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Moog 2 bolt control arm bolt

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  • Moog 2 bolt control arm bolt

    Howdy fellas. I bought a Moog front end kit which came with control arms and inner and outer tie rods. Main thing I've been worried about was the DS control arm bolts because as ya'll should know, the bolts are right under the transmission housing and have to be cut if you don't want to drop the subframe. I was searching for new bolts until the Moog kit showed up today... each control arm came with 1 10.9 grade bolt which is 2 and a quarter inch long. Are these new control arm bolts or what?


    The only thing that worries me is they aren't much longer than the bushings



    What do ya'll think? I'd prefer to not have to pay the price for new bolts as I have heard they're pricey...

    Thanks!

  • #2
    The bolts Moog supplied are for the knuckle pinch at the ball joint stud, Ford considers the knuckle pinch bolts to be one time use, so you should replace them.

    If memory serves (and I just verified this going upstairs to the garage and measuring an in-place bolt on my 99 CSVT...), the bolts for the inboard A-arm bushings are 80mm, so about 3&1/8" from under the head to the bolt end, and those bolts and nuts can be re-used.
    I collect Ford's Red-headed step children.
    1985 SVO Mustang (turbocharged track rat)
    1989 Taurus SHO (supercharged track rat)
    1999 SVT Contour (Sedanus-Grocerygetter-Rapidus)
    2008 Mercury Milan Premier (Comfy boat)

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    • #3
      Originally posted by gmorrell View Post
      The bolts Moog supplied are for the knuckle pinch at the ball joint stud, Ford considers the knuckle pinch bolts to be one time use, so you should replace them.

      If memory serves (and I just verified this going upstairs to the garage and measuring an in-place bolt on my 99 CSVT...), the bolts for the inboard A-arm bushings are 80mm, so about 3&1/8" from under the head to the bolt end, and those bolts and nuts can be re-used.
      Is there a place online that I can get a control arm bolt? I knoe they're reusable, but I was going to cut the one under the transmission so that I could change the arm without dropping the subframe or jacking up the engine and transmission. I may just have to go to the junkyard and get one, unless someone on here has an extra they would sell me haha

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      • #4
        I would just match it up with an equivalent grade 5 bolt from the hardware store.
        2k SVTC - Black / Praire Tan, blu_fuz ported 3.0L, 58k motor, 118k chassis

        http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/attach...chmentid=16333

        Comment


        • #5
          The OP lives in/near Atlanta, yes? Big city, there must be a goodly number of fastener suppliers there (Fastenal anyone?). These are mission critical suspension bolts, please get a class 10.9, 80mm bolt, preferably made in the USA, or suck it up and buy them from Ford. The counterman at a reputable bolt store will be able to tell you the origin of the bolt. Then buy or borrow a proper torque wrench, lubricate the threads and set them to the proper torque.

          If you're insistent about purchasing online, here, box of 10 for 12 Bucks plus the freight. Replace all your bolts and give some to your friends.

          These un-threaded shank bolts are really optimal for this application, as a fully threaded bolt is not only unnecessary, but is also not as strong in shear and an un-threaded shank bolt.

          https://www.mcmaster.com/#98093a777/=17p0hel
          I collect Ford's Red-headed step children.
          1985 SVO Mustang (turbocharged track rat)
          1989 Taurus SHO (supercharged track rat)
          1999 SVT Contour (Sedanus-Grocerygetter-Rapidus)
          2008 Mercury Milan Premier (Comfy boat)

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by gmorrell View Post
            The OP lives in/near Atlanta, yes? Big city, there must be a goodly number of fastener suppliers there (Fastenal anyone?). These are mission critical suspension bolts, please get a class 10.9, 80mm bolt, preferably made in the USA, or suck it up and buy them from Ford. The counterman at a reputable bolt store will be able to tell you the origin of the bolt. Then buy or borrow a proper torque wrench, lubricate the threads and set them to the proper torque.

            If you're insistent about purchasing online, here, box of 10 for 12 Bucks plus the freight. Replace all your bolts and give some to your friends.

            These un-threaded shank bolts are really optimal for this application, as a fully threaded bolt is not only unnecessary, but is also not as strong in shear and an un-threaded shank bolt.

            https://www.mcmaster.com/#98093a777/=17p0hel
            I'm actually from Attalla Alabama. But thank you for the link, if I can't find them at Fastenal then I will go that route. Sadly just figured out that my RMS is pouring oil like crazy. Hate that I just spent 900$ on suspension parts and a timing belt replacement just to find out it'll take 650 for a shop to change the RMS. Should of just bought another car, probably. But on to the next broken part haha. Definitely will use 10.9. 5 isn't near enough. And I have a torque wrench thankfully. Thank you for the help!

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            • #7
              gmorrell's advice is better than mine! I never thought you could walk in and get a single bolt from Fastenal. I'm going to try that next time I round off a bolt with my bare (bear?) hands...
              2k SVTC - Black / Praire Tan, blu_fuz ported 3.0L, 58k motor, 118k chassis

              http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/attach...chmentid=16333

              Comment

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