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Classified Rules, READ BEFORE POSTING! - Updated 7.29.2015

Any transactions you complete here are at your own risk. CEG is in no way responsible.

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  1. You must be registered for 60 days to post in the classifieds. This isn't anything that a moderator or Administrator can over-ride, so don't bother asking.
    NOTE: The forum has been having problems allowing certain users to post once they reach 60 days. If you can't post, try clearing your cookies. If that doesn't work, PM one of the classifieds mods.
  2. Classified ads need to include a price, location, and need to be actual FS or WTB ads, not "feelers." If you do not have a proper (i.e. city and state) location in your profile, you must add it to every classifieds post you make.
  3. You must notify a mod, either through a post or PM, if your item is sold/found so we may lock the thread. This helps everyone know what items are no longer available. A thread will be locked only by request of the original poster.
  4. You may post eBay auctions or Craigslist ads only if they are YOURS. Include the list price, location, etc. Posting just a link to the auction will be deleted.
  5. Please keep non-Contour parts in the "Misc" section.
  6. Anything "wanted to buy" MUST be labeled with "WTB".
  7. If you have multiple items for sale, please divide them up in the correct forums.
  8. If you see a problem with a post or person, notify a mod either through the "notify mod" button or send a quick PM.
DO NOT
Unless noted, rule violations will receive a warning the first time and an infraction subsequent times.
  1. Do not cross post your item in multiple areas. Cross posts will be deleted and the user will receive an infraction.
  2. Do not post non-relevant posts in someone's thread. We have received many complaints about clutter in the classifieds. If you want to "chat" about an item, take it to PM's.
    EXAMPLES: If I were closer, I'd buy it; GLWS; If you decide to ship it, I want it; If you decide to part it, let me know; I've seen this car in person...etc.
    Replies can include: Will this fit my SE?; Is that a broken tab?; How many miles?. Legitimate questions! The seller may answer those questions.
  3. After an agreement has been made, all shipping talk should be via PM. You may put shipping options in the original post.
  4. Do not post negative comments about an item. If somebody wants $20k from a Contour, let them try.
  5. Bumping. After two weeks (14 days), you may post "Bump" to bump your item back to the top. If you bump before the two week period, the bump will be deleted, and you will get a warning. Do it a second time, your thread will be deleted and you will get an infraction. Information updates, price changes, etc. are allowed.
    Updates/price changes DO NOT include: "still have this", "Price is the same, not lowering it".
    Updates/Price changes include: I dropped the headlight and it now has a broken tab. If you have multiple items, for example: 4 IMRC covers... you may post that you now have 3 left. *Price dropped from $125. to $100.
Threads that do not follow all the above rules will be deleted. If your thread is deleted, do not start another one unless you include the required information and are willing to adhere to the rules.
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2000 Contour SVT Blk/MNB

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  • FS: For Sale 2000 Contour SVT Blk/MNB

    Hi all,

    Been ages since I've been on the forum, and a bit since I've driven my Contour (life has a funny way of working out), which brings me to making this thread.

    I'm posting here before any other online methods as I'd really like this vehicle to go to someone on the board who will want to work with a great vehicle and do the small things necessary to bring it back to it's former glory. That and it has some great documentation and dare I say a bit of history. I'd love to keep it, but have been working at an OEM the past couple years, and what I get to drive, I really can't justify keeping the Contour. I don't want to sell it to some who's going to abuse it and beat it to death and just crush it. It deserves to survive.

    The vehicle itself 2000 Contour SVT, Black on Midnight Blue. 107,629mi on the clock.

    Original Michigan car from Royal Oak Ford. Imported it myself into Windsor in 2007 where it now lies. The 2nd owner (2001-2007) whom I bought it from is the gent accompanying Ken Block in this recent Ford Performance YouTube video featuring the Ford GT (if you know Nick, he might remember the canuck that bought his CSVT), Original owner only owned it to hold him out until his delivery of 2001 Cobra. Have all the paperwork that shows this. Amongst the paperwork is.original window sticker, all original tags (belts, airbags inertia switch etc.), original build sheet, SVT Certificate, original finance estimate and paperwork. Brochure

    The Good
    - Rebuilt Trans (purchased back in the day from Reebs) with a Torsen diff (approx 20k miles), filled with Royal Purple
    - Interior in excellent shape, worst thing is wear on driver's side original SVT mat (passenger excellent condition). Front seats are great, passenger almost perfect and rear never sat in.
    - Two sets (8) of Original E1 SVT wheels each w/ 4 center caps one with Dunlop WinterSports which need replacing and good Condition Toyo Proxes4 on the other set
    - ATE rotors and pads all around w/ under 2k miles
    - Current cluth at approx 50k miles, previously replaced by previous owner
    - new KYB rear struts w/ new mounts and sway bar bushings
    - Updated fuel pump done a while ago
    - Rockers and side skirts still there w/ all 4 Jackpoint Covers
    - Bumpers in relatively good shape (back good, front has mesh broken on driver's side)
    - Insane amount of paperwork from repairs, to parts, to almost anything imaginable
    - Driver's side control arm newer
    - Tie Rod ends newer (moog with greasable fittings)
    - Newer endlinks
    - Upgraded Sunroof Gear Motor (sunroof works great and doesn't leak)

    The Indifferent
    - Headlights have been hightowered (resealed and have never leaked since 07)
    - Knauberized (still have strips)
    - SVT overlays on Ford ovals (FR,RR, Steering wheel center)
    - Kenwood head unit w/ Internal Amp By-pass (have original HU still and bypass done with harness so completely reversible)
    - OEM Wheel Locks w/ Key


    The Bad
    - A/C doesn't work (front condenser near the radiator got a rock hole, system was fine previous to this)
    - Needs front struts (ordered all 4 at the same time, but new job and no time to install = sold them @ cost locally)
    - Rust starting, but for a Contour of this age in the area, I'd say it's pretty decent. Nothing is poke through, surface at this point and not very extensive
    - IMRC needs either the fix applied or replaced. I've checked linkage, I've replaced the grommets, checked the arm and everything is fine there (top end clean has been done so it's not even the butterflies sticking)
    - Powersteering slightly leaks
    - Dent on driver fender (2x4 fell on it in garage), various other small dings I wouldn't call out of place for a car this age.

    I've been very honest in this article, pointing out almost everything I can think of including defects, The bad part might make it sound like a POS, but it's far from it, and as I've said I'd really like to see someone buy this and want to fix it up and not just part it out or trash it.

    I'll need to get pics up ASAP as this vehicle currently sleeps back home at my relatives place in the garage a 4hr drive away,

    Last but not least, looking for 1500$. can help if anyone wants to bring it states side. Very easy as originally a US vehicle.

    If anyone has questions, feel free to ask!

    Cheers,

    Al

    1996 DGGM Impala SS-Bone stock

    2000 CSVT #361 Born 11/17/99 Built MTX-75 w/ Torsen

    2001 Grand Prix GTP 3.25" Pulley/XP Cam/TOG Headers/GMPP Koni/BAER Track+ F&R/DHP RIP :(
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