• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

So...this is bad?

yea my svt dose not burn oil. with 104,000 miles.

the ticking your talking about coming from your motor can normally be helped by switching to a heaver weight oil. or if your over due on your oil change just changing it helps. also not having enough oil will do that. but i am in no way saying thats a cure.

water coming out of the exhaust is very normal. especially on start up. also remember that a cat will convert gasses into less harmful gasses and water. thats the whole point of it. ( thats my understanding from my auto tech training)

as far as your rear bumper. are you sure thats not road grime? like fresh oil they put on the roads. i know i get road grime on my rear bumper.
 
Last edited:
Oil burning

Oil burning

Your engine does have a problem, any CELs that relate to running rich? My experience is 3-4000 on a quart with Duratec (hard driven MTX 135,000 miles, my ATX is about the same.) Winter and short trip driving will use more oil. Get 2500 on old Dodge Lancer. The only car my family has had that doesn't burn any between changes is the Toyota Avalon 3.0, which we got NEW and maintained correctly from the first day. Others were and are used :blackeye: cars.
 
I doesn't look like he is burning oil to me...he has a **** load of carbon blowing out. :shrug:

I would suggust checking the plugs and see if there is oil on them or if they look shot. If your plugs seem fine, its probably got a clogging egr/dirty intake manifold. If cleaning that doesn't help, may even be a failing O2 sensor.

Don't get too uppity right away! Theres a chance nothing major with your car. Water and carbon in the exhaust is normal.
 
Well after about 2500 miles, I had to replace 3 quarts of oil because the oil light would come on if I would break too hard.

I had a P1131 for a while, but I installed an MIL eliminator to fix that problem. I changed the plugs about 2500 miles ago due to a misfire in cylinder 3 and there was oil on one or two of the plugs, and they were all badly corroded.

But it's definitely burning oil. On every startup, there will be a small cloud of smoke that I back through, and every time I turn it off, I can see smoke wafting out of the exhaust tips after I get out.
 
PurpleMystique said:
W

I had a P1131 for a while, but I installed an MIL eliminator to fix that problem.
Click to expand...

P1131 is lack of switching from the upstream O2 sensor - sensor indicates lean. if that is indeed the code you had then you need to remove the MIL eliminator from the upper O2 and replace the O2 sensor.

your gas mileage has probable dropped too right? replace the sensor and check the PCV valve and hoses for oil. drive it for a while and see what happens.
 
TGO said:
Quote:
Originally Posted by AliasJerk
all duratecs burn oil, I know people who go through a quart between changes, my brother's Mazda6 goes through a quart between changes, and it only has 40K miles on it.


well then all the people you konw and your brother have something wrong with their car.

it is NOT normal for a duratec to burn oil.


stop with this idiocy already...please!
Click to expand...

I was gonna respond to this as well. I've had/have 3 Duratec 25s. All have been run hard and none burn oil. My current two have 115,000 and 135000 miles on them and do not burn oil to any noticable degree.
 
todras said:
Blue smoke out the tail. Fornetti on the boards just picked up a 00 with 83k on it with a spun bearing. Mileage means nothing.
Click to expand...

Yup, its all about driving habits and maintenance habits. Avoid long slopping turns at high revs and overfill the oil a quart higher than normal.
 
striker2 said:
P1131 is lack of switching from the upstream O2 sensor - sensor indicates lean. if that is indeed the code you had then you need to remove the MIL eliminator from the upper O2 and replace the O2 sensor.

your gas mileage has probable dropped too right? replace the sensor and check the PCV valve and hoses for oil. drive it for a while and see what happens.
Click to expand...

Gas milage isn't what it used to be when I first got it (2 months ago), but I assumed that's because in the past few weeks I've been driving almost exclusively in town, I've been getting around 22mpg still.

I didn't want to replace a $60 O2 sensor if it was just going to get crap all over it and foul it up again. I checked the PCV valve and it's clean.
 
PurpleMystique said:
Gas milage isn't what it used to be when I first got it (2 months ago), but I assumed that's because in the past few weeks I've been driving almost exclusively in town, I've been getting around 22mpg still.

I didn't want to replace a $60 O2 sensor if it was just going to get crap all over it and foul it up again. I checked the PCV valve and it's clean.
Click to expand...

did you do the shake test with the pcv? if it rattles your good. also did you check the lines comming from the pcv?
 
Nope, I haven't done those yet. I did just take it out for a drive. The high end is DEFINITELY not the same as it was last night, it's all there now. Not sure what the difference is though.
 
Alright, I changed the oil and filter today. I went back to a non-synthetic (a high-milage variant).

But there is DEFINITELY valve/cam noise coming from the rear bank. It's audible under normal acceleration and at cruising speeds on the highway, it makes me scared. What kind of trouble am I looking at?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top