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Failed inspection for loose steering wheel

BillHoo

CEG'er
Joined
Dec 19, 2015
Messages
51
Location
vienna, va
Guy at the inspection station failed it for (among other things) a loose steering wheel.

Is there a trick to tightening the steering wheel on 2000 Ford Contour? So far, I've removed the top and bottom covers. Does not look like the steering column is loose, so I'm hoping it is just a nut that needs to be tightened.

I do have a tilt-steering wheel and heard about possible hing pin. But the looseness seems to be at the front where the steering wheel connects to the column. I see 2 screws behind the top of the wheel and two screws behind the bottom of the wheel - are those needed to be removed? Or does the steering wheel/horn cover just need to be pry'd off?
 
which part wiggles? steering wheel? airbag? or steering colum. 1) under the airbag theres a huge nut that holds it tight. 2) on the back side of teh steering wheel when you turn it all the way to theleft of right youll see the holes that do the airbag, 3) down by your feet theres a nut that can be tired.
 
It seems to be right at the steering wheel. It wiggles a little left and right and up and down.

The steering column itself seems to be firm. the area that goes up and down with the tilt lever also appears to be firm.

I found a youtube video on removing the airbag, so I might try that this weekend to access the nut. They warn about ensuring the battery is disconnected.

the guy doing the inspection said he thinks it just a nut that needs to be tightened. I hope that is it too. I've read that the Contour had a hinge pin that is prone to breaking and that it requires a special tool to pull it.
 
Ehh.. no special tool.. no hinge pin that I remember. Iv swapped a few steering wheels its not that hard. have to crank the wheel left and right w the car off and battery disconected.. on the back of the wheel is a small torx ..one on either side. that loosens the airbag and then when the airbag comes off then you see the huge nut that holds the wheel on. easy.
 
My bad, at first, I thought it used special security screws - I was looking down the wrong holes and those were some kind of plastic pop rivet. Found the appropriate hole and there is a Torx in there. I used a T25 as described in a YouTube video on removing the airbags, but it just won't catch. When I started getting a few metal shavings, I decided to stop before I ended up stripping the head.

May ask my local mechanic if he can remove and tighten when I have him do the tie rod.
 
I was at Home depot looking for one of these T25 Torx tools, but they don't have them in retail, only for online delivery.
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A nice Lesbian was passing by and told me when she works on her car and has a tough to reach Torx screw, she uses a Torx screwdriver and a pair of vice grips. She pushes hard on the screw and applies slow, even pressure with the vice grips to turn until she hears it squeak. She said to clamp it hard around the handle, but not hard enough to crack it.

I may just order the tool.
 
I couldn't wait to get that T handled torx tool. So I just got the TORX screwdriver set at home depot. My first Allen wrenches don't seem to reach.

It was HOT today. Sweating as I was after installing the evap canister solenoid to resolve the "broken evap hose" fail from the inspection.

I had no air conditioning after disconnecting the battery.

I poked around with the T25 Torx (as described in a YouTube video on removing the airbags) and was able to get the bottom steering wheel screw out fairly easily.

The top was very difficult and the tool would not bite in and turn. I even tried a T22 and a T27 torx. But they didnt seem to seat either. By this time, I figured it was stripped and looked for another way to get the screw out.

I opted to use a box cutter and cut the rubber steering wheel cover around the screw well.

Once I cleared the area around, I could get a better view of the screw with a mirror and flashlight. I tried to seat the T25 firmly, but it kept spinning. I took a good look at the screw head and it didn't seem stripped. In fact it seemed bigger than the T25.

I tried the T27 again....SON OF A BISCUIT! It fit perfectly.... And the top was a T27 and bottom was a T25. Someone has been using a lot of mismatched, non standard screws on this car!

I carefully disconnected the airbag and lifted it off the wheel.

Looks like I need a 15mm socket to tighten the steering wheel. Couldn't find my 15 anywhere.

I used a 5\8 open end box wrench and carefully tightened it.

Put everything back. Another fail resolved!

I don't think anyone will notice the hole cut into the back of the steering wheel as it is only visible when the wheel is turned hard to the left and only seen when looking into oward the car. Maybe a square of silver duct tape would hide it even more.

Drank a gallon of water as I was drenched in sweat when I was done. In the 90s and humid again today.
 
This too was a cheap fix, aside from the cost of the torx screwdriver set and the damage I had to do to the back of the steering wheel cutting away the rubber to reach the screw.
 
Well I just got the car back from my local mechanic.

The inspector had cited the loose steering wheel as a failure and wrote a bullet under that - "Should get Passenger side front Tie Rod done". That's all. No further instruction or why. My mechanic looked at it and said he saw nothing wrong. He said there is only "the most miniscule of play". He didn't recommend doing anything with it.

He also checked out the ABS and found no faults.

Not wanting to waste his time, I told him to give me an oil change for which he charged me $25.

I'm bringing the car to the inspection station tomorrow to see if the car will pass.

So, this was the list of dings for SAFETY Inspection only:

- Brakes PASS - but he saw the ABS light flicker as he rolled the car out of the bay and wrote that I should get the ABS Brake system done. I topped off the brake fluid. Mechanic found no problem with ABS system - DONE
- Steering FAIL - Loose steering wheel, might need to tighten steering wheel nut. Should get passenger side front Tie Rod done". I tightened the steering wheel nut. Mechanic found no problem with tie rod. - DONE
- Headlights FAIL - Headlights were WAAAY off. I had to replace some headlight parts with junkyard parts. I adjusted headlights, but they are still slightly off - DONE?
- Other Lights FAIL - Tag light not working - Found tag light bulb holder was missing. Replaced with junkyard part - DONE
- Emissions FAIL - Evap Canister Hose broken - Replaced Evap Canister Solenoid which had broken hose connector - DONE
 
My car passed! Yippee!

So I dropped my car off at this gas station where I should have been suspicious - Last day of the month and not a single car in line trying to get their inspection sticker before it expires...

Anyway, the same tech comes up to the car looks at the failed sticker. He says "It's been a long time!" I said, "Well, I had to go through some junkyards to find parts, then I had to order some parts and then I had to install them." Not another word. He jumps in the car and rolls it into the bay.

Ten minutes later, he come in the waiting room and says pretty gruffly "You need to get your ABS brakes fixed. Your Tag lights were still out and your headlights need adjusting. I adjusted them for you and I replaced the tag lights"

I said. "I replace the tags lights and I topped off the brake fluid and there was no ABS light. I also brought the car to a local shop to check out the ABS brakes Tie rods and they found nothing wrong."

He snapped back "Then you need to find a better mechanic... someone who knows how ABS brakes work. The light should not go on when I turn the key."

Not wanting to argue, I said OK. He stormed out of the waiting area back to the bay.

Five minutes later, he comes in and holds out his closed hand. I reach out and he drops two dead bulbs in my palm. They were the little tube lights that look like fuses. Those are your tag lights! He said. They were indeed burned out. I was pretty sure all my lights functioned when I tested the night before.

Then he stalked away again.

I was mulling in my head what I'd say if he failed my car AND charged me for the bulb replacement and headlight alignment! I did not give him consent to do the work. I had extra bulbs in my toolbox at home. I didn't need to be paying whatever they might charge for bulb installation and alignment.

Another ten minutes and he came back with the passed inspection report. the cashier charged me $1 for the re-inspection.

He reiterated that I still need the ABS worked on.

I dunno. My wife wants me to give them a bad review. But I figure he didn't charge for the work and passed the car.

I do wonder if most gas stations carry those little taglight bulbs around. Are they cheap? He didn't charge for them.

I checked the alignment of the headlights last night and it looked like he lowered them maybe an inch and did not adjust the horizontal.

Maybe he decided to back off when he saw the receipt from the other garage that looked at the ABS and Tie rods.
 
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