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1995 Ford Contour V6-153 2.5L DOHC

M

midnite cranberry

Guest
Intermittently--perhaps once each 10-mile commute--at an established speed, RPMs will jump to ~3000. When it's happened at lower speeds, it's been followed by a jerk. Most recently, it's been happening at 55 mph, and I've taken the first exit. I can drive the rest of my commute at 35-45 mph or, when required, accelerate again to 55 mph without recurrence.

CEL comes and goes and always has (Ford gave up on it). Diagnostics run on Monday returned codes of 628, 225, 177, 176, and 136. I was told it is the transmission and would cost more to fix than the car is worth. Is there anything I can do to buy some time before I take on a loan or lease payment?
 
Intermittently--perhaps once each 10-mile commute--at an established speed, RPMs will jump to ~3000. When it's happened at lower speeds, it's been followed by a jerk. Most recently, it's been happening at 55 mph, and I've taken the first exit. I can drive the rest of my commute at 35-45 mph or, when required, accelerate again to 55 mph without recurrence.

CEL comes and goes and always has (Ford gave up on it). Diagnostics run on Monday returned codes of 628, 225, 177, 176, and 136. I was told it is the transmission and would cost more to fix than the car is worth. Is there anything I can do to buy some time before I take on a loan or lease payment?

You're right, you're transmission may very well be on the outs. However, one thing I would replace prior to doing anything too expensive is replace the vehicle speed sensor. This mounts to the tail of the transmission and can cause all sorts of malfeasance, including slow-witted shifts, banging into gear on downshifts, etc.

Here are your EEC-IV codes:

628 is an MLUS failure
225 is knock sensor -- you're probably not getting a signal from it. Not a big deal, but not something I'd leave unattended for too long.
177 is Lambda sensor (left) too rich
176, oddly enough is Lambda sensor (left) too lean (maybe your getting readings at both ends of the spectrum)
136 is Lambda sensor (left) mixture lean
 
... Is there anything I can do to buy some time before I take on a loan or lease payment?
Change the tranny fluid. Change the Bank 2 (radiator side) O2 sensor. This is the one next to the oil filter. Remove the oil filter for more room to manuever the ratchet.
 
Does the speedometer needle jump around? Just asked as when mine did on early '95 v6, it indicated the mechanical cable was broken/fraying and about to destroy the VSS.

Mike
 
The speedometer remains steady. In fact, I react immediately to the RPMs and wonder what I'd report for symptoms if I didn't have a tach.

Tranny fluid was changed and seemed to soften or eliminate jerk. All of this started almost immediately after some exhaust rebuild. Probably no connection, but with the location of the O2 sensor, could there be?

The TSS was scheduled for replacement today . . . then O2 . . . VSS . . ..
 
The speedometer remains steady. In fact, I react immediately to the RPMs and wonder what I'd report for symptoms if I didn't have a tach.

Tranny fluid was changed and seemed to soften or eliminate jerk. All of this started almost immediately after some exhaust rebuild. Probably no connection, but with the location of the O2 sensor, could there be?

The TSS was scheduled for replacement today . . . then O2 . . . VSS . . ..

Well, if the O2s were broken or improperly installed during the exhaust work, you could be kicking codes as a result, but as you know, none of that is related to the tranny stuff you're experiencing.
 
similar thing happened to my car about a week and a half before the transmission bit the dust. for what its worth the transmission got better after a day or so and shifted smoother than it ever had before it suddenly started to slip almost completely.

when it happens, does it feel as if you shifted into neutral momentarily (or a lower gear?) which then quickly corrects? if so thats similar to what happened to me.

my advice: change the fluid, and pray.

now if it isn't the transmission, it could be the vss, or possibly an issue with the TPS (causing a momentary shift into the wrong gear)
 
Your torque converter is slipping when it's supposed to be in lock-up. See the definition of the DTC 628 (same as P1744 on 96-on vehicles). You can refer to previous P1744-related threads for many details, also check the "old" forums.

I wouldn't waste the money on either a TSS or VSS, they aren't the problem.

Probably the typical worn-out valve body and burned torque converter.

Some flaky O2 sensors and a (most likely) improperly executed "goose test" covers the rest of your fault codes. I'd worry more about the tranny first.

Steve
 
Just circling back to thank those who responded to my post. About 10 days ago, replaced the transmission range sensor, and since then my V6 has had new life. About ready to turn over 110,000 -- less on the engine, and I'll appreciate every additional mile it gives me.
 
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