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Mileliminator(s) installation

T

Tony2005

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Jun 18, 2005
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You can order ready made mileliminators from
http://www.nautilusperformance.com/catalog/c12_p1.html

1) Drive up Rhino ramps ($40 at Advance). Or jack up the car and put on jack stands.

2) Disconnect battery negative terminal.

3) Go under and unplug connectors and then unscrew both (if a Duratec; one if it is a Zetec) BOTTOM O2 sensors (22mm or 7/8 inch crescent wrench $7. You can buy a O2 sensor socket if you want, $12 at Advance).

4) In the comfort of kitchen table, splice (wire splice connectors $3) the mileliminators to the O2 sensor wires (clear and explicit instructions come with the mileliminators). Tape connection well with duct tape (water in connectors will give you P0136 or P0156 CEL codes).

5) Reinstall O2 sensors to vehicle.

6) Reconnect negative terminal battery

Took me about 1 hour 15 minutes. Vehicle might run rough for a day or so until PCM goes through the OBD II drive cycle again.


http://www.nautilusperformance.com/catalog/c12_p1.html
 
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Tony2005 said:
You can order ready made mileliminators from www.mileliminators.com
Click to expand...

What a rip off! Build your own for $5.

milcomplete1qz1.jpg


milpartsxd0.jpg


and thanks to Demon...
mildiagramra0.png
 
instead of doing the circuit board, what about a 1 mega ohm resistor between the cut grey wire, and a 1 microfarad capacitor bridging the black wire to the grey wire. dont cut the black wire, just strip it and bridge it to the grey.
 
Sure! Get under there and solder 'em in.. UNDER THE CAR!!! This method is clean, secure, safe, and ACCESSIBLE! (do it from your desk!)

plus.. it is reversible by purchasing another sensor harness
 
Ray said:
Sure! Get under there and solder 'em in.. UNDER THE CAR!!! This method is clean, secure, safe, and ACCESSIBLE! (do it from your desk!)

plus.. it is reversible by purchasing another sensor harness
Click to expand...


the my method and the other can be done on a table. remove sensor and do the work. quick and easy, just depends on how much you want to spend and how long you want to wait for such a thing.
 
This is true. Personally, I prefer to wrap them in the harness so that if I ever DO have to replace the sensor (as it still fills the O2 bung, etc) I don't want to have to rebuild the MIL-Eliminator.

Both ways are identical with reference to signal and voltage. The same schematic, just moved up a foot or so. Both will work well, and are the choice of the operator. Good call, saturn.
 
This is true. Personally, I prefer to wrap them in the harness so that if I ever DO have to replace the sensor (as it still fills the O2 bung, etc) I don't want to have to rebuild the MIL-Eliminator.

Both ways are identical with reference to signal and voltage. The same schematic, just moved up a foot or so. Both will work well, and are the choice of the operator. Good call, saturn.
 
One little thing,insted of electrical tape use the liquid electrical tape.Helps seal out all moisture a lot better then standard tape can.
 
GrimmSVT said:
One little thing,insted of electrical tape use the liquid electrical tape.Helps seal out all moisture a lot better then standard tape can.
Click to expand...
Correct. I just used some last week for my battery positive cable. If I decide to redo the mileliminators again, I will use the Liquid Electrical Tape (aka liquid rubber) for the connections. Right now, whenever I drive in the pouring rain for 4 or 5 hours, I get the P0136. However, I just erase the code and it doesn't come back until the next 4-5 hour drive in the pouring rain again. :eek:
 
double wall adhesive lined heat shrink, that works the best. ive used liquid insulation, and hate it. if you have odd angles to deal with, shrink tape.
 
when you remove the cat on an obd2 vehicle, you will usually throw a cel because the oxygen sensor is sniffing that the exhaust is too rich. the mil eliminator tricks the pcm into thinking that all is good, so no cel.
 
Mike - I hope you don't mind, but I added capacitor polarity to the schematic - see below. With tantalum capacitors, it matters - they get squirrely if reverse voltage is applied to them.

Also - on the issue of waterproofing the splice, I use silicone sealer underneath shrink tubing - shrink it as usual, then wipe off any excess sealer that oozes out.

mildiagramra0copy-vi.jpg
 
mildiagramra0copy-vi.jpg

This wiring color is for the stock Ford OEM or Bosch O2 sensor. Note that the Denso O2 sensor has Denso White for Ford Gray, Denso Blue for Ford Black, Denso Black for Ford White (two bottom wires in this diagram). Found that out today when I had to reinstall my Bank 2 lower O2 Sensor which broke at the tip when I ran over a big stone.
 
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Stupid question: How will these effect the O2 sensor if it actually goes bad? Will the PCM still think every things 'A-OK' even if the sensor is not?
 
If the UPSTREAM sensors go bad, then the MIL eliminators will no longer work, either. You will not be able to "eliminate" *all* o2 codes.. simply cat codes (downstream sensors).

The mil eliminator is taking the signal that it gets from the upper sensors, buffering it (averaging, and slowing) and then sending those results to the PCM, as a GOOD downstream sensor would. Garbage in, garbage out, however, so if the upstreams go bad, the MIL circuit won't have anything to buffer, etc.
 
To expound on what Ray posted and to answer your question a little more in depth, if the lower O2 sensor(s) goes bad, you get [FONT=arial,verdana,helvetica,sans-serif]P0156 [/FONT][FONT=arial,verdana,helvetica,sans-serif]Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor circuit fault - Bank No. 2. or [/FONT][FONT=arial,verdana,helvetica,sans-serif]P0161 [/FONT](no signal sensor code). I got both these codes. The mileliminators are only there to eliminate the P0420 and P0430 codes for the lower O2 sensors.
 
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Ray said:
This is true. Personally, I prefer to wrap them in the harness so that if I ever DO have to replace the sensor (as it still fills the O2 bung, etc) I don't want to have to rebuild the MIL-Eliminator.

Both ways are identical with reference to signal and voltage. The same schematic, just moved up a foot or so. Both will work well, and are the choice of the operator. Good call, saturn.
Click to expand...


Hey Ray, unless you put in new downstream O2s, the built-in ones are what you have on your own car. :D


Honestly the only reason I prefer the built-in ones is Cost and connection durability. Soldered is better than screwed contacts for long term. Of course not resealing the sensor pigtail is worse than the other way though.. :idea:
 
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