pads. I checked out the pads and they seem to have plenty of life left in them, so I can't for the life of me figure out why they are squealing so bad, maybe they're ceramic breaks? I also noticed that they seem to be producing more break dust than the back ones, more than I am used to seeing from even breaks known to create dust (such as on my previous 1983 Porsche 944). Maybe it's rotor related? What would you all say?

One last thing, if there is anything else fun to do to the CSVT please feel free to suggest stuff, it's my project car/daily driver, so whatever mods I do to it need to not sacrifice reliability significantly and need to not take more than 2-3 days to complete. I want to keep the car 5 years or more, so keep that in mind as well.

Thanks to anyone that responds to this post, I know a lot of this has already been asked, but once again I want to start a discussion on it so please forgive any repeat questions. I am excited to own such a special vehicle and am excited to work with this machine, she's a beauty and is very near to my heart at this point.

 

[BrApple]

The P0171 code is indicating that the O2 sensor needs to be replaced. This is most likely causing the P0430 code also. This should be why the fuel trims are off.

The temp guage is the actual coolant temp. It has its own sensor separate from the PCM sensor.

Yes the alternators are the same. Do note that the late model Cougar alternator is different.

If you want the car to last to 200k do not bother with FI. To many have blown the motor up. Intake/headers/exhaust and maybe a tune should do. But, imho, the more you modify the greater chance of breaking the car. Yes supercharging and turbocharging have been done. Have to but a ATB diff into the MTX-75 and it will be fine.

Not sure on the brakes. However the front brakes do most of the work, so depending on the pad compound they will dust a lot more that the rear brakes.

Also check the wiring harness for issues since its a 98.

 

[planedrop]

The P0171 code is indicating that the O2 sensor needs to be replaced. This is most likely causing the P0430 code also. This should be why the fuel trims are off.

The temp guage is the actual coolant temp. It has its own sensor separate from the PCM sensor.

Yes the alternators are the same. Do note that the late model Cougar alternator is different.

If you want the car to last to 200k do not bother with FI. To many have blown the motor up. Intake/headers/exhaust and maybe a tune should do. But, imho, the more you modify the greater chance of breaking the car. Yes supercharging and turbocharging have been done. Have to but a ATB diff into the MTX-75 and it will be fine.

Not sure on the brakes. However the front brakes do most of the work, so depending on the pad compound they will dust a lot more that the rear brakes.

Also check the wiring harness for issues since its a 98.

Thanks for the fast response!

Alright would that most likely be the upstream or downstream sensor? Or should I just replace both at the same time as a good practice? This is a relief though, I was worried it might be someting serious!

Alright makes sense, I figured that was the case, I'll just do the other stuff you listed then when I have the chance/money. Isn't worth the lack of reliability for me to do FI.

I see, well I'm not too worried either way as they definitely aren't worn down much. Any chance the rotors could be causing that noise? If they were warped or something? Speaking of which, when I am driving slowly I get a slight repetitive squealing very much like when I lightly press the breaks, I am assuming this is my rotors being slightly out of balance and hitting the pads because when I apply the breaks this sound goes away. Sounds almost like a wheel bearing going bad, but wouldn't that still be present under breaking? Sorry again for being a noob at a lot of this, just making sure.

I will be checking that as well, thanks!

 

[B3NN3TT]

First thing to learn - it's SVTC, not CSVT.

Welcome.

 

[FrancisPennysac]

Second thing, DO all required maintenance, Don't jut "trust" the person you bought it from.. Plugs/wires/fuel filter/airfilter/cabin filter.. As they say Do the easy mods and stuff first.

Some advice, PLEASE do us all a favor and learn to use the search, I understand you like discussion but some do not, especially if said questions have been answered 5,000X....if your too lazy to look them up why, should anyone else??

DO NOT FULL THROTTLE A COLD ENGINE, PERIOD.
ESPECIALLY one of these Duratech's, these babies are all aluminum, so heat can and is a BIG problem if not controlled.
Literally let the car come up to temperature THEN go have fun, I learned the hard way, I full throttled a DEAD COLD 2.5...I grabbed 3rd gear and the engine blew to pieces..Not saying that was the main cause, but I am SURE it didn't help. Think about it like this... You wouldn't get out of bed and just start running as physically hard as you can right?? same concept applies to engines.

Take a can of brake clean and spray all the rotors/pads,let it evaporate then go drive the car... it could be built up brake dust tiny particles stuck in between the pad and rotor on the BACKSIDE where most ppl can't see.... Check the rotors for scaring.. chances are if something is dragging the the rotor will show it..

Air intake, Headers/exhaust, and MAYBE a tune... basically do a tune LAST.. the car will run pretty solid unless you start swapping cams or something..

Do yourself a favor, These cars aren't getting any younger.. Take the time to CLEAN AND REPLACE worn out bolts when your up under it dicking around... You'll thank me later..
Take off your side skirts and CLEAN the inside of the skirt itself as well as the rocker panel.. They are notorious for rotting off the car.

I would swap to a B&M short throw shifter..lower i about an inch (trust me DON'T go lower unless you don't like your body kit)
Clean all under the engine bay, trunk, check the car for leaks (Sit inside it and have a buddy run a hose around it on full pressure)

Have fun with the car, but know this.. you WILL break it.. If you drive it enough and have enough fun it WILL break..
I.E. I just snapped my Diff with a FACTORY 2.5 with a intake on it.. so do yourself a favor and start looking for a replacement Diff NOW Like a "Torsen" or "Qualife" or "Team M factory"
I NEVER launch the car hard.. I drive it fast but I dont really gun it out of the hole or do high clutch launches.. So the other week I figured "Wtf?" I took it up to about 5k side stepped the clutch and got the car out of the hole without too much wheelspin.. Well 15mins later I pull up to a stop sign in Neutral and the diff locks then unlocks then almost grenades in 1,000pieces..I limped the car home and that is now where it sits... Take my advice..

Oh yeah, take off the stupid door moldings..

 

[BrApple]

The code (P0171) is for an upstream O2 sensor, this is the one(s) that control the A/F ratio. The sensor is dying and reading lean, iirc. This is why the fuel trim is off.


The rotors could be causing the noise. I would check that the axle nuts are tight. But if they are not the brake pedal would be soft the first time its pressed.

I am not familiar with the Team M Factory diff, but the Torsen or Qualife and the known, proven and recommend differential for the MTX-75.

 

[planedrop]

Second thing, DO all required maintenance, Don't jut "trust" the person you bought it from.. Plugs/wires/fuel filter/airfilter/cabin filter.. As they say Do the easy mods and stuff first.

Some advice, PLEASE do us all a favor and learn to use the search, I understand you like discussion but some do not, especially if said questions have been answered 5,000X....if your too lazy to look them up why, should anyone else??

DO NOT FULL THROTTLE A COLD ENGINE, PERIOD.
ESPECIALLY one of these Duratech's, these babies are all aluminum, so heat can and is a BIG problem if not controlled.
Literally let the car come up to temperature THEN go have fun, I learned the hard way, I full throttled a DEAD COLD 2.5...I grabbed 3rd gear and the engine blew to pieces..Not saying that was the main cause, but I am SURE it didn't help. Think about it like this... You wouldn't get out of bed and just start running as physically hard as you can right?? same concept applies to engines.

Take a can of brake clean and spray all the rotors/pads,let it evaporate then go drive the car... it could be built up brake dust tiny particles stuck in between the pad and rotor on the BACKSIDE where most ppl can't see.... Check the rotors for scaring.. chances are if something is dragging the the rotor will show it..

Air intake, Headers/exhaust, and MAYBE a tune... basically do a tune LAST.. the car will run pretty solid unless you start swapping cams or something..

Do yourself a favor, These cars aren't getting any younger.. Take the time to CLEAN AND REPLACE worn out bolts when your up under it dicking around... You'll thank me later..
Take off your side skirts and CLEAN the inside of the skirt itself as well as the rocker panel.. They are notorious for rotting off the car.

I would swap to a B&M short throw shifter..lower i about an inch (trust me DON'T go lower unless you don't like your body kit)
Clean all under the engine bay, trunk, check the car for leaks (Sit inside it and have a buddy run a hose around it on full pressure)

Have fun with the car, but know this.. you WILL break it.. If you drive it enough and have enough fun it WILL break..
I.E. I just snapped my Diff with a FACTORY 2.5 with a intake on it.. so do yourself a favor and start looking for a replacement Diff NOW Like a "Torsen" or "Qualife" or "Team M factory"
I NEVER launch the car hard.. I drive it fast but I dont really gun it out of the hole or do high clutch launches.. So the other week I figured "Wtf?" I took it up to about 5k side stepped the clutch and got the car out of the hole without too much wheelspin.. Well 15mins later I pull up to a stop sign in Neutral and the diff locks then unlocks then almost grenades in 1,000pieces..I limped the car home and that is now where it sits... Take my advice..

Oh yeah, take off the stupid door moldings..

Alright I will remember that lol, alwasy thought it was CSVT.

I will do all the maintenance of course, I always do within the first month or so of owning a new car.

Yes I understand this about searching, but if someone doesn't like to answer the questions then they don't have to reply lol. I know some don't want to, so in that case they can just ignore it. Like I said, other questions almost always arise with me so I prefer to get answers I can respond to, as old threads never get replied to.

Alright I figured such, it was warmed up slightly but not as much as it should be, I will definitely keep that in mind. Good to know about these engines too, thanks!

Thanks, I completely forgot about brake clean lol. Yeah I looked at the rotors they don't see to have any scaring which is a welcome sign, so I will grab some brake clean and do that!

Ok makes sense, I figured I would want to get everything else tip top before tuning. I will keep all that in mind. As for the intake, doesn't it technically already have a cold air intake from the wheel well?

Good to know, I'll take those off and clean them next time I have a chance to detail the car! I have lots of extra various bolts too so I'll use any that fit.

I actually like the current height, I will consider lowering it, but it's my first car that can go over speed bumps without scraping, kinda nice to not worry about it. I will probably grab a short throw shifter though! I have had the entire cabin checked for leaks, everything is perfectly good which I was happy about!

Thanks for the advice, yeah I never ever will be launching this baby lol, I do easy clutch take offs to prevent all else from having issues. I only run it hard once I've got going already. If you don't mind me asking, how many miles did your SVTC have on it when this happened?

Will do!

 

[planedrop]

The code (P0171) is for an upstream O2 sensor, this is the one(s) that control the A/F ratio. The sensor is dying and reading lean, iirc. This is why the fuel trim is off.


The rotors could be causing the noise. I would check that the axle nuts are tight. But if they are not the brake pedal would be soft the first time its pressed.

I am not familiar with the Team M Factory diff, but the Torsen or Qualife and the known, proven and recommend differential for the MTX-75.

Ok cool, I'll grab a new one ASAP then, thanks for that!!

I see, I will put some brake clean on it (like the previous guy mentioned) and see if that helps, and I will check the nut.

Very good to know, thanks!

 

[FrancisPennysac]

Thanks for the advice, yeah I never ever will be launching this baby lol, I do easy clutch take offs to prevent all else from having issues. I only run it hard once I've got going already. If you don't mind me asking, how many miles did your SVTC have on it when this happened?

Will do!

Well my first SVTC that spun the bearing had 168K on it, I drove the car 4 miles and blew it up literally...So lord knows how many times it was beat on before I got it..
My current one has 123k on it, I have owned it since 118K and I drive it how it was intended to be driven...hard. Again same thing as before, who know how many full rpm clutch launches the car went through before I got my hands on it..

To say I DON'T "baby" it is a understatement.. So if that is any measure of it I dunno, but to me it seems to hold up rather well to my constant abuse I throw at it..
I've told people before and I'll say it on here, I bought it so I can beat the living hell out of it, and have fun doing it, If it breaks, I fix it. I thought that was the whole point of this "car" thing...

Everyone knows, if your going to run your car hard, it going to break quicker.

 

[planedrop]

Well my first SVTC that spun the bearing had 168K on it, I drove the car 4 miles and blew it up literally...So lord knows how many times it was beat on before I got it..
My current one has 123k on it, I have owned it since 118K and I drive it how it was intended to be driven...hard. Again same thing as before, who know how many full rpm clutch launches the car went through before I got my hands on it..

To say I DON'T "baby" it is a understatement.. So if that is any measure of it I dunno, but to me it seems to hold up rather well to my constant abuse I throw at it..
I've told people before and I'll say it on here, I bought it so I can beat the living hell out of it, and have fun doing it, If it breaks, I fix it. I thought that was the whole point of this "car" thing...

Everyone knows, if your going to run your car hard, it going to break quicker.

Thanks for the info, I'm guessing the bearing blew because of oil starvation? Is that right? I run my SVTC with an extra half quart of oil to help prevent that. Good to know they hold up well though, I am really liking mine so far. Just trying to determine how much of a sub setup I should put in it, originally was goona do 2 12 inch subs with a custom box, but not sure if I want the weight to be added to the car. Feel maybe a single one would be a better choice.

 

[BrApple]

There has been two schools or thought on why rod bearing spin in these engines. Oil starvation and rod bearing elongation. While running an extra 1/2 qt of oil is a good thing, most do not believe that oil starvation is the issue. If there was no oil being picked up by the oil pump one would think that the main bearings would be first to go, not the rod bearings. My personal observation is the oil pressure does not drop while taking long sweeping right hand turns. The other more likely answer is the sinter cast rods. Over time the rod end can elongate and this allows the bearing to slip and fail. This would seem to go along with what people have seen before.

 

[CLASSVT]

I will say doing a tune should be somewhat of a priority. I don't recall where I read this, but on this forum some time ago there was mention of more engine failures seem to happen with pistons shattering (I think on cylinder 1?) when people were running without tunes. It happened to me, so of course I was seeking out that information at the time.

Also, I don't think anyone will take offense to CSVT. That acronym has been used perhaps more often than SVTC, so no worries.

Also, a personal comment on the "search Nazis" so to speak. These are old cars, and this is an old forum, and pretty much EVERYTHING has been discussed. If you don't prefer discussion, you probably shouldn't spend time in a discussion forum? If you want this forum to die completely, keep telling people not to post questions that have already been discussed. Not pointing any fingers, no disrespect intended. Just my two cents.

 

[planedrop]

There has been two schools or thought on why rod bearing spin in these engines. Oil starvation and rod bearing elongation. While running an extra 1/2 qt of oil is a good thing, most do not believe that oil starvation is the issue. If there was no oil being picked up by the oil pump one would think that the main bearings would be first to go, not the rod bearings. My personal observation is the oil pressure does not drop while taking long sweeping right hand turns. The other more likely answer is the sinter cast rods. Over time the rod end can elongate and this allows the bearing to slip and fail. This would seem to go along with what people have seen before.

Thank you for that info!! I always assumed it was oil starvation which has made me worried about taking right hand turns quickly with the car, but what you say makes a lot more sense than that!

 

[planedrop]

I will say doing a tune should be somewhat of a priority. I don't recall where I read this, but on this forum some time ago there was mention of more engine failures seem to happen with pistons shattering (I think on cylinder 1?) when people were running without tunes. It happened to me, so of course I was seeking out that information at the time.

Also, I don't think anyone will take offense to CSVT. That acronym has been used perhaps more often than SVTC, so no worries.

Also, a personal comment on the "search Nazis" so to speak. These are old cars, and this is an old forum, and pretty much EVERYTHING has been discussed. If you don't prefer discussion, you probably shouldn't spend time in a discussion forum? If you want this forum to die completely, keep telling people not to post questions that have already been discussed. Not pointing any fingers, no disrespect intended. Just my two cents.

Alright I will prioritize getting one this summer then, what in specific would you recommend? Like what specific tuner?

Exactly my point about telling me to search for everything lol, without posts the forum would die.

 

[planedrop]

Second thing, DO all required maintenance, Don't jut "trust" the person you bought it from.. Plugs/wires/fuel filter/airfilter/cabin filter.. As they say Do the easy mods and stuff first.

Some advice, PLEASE do us all a favor and learn to use the search, I understand you like discussion but some do not, especially if said questions have been answered 5,000X....if your too lazy to look them up why, should anyone else??

DO NOT FULL THROTTLE A COLD ENGINE, PERIOD.
ESPECIALLY one of these Duratech's, these babies are all aluminum, so heat can and is a BIG problem if not controlled.
Literally let the car come up to temperature THEN go have fun, I learned the hard way, I full throttled a DEAD COLD 2.5...I grabbed 3rd gear and the engine blew to pieces..Not saying that was the main cause, but I am SURE it didn't help. Think about it like this... You wouldn't get out of bed and just start running as physically hard as you can right?? same concept applies to engines.

Take a can of brake clean and spray all the rotors/pads,let it evaporate then go drive the car... it could be built up brake dust tiny particles stuck in between the pad and rotor on the BACKSIDE where most ppl can't see.... Check the rotors for scaring.. chances are if something is dragging the the rotor will show it..

Air intake, Headers/exhaust, and MAYBE a tune... basically do a tune LAST.. the car will run pretty solid unless you start swapping cams or something..

Do yourself a favor, These cars aren't getting any younger.. Take the time to CLEAN AND REPLACE worn out bolts when your up under it dicking around... You'll thank me later..
Take off your side skirts and CLEAN the inside of the skirt itself as well as the rocker panel.. They are notorious for rotting off the car.

I would swap to a B&M short throw shifter..lower i about an inch (trust me DON'T go lower unless you don't like your body kit)
Clean all under the engine bay, trunk, check the car for leaks (Sit inside it and have a buddy run a hose around it on full pressure)

Have fun with the car, but know this.. you WILL break it.. If you drive it enough and have enough fun it WILL break..
I.E. I just snapped my Diff with a FACTORY 2.5 with a intake on it.. so do yourself a favor and start looking for a replacement Diff NOW Like a "Torsen" or "Qualife" or "Team M factory"
I NEVER launch the car hard.. I drive it fast but I dont really gun it out of the hole or do high clutch launches.. So the other week I figured "Wtf?" I took it up to about 5k side stepped the clutch and got the car out of the hole without too much wheelspin.. Well 15mins later I pull up to a stop sign in Neutral and the diff locks then unlocks then almost grenades in 1,000pieces..I limped the car home and that is now where it sits... Take my advice..

Oh yeah, take off the stupid door moldings..

Second thing, DO all required maintenance, Don't jut "trust" the person you bought it from.. Plugs/wires/fuel filter/airfilter/cabin filter.. As they say Do the easy mods and stuff first.

Some advice, PLEASE do us all a favor and learn to use the search, I understand you like discussion but some do not, especially if said questions have been answered 5,000X....if your too lazy to look them up why, should anyone else??

DO NOT FULL THROTTLE A COLD ENGINE, PERIOD.
ESPECIALLY one of these Duratech's, these babies are all aluminum, so heat can and is a BIG problem if not controlled.
Literally let the car come up to temperature THEN go have fun, I learned the hard way, I full throttled a DEAD COLD 2.5...I grabbed 3rd gear and the engine blew to pieces..Not saying that was the main cause, but I am SURE it didn't help. Think about it like this... You wouldn't get out of bed and just start running as physically hard as you can right?? same concept applies to engines.

Take a can of brake clean and spray all the rotors/pads,let it evaporate then go drive the car... it could be built up brake dust tiny particles stuck in between the pad and rotor on the BACKSIDE where most ppl can't see.... Check the rotors for scaring.. chances are if something is dragging the the rotor will show it..

Air intake, Headers/exhaust, and MAYBE a tune... basically do a tune LAST.. the car will run pretty solid unless you start swapping cams or something..

Do yourself a favor, These cars aren't getting any younger.. Take the time to CLEAN AND REPLACE worn out bolts when your up under it dicking around... You'll thank me later..
Take off your side skirts and CLEAN the inside of the skirt itself as well as the rocker panel.. They are notorious for rotting off the car.

I would swap to a B&M short throw shifter..lower i about an inch (trust me DON'T go lower unless you don't like your body kit)
Clean all under the engine bay, trunk, check the car for leaks (Sit inside it and have a buddy run a hose around it on full pressure)

Have fun with the car, but know this.. you WILL break it.. If you drive it enough and have enough fun it WILL break..
I.E. I just snapped my Diff with a FACTORY 2.5 with a intake on it.. so do yourself a favor and start looking for a replacement Diff NOW Like a "Torsen" or "Qualife" or "Team M factory"
I NEVER launch the car hard.. I drive it fast but I dont really gun it out of the hole or do high clutch launches.. So the other week I figured "Wtf?" I took it up to about 5k side stepped the clutch and got the car out of the hole without too much wheelspin.. Well 15mins later I pull up to a stop sign in Neutral and the diff locks then unlocks then almost grenades in 1,000pieces..I limped the car home and that is now where it sits... Take my advice..

Oh yeah, take off the stupid door moldings..

Also I meant to ask, do you have any recommendations on the intake and exhaust stuff? I also am curious, do intakes made for the 2.5L non SVT Contour fit on the SVT? I assume no but wanted to make sure. Thanks for any help!

 

[CLASSVT]

How/where to get a tune isn't a simple answer that I can give you. I'm not super knowledgeable on the topic, hence my post here: http://contour.org/ceg-vb/forum/eng...rades/pcm-tuning/84597-basic-tuning-questions

Read through and look into SCT tunes and their hardware required for the tune, then find a place that will either do a mail order tune, or a dyno tune.

 

[planedrop]

How/where to get a tune isn't a simple answer that I can give you. I'm not super knowledgeable on the topic, hence my post here: http://contour.org/ceg-vb/forum/eng...rades/pcm-tuning/84597-basic-tuning-questions

Read through and look into SCT tunes and their hardware required for the tune, then find a place that will either do a mail order tune, or a dyno tune.

Alright cool I'll do some research on that thanks!!

 

[BlackE1]

I took it up to about 5k side stepped the clutch and got the car out of the hole without too much wheelspin.. Well 15mins later I pull up to a stop sign in Neutral and the diff locks then unlocks then almost grenades in 1,000pieces..

I would think dropping the clutch at 5k there is a good chance you will break something on any stock drive line, not just the Contour.