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Need some Full 3L pictures

Bugzuki

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
May 8, 2004
Messages
586
Location
Monroe, WA
Hey Everyone.

I would like to see some close up pictures of what you did on your Full 3L for the following:

  • Throttle cable bracket
  • EGR tube
  • Fuel line - return and returnless
  • Anything else you had to do to get things to fit and work.

Thanks (I searched but all the pictures I found were of the whole engine or engine compartment).
 
Hey Everyone.

I would like to see some close up pictures of what you did on your Full 3L for the following:

  • Throttle cable bracket
  • EGR tube
  • Fuel line - return and returnless
  • Anything else you had to do to get things to fit and work.

Thanks (I searched but all the pictures I found were of the whole engine or engine compartment).
Don't ask for my engine then. :laugh:
Throttle cable bracket is a 3.0 (no cruise, 1/2 throttle is full etc)
ERG tube is deleted
Fuel line - Pud came up with an interesting way to connect it...he can explain better if he wants.
 
Don't ask for my engine then. :laugh:
Throttle cable bracket is a 3.0 (no cruise, 1/2 throttle is full etc)
ERG tube is deleted
Fuel line - Pud came up with an interesting way to connect it...he can explain better if he wants.

Alright, you may be excused from posting pics.

Everyone else get them up here! Please
 
This thread shows how I did a full 3L turbo (NPG kit). Had to fab the throttle bracket, EGR, & fuel rail. Unfortunately, the owner needed it back quickly, so it wasn't the cleanest install. That coupled with having to cut & re-weld the downpipe at the wastegate bypass... IIRC, he's still struggling with a tune because he has yet to get it on a dyno at the shop here in NoVA that's qualified to do the work (they tuned my turbo and a 3L S/C I built. That thread here).
 
This thread shows how I did a full 3L turbo (NPG kit). Had to fab the throttle bracket, EGR, & fuel rail. Unfortunately, the owner needed it back quickly, so it wasn't the cleanest install. That coupled with having to cut & re-weld the downpipe at the wastegate bypass... IIRC, he's still struggling with a tune because he has yet to get it on a dyno at the shop here in NoVA that's qualified to do the work (they tuned my turbo and a 3L S/C I built. That thread here).

Eeek. I saw Precision Turbo and thought about the horrible eBay ripoffs. Tell me I'm way off!
 
Eeek. I saw Precision Turbo and thought about the horrible eBay ripoffs. Tell me I'm way off!

Hope not. That was an NPG kit.

Bugzuki: Found some more pics, may be helpful to you.

EGR Tube fabrication. Basically spliced together the 3L and 2.5L tube so that I had the DPFE sample leads plus enough length to reach up and through to the front of the UIM:

01EGRTube.jpg


Welded a piece of plate steel to the end to provide a mating surface to the EGR valve, and threaded the holes:

02EGRTube.jpg


Came up right where I needed it to use the stock 3L EGR valve:

03EGRTube.jpg


Fuel rail: We used a hunk of 3/8" SS brake line, and silver brazed connections and used compression fittings to mate it together. We used the 3L rail, cut off the stock connection, drilled a hole in the other end of it to act as the return, and silver brazed a brass elbow to each side of it:

04FuelRail.jpg


We then bent the SS line around and back to where we'd cut a stock 2.5L rail off, and mated the two together:

05FuelRail.jpg


06FuelRail.jpg


Fit nicely:

07FuelRail.jpg


08FuelRail.jpg


The thing didn't leak 1 iota until the owner had driven almost the entire way from DC back to Atlanta. I guess there was a pocket of flux from the silver brazing that the gasoline finally ate through. As I said, we didn't have time for a shakedown before the guy had to go back home...

TB Bracket: Hacked the ends off a stock 3L bracket leaving only the mounting holes and a place to mount the similarly hacked piece of a 2.5L bracket. Cut a triangular brace out of what was left, and welded the whole thing together (I love TIGing):

09TBBracket.jpg


10TBBracket.jpg


I had to effectively make the stock 3L TB cam larger in circumference, so I dremeled holes through it and used stainless nails as a "guide" of sorts to make the outer track wide enough to use the SVT throttle cable.
 
Dan, Thanks for the sweet pictures. And thanks for the kind words and use of the Intake (Bugzuki) plates.
 
I had a problem building my own fuel rail, i have no patience so i just had joey next day me his LIM mod, and used an 05 escape fuel rail. on the other end i had blackcoog shorten it up a little bit we just cut it off and bent it over and used silver solder and map gas to seal er' up. here's the fuel system.

DSC03304.jpg




this is the engine bay the day after i got it running. since then i had repainted the TB bracket (stock SVT bracket just made to fit the 65mm TB with two bolts, cruise was maintained :) ) the big clear tube is my PCV. i had problems with oil blowback at SZ 08 and it went back to the PCV being too small. i have since shortened that tube so it doesn't look so excessive, and put a black wire loom over it. the EGR was deleted but i still have to get the delete kit for the cover up plate, so the EGR solenoid is still there in this pic.

DSC03306.jpg


i have other pics too. some of them are of the engine very dirty. its not tuned so i have to delete the IMRC, finish deleting the EGR, and change the front valve cover to the 04 style again, or a plastic one. i will be turboing the car this spring and finishing up the cosmetic portion of the engine bay and i can show you more then ;)
 
Nice rail pics Dan. That's exactly how I built all the rails for my full 3L swaps. The silver braze works great. I've never had one leak on me.

As you know we also love the plates. We've burned through quite a few now.

I normally build my EGR tubes using the lower half of the 2.5L tube and the upper half of the 3L tube. In the EGR tube picture below you can see where I cut both so they line up. I used a 5/8" compression fitting to join the two together. Welding is preferred as those fittings aren't perfect.

The engine picture below shows a finished 3L from back in 2006. You can see the fuel rail running in front of the intake manifold. I also used a SVT throttle body bracket flipped up side down. I use a 3L upper intake manifold spacer (remove the bolt from it) and use it to bolt the lower portion of the bracket down to the water bypass pipe. It seems to hold the bracket fairly well and didn't require any welding or cutting. The cruise control cable did require a zip tie because it was too short to reach. Welding a 3L and 2.5L bracket together would be the best option but my way does work.

The engine picture of the red one below is another one I built back in 2006. You can see the fuel rail in this picture and the svt throttle body bracket as well.

In the bracket picture below I did cut part of this bracket and paint it black to make it look a bit cleaner on this particular install.

I have more pictures on my home computer if you need something specific.
 
Thanks for all of the new pictures, since I looked last time. Now, I just need some time to work on my car.
 
The stock 3 liter bracket will work for the TB cable - you'll just need to ditch cruise control and the ratio of pedal to throttle is about skewed. This was temporary for me, I had planned on getting the bracket done when I got ahold of a welder.

For fuel, pick up a nautilus fuel block and use the stock 04+ fuel rail.


EGR - Dump it. I could never bring myself to put that POS back in. you can either do the crush fitting using a combo of the 3 liter EGR and the 2.5. Or you could make that ugly pipe / plate thing that was posted earlier :barf: (no offense, its jus tnot aesthetically pleasing)
 
There adapter is for the full swap. It makes the returnless 3.0L fuel line work with the 2.5L return fuel lines from the tank.
 
Cool. Hey Blackcoog - in both of the engines you posted, it looks like you retained the IMRC. Does the 00-03 manifold have secondaries, then?
 
Cool. Hey Blackcoog - in both of the engines you posted, it looks like you retained the IMRC. Does the 00-03 manifold have secondaries, then?

I would imagine he just left it on until it can be turned off in the tune.
 
I would imagine he just left it on until it can be turned off in the tune.

Correct the IMRC is only in place to eliminate the check engine light that will pop if removed. The cable pulls on a spring near the strut tower as the cable needs tension as well or it will pop a check engine light.
 
There adapter is for the full swap. It makes the returnless 3.0L fuel line work with the 2.5L return fuel lines from the tank.

The NPG fuel block is used for any swap into a return style cdw-27 that utilizes the 3L returnless fuel rail, so it is also for return style SVT's using the NPG LIM with the SVT UIM. The NPG LIM obviously requires the returnless 3L fuel rail, therefore needing the adapter. But yes, this comes just as handy in full 3L swaps.
 
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