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Severe torque steer

SE7ENTH_SIGN

New CEG'er
Joined
Jan 8, 2009
Messages
19
Location
CT
In changing my struts I discovered just about everything was bad. So I changed struts and mounts, tie rod ends, sway bar links and lower control arms. I now have sever torque steer. I've been searching forums but haven't found what I could have screwed up. Any ideas?

Thanx.
 
The handling is improved... until I press or come off of the gas.. We just put in a 3.0 with a LSD. I thought the LSD would minimize the torque steer... I'm at a loss... I'm assuming I didn't pull the driver side CV joint out.
 
What else do you have done suspension wise? My car has insane tracking with all the stiff suspension done. Even at no throttle it pulls pretty hard left/right
 
slightly lowered springs is the only "upgrade", new shocks, (kyb)... haven't done the backs yet new ball joints, sway bar links, tie rod ends. I can look at the rol resistors but the torque steer really didn't become pronounced until these changes.
 
Here is a very good article on torque steer - http://www.aa1car.com/library/torque_steer.htm
I would suggest the old "cause and effect" - if (torque steer) wasn't there before (or as pronounced) and not it is. After reading the aforementioned, I must admit I wasn't aware that something as simple as engine alignment in a FWD vehicle could impact torque steer. Obviously you want to make sure that under a straight line, feathered throttle condition, that basic mis-alignment is not what you are experiencing. After replacing the suspension components you mention, an alignment is in order (4 wheel variety, not simple toe-in/toe-out of front wheels).
 
What kind of differential?

New 4-wheel alignment after all that suspension work? Front toe out can exacerbate torque steer.

New wheels and tires maybe? Wider wheels and tires can move the scrub radius positive, this makes for more torque steer.
 
Alignment was done right after work was finished (4 wheel variety). New control arms/bushings. Same wheels as before the work (less than 200 miles on them). I did read the article indicated. The only thing I haven't tried was the drive line alignment. Considering the dealership no longer stocks ball joint pinch bolts for my car (ask me how I know), I fear what they will say when I inquire about a drive line alignment.

The differential is Torsen. I was also concerned that perhaps I pulled the CV joint out during my work. It happened on the passenger side (boot popped off) but I was able to reassemble it. Question... with the passenger side of a LSD disconnected, will the driver side still turn?
 
On a side note: It's not unheard of to buy "new" control arms and have the bushings go bad within a few miles. Happened to me last year. Especially if they are of the aftermarket variety...
 
No luck. The original problem was a faulty tie-rod end, since then I've replaced the inner tierods, and front/rear roll resistors. Next up is the drivers side engine mount (if I can find the right one)
 
For the record, it turned out to be a faulty (new) lower control arm. All is working as expected now. Thanx for your help.
 
No luck. The original problem was a faulty tie-rod end, since then I've replaced the inner tierods, and front/rear roll resistors. Next up is the drivers side engine mount (if I can find the right one)
 
No luck. The original problem was a faulty tie-rod end, since then I've replaced the inner tierods, and front/rear roll resistors. Next up is the drivers side engine mount (if I can find the right one)
 
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