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bad sound

Joined
Dec 21, 2002
Messages
142
Location
kissimmee, florida
this morning i went to go fill up my tank and when i got home i heard the worst sound ever. usualy when i start my car up cold it makes some noise for a second or to i guess from the oil being back in the pan. except now that noise isnt going away. i checke dmy oil and it was pretty low so i added some and the noise is still there. it sounds as if its coming from the rear bank. could it be valve somethign to do with the valvetrain or shoudl i be expecting to put in a new motor soon? i guess ill find out today on my ride to work.
 
this morning i went to go fill up my tank and when i got home i heard the worst sound ever. usualy when i start my car up cold it makes some noise for a second or to i guess from the oil being back in the pan. except now that noise isnt going away. i checked my oil and it was pretty low ......

This is never a good thing. :blackeye:
 
well i drove to work and back no problem. im starting to wonder if maybe i got some bad gas. i hope this problem doesnt lead to puttign in a new engine or puttign down on a new car.
 
You might have visited by the "moose". If it sounded like a cow bellowing or a moose calling it's mate that could be the sound.

It comes from the idle air control valve (IAC). It is worse in cold weather or as weather is changing. Cleaning the IAC (and throtle body) might help. Doing the throttle hang (TH) cure usually eliminates or at least greatly reduces it.
 
no its not the moose. as i got close to work today the clackign and knocking got worse. the oil light came on than flashed than came off. the car still starts up with no problem but sounds horrible and real sluggish. it actually still revs smooth. i think i might just sell it or borrow money from my father and 3.0 it. this sucks the car was running so good and strong. only 98,000 miles and the body is perfect.
 
If it is a clacking noise and it doesn't go away nearly immediately after start up it is serious. It may be worth pulling the cam covers to have a look to see if it is valve train related. If it is really ugly, it is likely that you have spun bearing.
 
See if you can diagnose the noise to a specific point, from your description, don't discount a main bearing, especially since the oil light came on.
Take a metal rod hold it up to your ear while probing different points on the engine to narrow it to location..
 
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im having it towed to the shop today to see whats up. i hope it doesnt need a new engine. a 3.0 would be nice but downtime would suck. i wish i had a garage with a lift and all the tools needed. than i wouldnt have to pay someone to do it. i hate hving to tak emy car to someone to get work done. liek the mechanic that did my clutch had cut corners with my steering rack and didnt want to take it down with the sub frame. it ruined that plastic panel cover on the floor and bent the soft aluminum piece that is made to absorb impact to the steering column. than when i had an alternator installed under warranty one time the sub frame was loose. the list goes on. car put on the lift wrong, 2 broke center caps that were glued on.
 
i think the rear main was leaking. so i kept adding like a quart a week. this past weekend i think i forgot to add a qart or maybe the main seal finally went completely.i went to work and back twice with the knock wich is 10 miles away. the car actually still started up easy but just knocked like crazy. im guessing it didnt throw a rod sinc ei didnt hear a loud bang. ive tossed some rods before. my old supra trembled when it tossed a rod and locked up the drivetran completely. my mr2 it had just tossed it and died.
 
i can bet my left knut its a spun bearing, on the first cylinder bank, im gonna replace mine this monday with new bearings and bolts and put magnetec engine oil in it and possibly slick 50 to help it a bit, but im hoping this time it will go away as i only did one bearing the last time and it knocked a little bit so im gonna change them to see if it helps it,



any one whose done this, do u know if replacing the bearings will work, as in has anyone replace the bearings before with no trouble, what im tryin to find out is this repairable, or is it a waste of money, i also brought some clevite bolts and more con rod bolts for my other eingine, but as said if replacin the bearings on my car this monday doesnt solve it, then when i put the new engine in that im doin up with diamand racin pistons and new bearings will it also knock on this, sorry for the long post, its startin to piss me off but im gonna do everything to get my car running again properly, ive brought the 3.0l oil pan which is the updated one, as the old ones are useless ive heard, will let yall know how i get on monday night anyways any info appreciated thanks :)
 
Replacing Bearings

Replacing Bearings

any one whose done this, do u know if replacing the bearings will work, as in has anyone replace the bearings before with no trouble

3 weeks ago I replaced all 6 rod bearings on my 3.0 Hybrid. I have driven about 500 miles with no problems. I am knocking on wood, crossing my fingers and holding a rabbits foot as I write this.
 
thanks buddy, i dont wanna curse u but i bet yur not gonna have any problems with yur :)

its because ive just done all 12 bearings on mine and when i looked at the bearings on the first piston, it was bein eaten up again and i havent driven it much if at all, the crankshaft looked good on all the other slots except on the first one, mine looked like the surface was a bit rough if i can describe this accuratley, when i came to start the car u could hear the rattle at first then nothing and i had a fear that all the bearings were gonna knock but they didnt which i was really happy, but its still knockin on the first one and it was more apperant when i drove it home on low revs the knockin came back again, so thats the last time im doin bearings on the car, ive got another engine in my garage and thats goin into my car, ive gotta get some stuff ready to buy but on thursday im getting another gearbox so that i can bolt it onto my new engine and it will get the lsd installed by me and also a stage 3 clutch, that way when i come to take off my current engine, i can just put the new one in when i take a couple of bits off from my current engine, im a bit pissed off that this didnt work, but i knew it wouldnt when i compared the two crankshaft slots and they both looked different, all the other 5 looked very nice except for the one im havin problems, well ive ordered another couple of con rod bolts from fords and also some clevite bearings and they are goin to go on my new engine that im rebuilting on my car. but as said u should be alright, because changin them all didnt knock on any other one except the first one so hope it goes alright with u buddy :)
 
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