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hard to open door handle

MadDog

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Jul 27, 2012
Messages
618
Location
Augusta, GA
My drivers door has become somewhat difficult to open. You can pull on the handle but sometimes it doesn't trigger the unlock mechanism. This is more than likely due to old age. Sometime ago, I found a how-to that described what the problem was and how to fix it (I can't find it any more $%(#&(&)(@)($ ). The problem is wear on a small white plastic grommet and the simple fix is to pull the metal connecting rod out, and rotate the grommet 180 degrees.

So, after pulling the door apart, I got the locking mechanism, but I don't see a way to get the rod out, and rotate the grommet while the locking mechanism is still in the door.

Is it necessary to pull the entire locking mechanism out to replace the grommet ?

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
I can hack the old one out, but does anyone have a part number or name ? Circle clip ? Door Grommet ? Left-handed Frangistam ?

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
I have the Doorman replacements for the 9F955 (just did the IMRC fix), and they don't look quite the same. The Ford part has grooves on 4 sides, but it might work anyway. Worth a try.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
It still might work, the part is about the right size, but it looks a little different. Seems to me the right way to get-r-done it to pull the entire mechanism out. I guess I will add that to the list.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
Pull both upper assembly and door latch proper to do it correctly. If too much work then give up, not hard at all. I finagled up some steel replacements for the plastic parts that will last forever so no need to do again.

As well, there is a pukey little spring in there that if the end hook breaks off the door then quits opening from the outside too, that I fixed once by simply rebending another hook on the end, enough straight left to do it and been working for years like that.
 
Thanks for the tip. I was planning on taking the whole thing out, as I might as well clean and lubricate the moving parts. There is probably a lot of grit built up in the moving parts.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
I've not had my Contour latch apart that far but if like a Focus a nightmare inside and the latch made to destroy it to get inside. I did mine by grinding off rivets but had to drill and tap stands to put it back together. More parts inside than you think and much of the inside may not be able to be lubed or cleaned well unless totally apart, the Focus is like that. Limit switches and even planetary transmissions to work the lock portion and a mess. Mine worked fine and years now but be advised, complicated part.
 
The Haynes manual doesn't make it look too bad. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA….. we know how the Haynes make everything look easy. I should take a look at the factory manual. I don't want to have to remove rivets.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
Service manual will be of no help to you there, they look at it like change out the entire part. Ford does not advocate fixing separate parts at all, can't get any money that way. If they can't spend all day tearing car down to then spend five minutes changing the part to charge 10X what's it's worth they do not want your business. Most parts like latches are now intentioned to be destroyed before you can fix them, you have to go way outside the box, I live there pretty much always. I will drill and tap rivet for a bolt if it saves a $100+ amount and have done like work on bunches of Contour/Focus parts. For instance, with all the rad hoses, you can go to bulk straight heater hose on all but the big upper and lower rad ones and save over $100 as vs. Motorcraft brand parts. The bulk hose lasts just as long. My Contour and two Foci do not have OEM type molded hoses on them there at all any more.

I've done two door latches now that have worked properly after the work for years, both were like $140+ when priced at Ford. Window regulators get rebuilt for like $10 each and last the same, actually somewhat longer than the OEM Ford ones ($125) I was using before. Drilling rivets is the work of a few seconds and only a drill motor needed to do it. Some call me cheap but I pay myself anywhere from $50 to $500 an hour doing that kind of stuff. Try getting that at a job. Just rebuilt an alt today, $35 cost, 30 min. work, and alt goes for close to $200 and mine last generally WAY longer than the hilarious 'lifetime warranty' ones you get over the counter.

Compared to others I look at broken car parts as revenue generators, often you can make cash out of thin air doing stuff like that.
 
No one here is going to blame you for rebuilding it yourself. One of the things that got me started (and I am still just starting compared to many people here), is getting tired of paying a lot of money for small fixes. I won't even tell you how much I paid the Ford dealer to replace my power antenna.
Still, I take your point about the self-destructing parts. I need to tread carefully.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
You just gotta figure out low cost ways of fixing the stuff without paying big for it. Sometimes the ideas will not work out and you are stuck buying the new part there. Time is the biggest factor in most cases, or one car only and have to get it back up and running fast. Why 30 years ago I went to 3 cars running at all times pretty much, it allows for two and a backup and then you got time to fix the one that's down the way you want.

You may well have to destroy part of a part to get inside and what you have to do, the trick is figuring a way to recoup that back low cost wise to give good long service when you are done with the interior repairs.

The OEM (at least Ford) has now turned its' engineers inward looking to redesign now to last only a certain length of time, not forever or even longer lasting like used to be. They used to use a longer lifetime viewpoint but with cars routinely lasting 300K in many cases they now feel forced to shorten the lives in many ways, like 5W-20 oil and parts pre-designed to break at a shorter life than used to be, it figures in with other things that make sense and cover that up like use of plastics and the oil, it saves fuel money and the plastics are lighter to do same. But look closer and if a conspriracy nut like me you clearly see how the thinner oil wears out engines quicker.and the plastic parts break faster to create minor nuisances that then stack up to make owner tired of things breaking and then gets rid of a car that could easily last 2-3 more years. All contrived to control your thinking there. They are trying to mind control us lemmings to do what they want. Look at the much shorter span of time parts are now supplied for most car things, they are NLA often at 5-6 yars now, you can forget that unspoken 10 year parts availability rule now. I couldn't get parts for a Tempo ATX 5 years after it was built, Ford no longer carried them at all. Of course they would sell me an entire transmission. Most smaller parts have disappeared now, they want no less than at least $50 per parts sale now, small stuff can only be gotten by buying bigger subassemblies now costing 10X as much. More of what they've done with the engineers and bean counters now. Plastic parts are often molded with holes or lack of bracing now in the most highly loaded areas to let them break far faster, look at the broken parts close and where they break and usually it becomes very clear what they are doing there now. I buy more than one of the same car to be able to interchange parts and if you do that you can clearly see the cheapening process as later year models of the same car roll out, they will change this or that to lower quality of parts and cost required but also to break faster to up the parts sales. It's all over the cars and gets worse as the model matures. Things that before could be unbolted would end up riveed or metal parts changed to plastic and a previously missing hole molded in to fail it faster to boot. All over the cars, I could find changes like that all over my '88, '92 and '94 Tempos. The two Focus I have now show the same thing, most glaring is the thermostat housing once made of durable bakelite plastic later made of much more flexible ABS and even redesigned on top of that to let the part flex even more to leak much easier. The altered part sends thousands of Foci to an early junkyard grave when they leak water to overheat and damage the otherwise bulletproof zetec engine. How about paying close to $400 to get a simple PCV rubber grommet since it only comes with the entire oil separator assembly? Pretty damn silly. The Focus 2.0 SPI engine has had a major flaw with valveseat dropping since it was a 1.9 in Escorts, they knew it yet never lifted a finger to fix it through all the years of production since the basic engine lasted forever without that, they needed to shorten the life to bring them down faster and again to the scrapyard. A couple of very minor low cost engineering changes would fix that forever but they did NOT wish to fix it. Same with the CD4E ATX used in so many Fords, they went many years not fixing well known major flaws there until it became a major problem like with Mazda version of same trans, there it killed the model 626.

One reason Ford service manuals rotate so much around simply changing one or all parts now, their mechs on the whole are not nearly as well-trained as they used to be. The manuals used to go into how the part actually worked to teach the techs new skills, but with the big exodus of the highest trained ones in the '90s; well, they have never recovered from that. CEO Jacques what's his name started feeding internally for profit increases there since they could not increase the price of cars and never let it be said corporations won't feed on their own when they feel the need to. . Really good mechs used to be able to make $75+K a year there and many were cut back slowly to like $40-$50K and they jumped ship by the hundreds. Globalization has come home to roost paywise and why so much incompetence is now found at the dealerships. They in no way have as many well trained people as they used to, they won't pay for it. Look at the manuals, they show mostly nothing but simple flowcharts now for those that cannot think. Much of the useful stuff is now gone. Manuals from the '70s are often over the average head of the mechs there now, too much work to have to read.

Many dealerships now buying 'lifetime' warranty parts from the aftermarket and prefer to let the customers think they are genuine Ford parts when often they are not. They then charge what the Ford part would have cost. I saw plenty of that as a delivery driver too.

Gotta pay for all that glass in the fancy new showroom somehow.......................
 
I would like to have a second car so I don't have to sweat fixing my DD in a short timeframe. I just need to find another CSVT close by (might as well get one that I am learning to work on).

I think the car-lifetime thing is a pendulum. I remember that bad days of Detroit. My parents owned some pretty bad cars that didn't last long at all, and look at things now. The engineering is now waayyyy better and cars routinely last longer. So, I figure now things will get made a bit cheaper until too many people notice.

I take your point about finding some small parts is difficult. A few years back I needed the IMRC linking rod, that fell out of the car when the plastic grommets rotted out. Ford would only sell the entire intake manifold assembly to me, which also had the part ($1000+). I decided enough was enough and for the first time ever I went to the junkyard. 15 minutes in, I scavenged the linking rod from a junker. They didn't even charge me for it.

I am lucky enough to live near 3 fairly large auto graveyards so finding small fittings usually isn't a problem. For now.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
There you go, I have so many around me I cannot count. Some parts are as good as new from the yards and some should not be bought at all as they will last no longer than what you have. You just gotta apply a bit of thinking to know what is good or not. I buy very little electrical unless from inside a car that has not been rained all over. Plastic can be good or bad depending on age/exposure to the elements. Sometimes you run into a part that someone has just changed for new and good luck there.

Some of the yards here are ridiculous as to prices but some still practically give the stuff away.
 
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