My full oval port 3L thread

[SJon85]

Originally Posted by BAD SVT

oh yeah! that one. my bad. i meant the other. yeah, i was having issues with bank 1 as well. i think i explained what i did in that thread.

Yea you said something about being able to push the valves down to set the cams at the right position or something like that.

[SJon85]

TIMING IS SET!!! after...like two months now I think
I turned the crank clockwise all the way around a couple times with no problems(timing is good right?)

But of course there is one problem. I noticed some slack in the bank one chain as I was turning the crank. In other words at a certain point there would be slack causing space between the chain guide and the chain like seen in the pic below. At that same point the arm with the spring in the tensioner would compress back into the tensioner. So obviously the tensioner isn't working correctly, anyone else have this problem? I guess I will try to reinstall the tensioner and see what that does, after I take a break that is.



*EDIT: Kk so I went back and did the timing all over again to see if that would fix the tensioner issue. It is still doing the same thing but not as bad, and now it's doing it on the other bank. So both banks have a tiny bit of slack in the chains when I rotate the crank, and the larger arm on both tensioners moves back into the tensioner a little bit on every rotation. So my conclusion is when the oil gets into those tensioners when i go to start it then those arms will stiffen up and there will be no slack, correct me if I am wrong, and preferably before I get the timing cover on in a few days.

[SJon85]

Here is a write up that I did for the timing, I just did it so there might be some spelling errors or some mistakes that I will fix later. Also I posted this in the duratec how to section, please go there to correct me if I am wrong on anything.

Removal of bank 1 timing equipment:
-remove the two 10mm bolts on the bank 1 tensioner to remove the entire tensioner
-remove the chain guide that the tensioner was tensioning (should slide right off)
-at this point you chain be able to remove the bank 1 chain
-remove the crank sprocket that the bank 1 chain was on
-remove the two 10mm bolts that are holding the second chain guide for bank 1
-keep all of these parts together for the install

Removal of bank 2 timing equipment:
-remove the two 10mm bolts on the bank 2 tensioner to remove the entire tensioner
-remove the chain guide that the tensioner was tensioning (should slide right off)
-at this point you chain be able to remove the bank 2 chain
-remove the crank sprocket that the bank 2 chain was on
-remove the two 10mm bolts that are holding the second chain guide for bank 2
-keep all of these parts together for the install

Tensioner procedures:
-using some large pliers compress the larger silver/gold rod into the tensioner almost all the way down into the tensioner (if the rod will not compress that far you might have to remove it and drain some oil out)
-with the larger rod compressed use a small screw driver to slide into the larger hole on the side of the tensioner, move the top of the screw driver in the direction that the pliers should be, this will allow you to compress the smaller black rod into the tensioner
-now you should be able to slide a piece of wire into the smaller hole on the tensioner locking both rods in place

Camshaft removal:
-label each camshaft cap to be sure that each cap is then installed in the same place that you removed it
-remove the 8mm bolts that hold down each cam cap
-remove each cam cap (again be sure they are labeled and ready to install in the exact spot that each one was removed)
-remove camshaft (make sure you note that bank 2 requires the two camshafts that have the water pump pulley, and the cam that has a bulge on the side of the chain disk)

Camshaft install:
-place engine assembly lube on the camshaft where the cam will contact the cam cap and the head
-install the camshaft (be sure that each cam is in the correct place, ie the water pump pulley cam and the cam that has the bulge on the side of the chain disk)
-install each cam cap in the exact order and place that each cap was removed
-install the 8mm bolts on the cam caps (leave these fairly loose for now)
-place each cam to its specific angle like seen in the pic below (use the holes in the side of the cam chain disk)

-now torque the 8mm bolts on the cam caps down to 7ft-lbs without letting the cams move at all from the angle they are at (there is also a sequence you should follow when torquing those bolts down that you can find in the haynes manuel)

*Note that you should only remove and install one cam at a time to decrease the chance of mistake. In other words follow these steps above for each individual camshaft.

Setting the crank at top dead center:
-slide a long screw driver down into the cylinder one spark plug hole with care
-rotate the crank until the screw driver is at it’s highest point, the crank keyway should now be in the 11o-clock position indicating top dead center
-the crank should now not move from this point until the timing is done

Installing bank 2 timing equipment:
-install bank 2 crank sprocket
-install bank 2 chain with the marks on the chain lining up with the marks on both cams and the mark on the crank sprocket that is opposite of the crank keyway (if the chain marks don’t line up you might have to loosen the cams and rotate/adjust them so that the marks do line up on the crank and the cams, make sure you do NOT move the crank at all, and make sure you torque those cam bolts back down after adjusting the cams)
-install the chain guide that has the two 10mm bolts holding it down, torque these two 10mm bolts down to 20ft-lbs
-install the second chain guide (this one should slide right on)
-install the chain tensioner with the two 10mm bolts, torque these bolts down to 20ft-lbs
-now pull the wire out of the tensioner to put tension on the chain

Installing bank 1 timing equipment:
-install bank 1 crank sprocket
-install bank 1 chain with the marks on the chain lining up with the marks on both cams and the mark on the crank sprocket that is opposite of the crank keyway (if the chain marks don’t line up you might have to loosen the cams and rotate/adjust them so that the marks do line up on the crank and the cams, make sure you do NOT move the crank at all, and make sure you torque those cam bolts back down after adjusting the cams)
-install the chain guide that has the two 10mm bolts holding it down, torque these two 10mm bolts down to 20ft-lbs
-install the second chain guide (this one should slide right on)
-install the chain tensioner with the two 10mm bolts, torque these bolts down to 20ft-lbs
-now pull the wire out of the tensioner to put tension on the chain

Checking timing accuracy:
-with the 18mm crank pulley bolt installed, use an 18mm wrench to turn the crank clockwise
-if the crank spins freely all the way around a couple times you have done it right and are done
-if the crank will not spin all the way around you have done something wrong, repeat all your steps and try again, if that doesn’t work then I don’t know what to tell you.