Reebs
meester super sleuth
Yes, car bucks because your injectors don't get enough volts to spray the right amount of fuel. That is why it gets worse when you tried to give it gas (leaning out too much)... probally leaning out past 17:1.
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Speedo and Tach drop to Zero, Car Bucks and Dies
- Thread starter fishbyte
- Start date
Yes, car bucks because your injectors don't get enough volts to spray the right amount of fuel. That is why it gets worse when you tried to give it gas (leaning out too much)... probally leaning out past 17:1.
OrionHCCA
New CEG'er
Tony,
I don't have the splash shield installed. I'm not sure the "rubber tube" your talking about? Do you have any pics? When I replaced my cabin filter I didn't have to pull off any "tubes". Please advise.
Also, this morning on my way to work it happened again about 12 miles from my house, anyway... I got out and checked the voltage on the battery while I was manually opening the throttle and it was almost constant voltage 13.8 something...
Let me know what you think.
98SVTC
Hard-core CEG'er
Sorry, I meant the weatherstipping piece of rubber. Figure 5 in Autozonelink. If it is missing, water can get into the PCM and short it.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/bd/ee/0900823d801bbdee/repairInfoPages.htm
In addition, the splash shield for the alternator is critical or water will get to the alternator and its wiring (harness).
http://www.contour.org/FAQ/tsb/content/97-11-2.html
OrionHCCA
New CEG'er
Tony,
I do have the weatherstripping that you were talking about. Where can I get the splash shield kit from online? Or do I have to go directly to a Ford dealer?
Also, the problems still there, what do you think it might be?
Thanks
Big Jim
Hard-core CEG'er
I'm sorry that I didn't read this thread sooner. This is a classic description of intermittent VSS (vehicle speed sensor) failure. Look over the wiring to the sensor and see if there are any obvious wiring issues. If not, start by replacing the VSS. (Good luck, access is difficult.)
OrionHCCA
New CEG'er
Jim,
Does the VSS sympton relate to the tach going crazy by itself, regardless of the odometer? Or does it pertain to both?
Thx
Big Jim
Hard-core CEG'er
You're right. I didn't read that carefully enough. The speedo and odometer acting up can relate to the VSS. The tach acting up does not.
So chasing a charging system and/or battery problem is appropriate.
OrionHCCA
New CEG'er
I've already tested the battery to be good. I've tested the voltage output of the alternator to be constantly above 13.8, even while I rev the engine and it cuts out intermittently. It only happens 'noticeably' after it's warmed up. After you let the car sit for a while (not sure how long) you can drive it again without the problem.
Keep in mind that while I'm talking about the tach going crazy, the actual problem is the car stumbles drastically and recovers very fast over and over while the problem occurs. Usually I have to put it in nuetral and coast for a 1/4 mile or so, before I steadily accelerate again for another 1/4 mile before it stumble/bucks/hesitates, all of the above.
please help, I don't what else to test, where else to look.... I don't want to have to take it to the stealership...
striker2
Official CEG Vendor
check for AC voltage out of the alternator. if your getting any more than .5v AC the diode pack is bad and you need to replace it or the alternator.
simply take your multimeter and put it on AC volts, start the car and put the leads of the meter on the battery terminals. post your results.
simply take your multimeter and put it on AC volts, start the car and put the leads of the meter on the battery terminals. post your results.
OrionHCCA
New CEG'er
I highly appreciate your quick response.... when I get home from work tonight I will test it and post.
Thx
1) Actually, Big Jim could be right here. It could be the VSS or the wiring for it. You may have to test it. I think it is the green/red which goes to the PCM. Do you know if your 95 is cable driven or wire for the VSS? Check if there is a coaxial type looking wire going into the firewall.
2) You may end up having to send it to the dealership for a one hour diagnosis.
But first, try describing everthing in detail again (does the "OD off" light go on? Did you get the CEL retrieved? etc.).
Autozonelink for wiring diagrams.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1e/b3/2d/0900823d801eb32d/repairInfoPages.htm
Last edited:
jolly8286
Hard-core CEG'er
just fixed that problem
just fixed that problem
i just had the same problem, its the alternator. my car did that went the battery was killed. i had it professionally rebuilt and now it has 150A compared to the 120A factory. Also does anyone know why the lights would be fluttering while i'm driving?
just fixed that problem
i just had the same problem, its the alternator. my car did that went the battery was killed. i had it professionally rebuilt and now it has 150A compared to the 120A factory. Also does anyone know why the lights would be fluttering while i'm driving?
FavoriteMystaque
Hard-core CEG'er
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2004
- Messages
- 1,192
If you mean the lights flicker: make sure it isn't just loud bass (if you have a system), or the A/C cutting in. If the lights flicker as you drive, poor regulation, revisit the alternator shop. I had that problem with an aftermarket voltage regulator (on a Chrysler), an OEM one fixed it, but the regulator is inside the Ford alternator.
jolly8286
Hard-core CEG'er
thanks, i think that's what it could be.
after your revised description of the symptoms (stumbles and recovers RAPIDLY), search the troubleshooting forum for a post made BY ME, about a problem I was having like this.
The next time its happening, try unplugging your TPS. This is assuming you have checked your PCM wiring, battery connections, and grounds (including the one underneath the battery tray.
I would bet that when you unplug your TPS the symptoms stop.
Do that search for a post by me within the last 3 months, or so, and you'll see a list of ALL the symptoms I incurred, and my locations I checked
The next time its happening, try unplugging your TPS. This is assuming you have checked your PCM wiring, battery connections, and grounds (including the one underneath the battery tray.
I would bet that when you unplug your TPS the symptoms stop.
Do that search for a post by me within the last 3 months, or so, and you'll see a list of ALL the symptoms I incurred, and my locations I checked
OrionHCCA
New CEG'er
Thanks, Ray. I am going to check it out. I know this car is one of the cars that needed the wiring replacement but never received it. As it is out of the extended warranty protection of the recall now, it would be prohibitively expensive to have it done at the dealer (and I'm not sure I want to tackle it either). haha