+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2
1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: Engine oil priming ?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    942

    Default Engine oil priming ?

    How do you prime your engines with oil after a rebuild, before you start it or when you time the cams?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Southeast Michigan
    Posts
    2,368

    Default

    BEfore you start it. Our oil pumps are self priming, so all you have to do is pull the fuel pump relay and crank the engine to build oil pressure. I however, didn't build any oil pressure at all after 10 minutes of on/off cranking when I installed my 3L. The oil didn't even make it to my oil filter (1st port of call so to say) and so I made a contraption to force oil back to the oil pump (using air pressure from my compressor) to help prime the so called "self priming" oil pump. Then I built up oil pressure after 3 seconds of cranking.
    98.5 T Red SVT #4636/6535 ... SVT cam'd 3L Turbo

    Owned 28 SVT's, looking for my 29th. Need SVT Parts? PM me!

    PM me for engine/trans/suspension swaps, etc... 3 Liter Swaps done RIGHT!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Posts
    540

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Reebs View Post
    BEfore you start it. Our oil pumps are self priming, so all you have to do is pull the fuel pump relay and crank the engine to build oil pressure. I however, didn't build any oil pressure at all after 10 minutes of on/off cranking when I installed my 3L. The oil didn't even make it to my oil filter (1st port of call so to say) and so I made a contraption to force oil back to the oil pump (using air pressure from my compressor) to help prime the so called "self priming" oil pump. Then I built up oil pressure after 3 seconds of cranking.
    That's weird. I built pressure after about 10 seconds of priming. Well at least you got the job done.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Southeast Michigan
    Posts
    2,368

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DyComet View Post
    That's weird. I built pressure after about 10 seconds of priming. Well at least you got the job done.
    Defenitly was weird. That was a first for me. Never had that problem before but it did scare the crap out of me. I would have had to pull 90% of my turbo kit to drop the freaken oil pan to check the pickup! The pump wouldn't have been a fun one either!
    98.5 T Red SVT #4636/6535 ... SVT cam'd 3L Turbo

    Owned 28 SVT's, looking for my 29th. Need SVT Parts? PM me!

    PM me for engine/trans/suspension swaps, etc... 3 Liter Swaps done RIGHT!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    SoCal - Go Lakers!
    Posts
    507

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by eepals View Post
    How do you prime your engines with oil after a rebuild, before you start it or when you time the cams?
    *Mash* the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there while you turn the key & crank it.

    Per Stazi, this is an idiot switch so you don't flood the engine prior to starting.

    HTH.
    -Chuck Dienzo

    Black 98.5 E1 SVT #5022 of 6535
    Born March 16, 1998, Died Dec. 6, 2008
    Re-Born March 28, 2009

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Southeast Michigan
    Posts
    2,368

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vudusvt View Post
    *Mash* the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there while you turn the key & crank it.

    Per Stazi, this is an idiot switch so you don't flood the engine prior to starting.

    HTH.

    Pulling the fuel pump relay does the same thing. If you do it "stazi style," unplug the coil pack as well so it won't fire up.
    98.5 T Red SVT #4636/6535 ... SVT cam'd 3L Turbo

    Owned 28 SVT's, looking for my 29th. Need SVT Parts? PM me!

    PM me for engine/trans/suspension swaps, etc... 3 Liter Swaps done RIGHT!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Posts
    540

    Default

    I did it stazi style as well. It seems a bit easier than pulling the fuel pump relay. Unplug the coil pack, push the gas pedal and crank it over. If you don't have an oil pressure guage to monitor oil pressure I'd crank it over a couple times just to make sure that your engine is primed before startup.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    942

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Reebs View Post

    Before you start it. Our oil pumps are self priming, ...

    I however, didn't build any oil pressure at all after 10 minutes of on/off cranking when I installed my 3L....

    After I timed the cams, I put approx 3 qts. of oil in the sump and tried to build oil pressure. No luck. I had the engine on a stand and since I was rotating the engine on the stand cleaning the block, I completely drained all oil from the pump. As I have now learned it is better to turn the engine upside down and pour oil directly into the oil pick-up tube. Now after I install the engine I'm pretty certain I'll get oil pressure quickly. Plus with out oil pressure the chain tensioners don't work. Even after I got oil pressure the tensioner on the right bank wouldn't pump up. I'm glad I didn't install the engine then find this out.
    I ordered new tensioners today.

  9. #9

    Default

    I dont think your tensioners will take up any kind of slack by hand priming the motor. they will instantly once you start cranking the car over though...


    US23


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    942

    Default

    Hand priming worked for me, it took about a few minutes, because the gallery that feeds that tensioner I replaced was empty. I did have to pull out the tensioner pawl one click before it worked properly. After a while I had oil dripping from the heads, everything was lubed. You can even see a tiny stream of oil, that shots out of each tensioner, on to the surface of the aluminum chain guide the tensioner piston rides against.

    PS I posted another thread in Troubleshoting, asking a question that I should have posted here.
    Before I fully disassembled the engine I used a 14.4 volt drill to turn over the engine, without the spark plugs installed, now the drill wouldn't budge it. I wonder if the head gaskets where leaking worse than I thought. Not just leaking oil.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2
1 2 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts