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Wheel Bearing Replacement - part two

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  • Wheel Bearing Replacement - part two

    Please add this post after the first part.
    • Remove the knuckle by tapping it off with a hammer (does not have to be real hard)

    • Catch the knuckle before it falls - notice all the beautiful rust


    Now it is time to press the hub and bearings out - I have a press if you do not you will want to take the knuckles somewhere to have this work done.
    • Press the hub out - I used a 1-1/8" socket to extend the press

    • Next take the retainer clip out of the outside of the bearing (forgot the picture)
    • Press the bearing out

    • Once the bearing is out you can easily remove the inner clip - You will need to remove this to put the new bearing in.
    • Reinstall the outer clip to stop the bearing at the right spot
    • Press the new bearing in - I did this from the inside of the knuckle using the old bearing to press on the outside of the new bearing - instead of pressing on the inner race an possibly messing up the bearing

    • Put in the inner retaining clip
    • Press the hub in (new or used if still ok) - you can see the inner retaining clip in this picture



    This time when I removed the hub the inner bearing race came with it. If this happens you will have to figure out how to get it off. Here is how I did it.
    • Oh no stuck bearing race

    • Break out the die grinder with cutoff wheel
    • Grind the race - trying not to cut into the hub - I got mine a little

    • Use a large chisel to crack the race - do this by putting it in the cut and smacking it with the hammer
    • Then you should be able to pop the race loose

    • Now it should come right off


    Better stop now since I hit my second limit of 10 pictures.

    Let me know if I left anything out.
    Install in reverse order as removed. I am not just saying that. Everything goes together perfect that way.
    1998 Contour SVT Black w/ Blue interior
    (updated 6/22/07)
    #720 of 6535
    My Little Store - (3L/SVT LIM Plates and Steeda Shifter Riser Plate)

  • #2
    Wow, great write up, thanks! It's sounding like I need to replace my passenger side front or rear wheel bearing? Or maybe its the highways in Oregon . I saw you commenting on the rust and believe me that's NOTHING try this same thing on a car from anywhere in the Midwest (especially MI or IL) and holy crap it's a rustfest, even with only 40,000 mi. The SVT I just bought was in WA it's whole life and it is totally rust free with 123K on it . I swear, if I still ived in MI and bought the same care there it would be covered!
    My DD: '99 Black/MNB Contour SVT #901
    Wife's DD: '07 Black Ford Edge SEL plus
    Previous: '99 Black Cougar, 3.0L swap w/SVT goodies, HMS trans w/Quaife, and much much more!

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    • #3
      I think the only part you're leaving out is when you go to press the hub back in, you have to brace or support the inner race on the back side with something. If you don't as you press in the hub it will most likely push the inner race out the back side of the knuckle.
      98 Mercury Mystique LS 2.5L MTX 141k
      88 Katana 600cc 5200k

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      • #4
        Great write up here...

        Just one extra tip... When pressing the hub into the new bearing, make sure you support the race on the inner side of the knuckle, as that half of the bearing can pop out while the hub goes in, rendering your new pressed in bearing useless!
        learned that one the hard way!
        98.5 CSVT Silverfrost Build # 6291
        Soon to be Supercharged!!!

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by jd2-98s View Post
          I think the only part you're leaving out is when you go to press the hub back in, you have to brace or support the inner race on the back side with something. If you don't as you press in the hub it will most likely push the inner race out the back side of the knuckle.
          Originally posted by aircougar View Post
          Great write up here...

          Just one extra tip... When pressing the hub into the new bearing, make sure you support the race on the inner side of the knuckle, as that half of the bearing can pop out while the hub goes in, rendering your new pressed in bearing useless!
          learned that one the hard way!
          I guess I bypassed that issue by pressing the knuckle with the bearing in it down onto the hub. I pressed on the inner race. I had forgotten to take a picture of that thou, sorry.

          Wonder way they did not put the part one and two together into one thread? Oh well.
          1998 Contour SVT Black w/ Blue interior
          (updated 6/22/07)
          #720 of 6535
          My Little Store - (3L/SVT LIM Plates and Steeda Shifter Riser Plate)

          Comment


          • #6
            When I have done bearings I use a small grinder to cut the race on the bearing carrier instead of using a press. Works like removing the race on the hub. One other thing i've found out. There is very lettle grease inside one of those new bearings. The last one I did I took the new bearing apart, it takes only a screw driver and a small hammer. One the bearings & seals are out I clean up the insalled grease and repack them with a high quality wheel bearing grease. I also put almost twice as much grease in there as to how them came from the factory. If any leaks out I wouldn't sweat it.
            '00' SVT Contour
            '87' VW ITA 16V Scirocco race car

            "Drag racing is for those drivers who can't brake and downshift at the same time."

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            • #7
              i quoted you post in this thread and pasted it in a reply to the first thread. Here is hoping a mod will approve the post
              Last edited by LUCA; 03-22-2011, 02:56 PM. Reason: Approved post in: Wheel Bearing replacement -with pictures

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              • #8
                Some of the newer models including Cougars don't have an outer retaining clip. So the inner race almost always comes out with the hub. The other problem I have is without the outer retaining clip means you have to press the bearing in from the outside of the knuckle because you only have an inner retaining clip. This makes it very difficult to balance the knuckle because of the odd shape. Anyone have any suggestions on how to do this?
                3L 99 Rio Red MTX , 91 306 Dech Coupe, 99 3L Turbo Cougar, 2013 Edge, 05 Eddie Bauer Expedition, 01 Yamaha R6, 08 Escape*Sold*, 96 Contour*Sold*, 99 Black 3L Cougar *Sold*
                02 Ex-World Challenge Cougar Nummelin Motorsport Group
                www.roadawareness.org

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                • #9
                  If you get a good pressfit technically you don't even need the snap ring. You can use it on either end as a location stop for bearing when pressing it in whichever is easiest. I use the snap ring on the outside to help guard the bearing side seal from rocks, etc.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Maverickflyer View Post
                    Some of the newer models including Cougars don't have an outer retaining clip. So the inner race almost always comes out with the hub. The other problem I have is without the outer retaining clip means you have to press the bearing in from the outside of the knuckle because you only have an inner retaining clip. This makes it very difficult to balance the knuckle because of the odd shape. Anyone have any suggestions on how to do this?
                    If you look at some of the pictures I have you can see how I balanced it (outside down). You should able to balance it in the same fashion flipped over, so you can press the bearing out the inside.
                    1998 Contour SVT Black w/ Blue interior
                    (updated 6/22/07)
                    #720 of 6535
                    My Little Store - (3L/SVT LIM Plates and Steeda Shifter Riser Plate)

                    Comment

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