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Zetec lost compression

its cheaper to buy a compression tester gauge $30 than to pay someone to test for you and if timing is off then i doubt you would have compression anyway. bro inlaws car died the exact same way and it was his timing. you should replace the pulleys and tensioner to be sure this wont happen again, you only want to do this once , timing aint fun.
 
I tried the "remove spark plugs and putting oil in the cylinder" trick and the car wants to start. As I was cranking the engine, smoke came from the exhaust tailpipe. The smoke smelled like fuel. Also, there was smoke (or steam; I'm not sure) coming from the coolant reservoir. Keep in mind that with a leak somewhere (I think it's at the radiator) in the cooling system, the car can not hold any coolant. So I added water temporary to see if the car will start. But the car does not turn over.
First, I'd fix the coolant leak - the one which keeps the system from holding any coolant. The smoke out of the tailpipe is probably the oil from which ever cylinders are firing. The engine must be turning over for that to happen. It just doesn't start.
At this point, I believe that I do have a compression problem. Please correct me if I'm wrong. If this is the case, how do I fix it? I don't believe I've blown a head gasket because if I did, I would have heard some sort of knocking in the block and I don't hear that.
False. A bad head gasket makes no knocking sounds. It's just a thin metal (or whatever they're made of) plate sandwiched between the head and block to seal in the compression. The actual compression problem can be caused by a number of things. The reason I suspected the fuel pressure regulator is that if fuel washes down the cylinder walls, it washes away the oil seal between the cylinder and the piston rings therefore giving you zero compression.
My next question is how does coolant (or lack thereof) play a part in the engine turning over? I know that coolant keeps the engine cool. I'm asking this question because this engine has a lot of sensors and I'm thinking that with the lack of coolant, one of the sensors is telling the PCM not to start the engine. Can anyone shed some light on this?:help:
Again, I'd fix this coolant leak first. If you ever did get the engine running, you'll fry it quick without coolant and then you'd have a worse problem than you have now. Plus you'll need a good working cooling system to do any compression tests in the future if it becomes necessary.
Karl
 
I tried to work on the car today. The fuel pressure regulator was replaced. I took all the necessary steps in removing the timing belt in an attempt to reset the timing via the Zetec timing kit. For some reason, I'm having a difficult time turning the crankshaft manually. I didn't have this problem before. But it's as if something internally is preventing the crankshaft from rotating. I can turn the crankshaft a quarter of a turn in either direction. After that, it simply won't move. As a matter of fact, if I attempt to turn the crankshaft counter clockwise, I will be able to loosen the bolt that holds the crankshaft pulley in place. Again, this didn't happen before. Does anyone know why this is happening?
 
Pull your spark plugs and then see if you can turn the crankshaft. If not then it sounds like you may have internal engine damage, maybe stuck valves, or seized piston rings maybe?
 
I took the car to a mechanic yesterday. The results are that I do have internal engine damage as a result of driving the car when the timing belt jumped. I've decided to install a new identical engine into the car.

I would like to thank all of you who took the time to assist me in this problem. I'm very impressed and pleased with this forum and plan to stay here awhile. I also plan to hold on to my Contour for as long as I can. I now have this forum saved in "My Favorites". I know where to go if I need any help with my car. You guys are the best!!!:laugh:
 
I took the car to a mechanic yesterday. The results are that I do have internal engine damage as a result of driving the car when the timing belt jumped. I've decided to install a new identical engine into the car.
...
Get a second opinion from another mechanic. Zetecs (2L) are non interference engines and should not create internal engine issues when the timing belt snaps or "jumps"
 
The mechanic tried to crank the car. When he did, the crankshaft won't turn at all. Either I got some bent valves or pistons or that the engine is seized. But I can't understand how the engine could be seized when I have a full tank of oil in the oil pan.

Get a second opinion from another mechanic. Zetecs (2L) are non interference engines and should not create internal engine issues when the timing belt snaps or "jumps"
 
I tried the "remove spark plugs and putting oil in the cylinder" trick and the car wants to start. As I was cranking the engine, smoke came from the exhaust tailpipe. The smoke smelled like fuel. Also, there was smoke (or steam; I'm not sure) coming from the coolant reservoir. :

Still sounds like you have a blown head gasket and "maybe" cooked the engine. The only way anything can come out of the coolant tank before the engine starts is if the piston is pumping it out. Running the engine till it loses power and stalls from overheating "can" cause internal damage. Having said that I don't think it's dead. In your first post you said it cranked normally. If it was siezed it wouldn't crank normally. If it is locked up now it's most likely something you did. Hate to say it but it sounds like you're in over your head and just changing parts without diagnosing the problem. Was the battery bad? how did you check it before you replaced it. Why did you replace the alternator? it cant charge the battery till the engine is running so it can't be the problem. Why did you change the starter if the car was cranking normally. Did you check the fuel pressure or just change the regulator? Did you check the timing or just replace the belt? Diagnose the fix, don't just change parts because someone mentioned it.
 
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I got a phone call from the mechanic today to come out and look at the old engine. It turns out that water got into the engine block. That's why I was having the problems I was having. I'm so pissed that I allowed that to happen!:mad:

I've got a identical rebuilt engine coming to replace the old engine. My question is how does water enter the block? What steps can I take to prevent this from happening again to the new engine?
 
.... My question is how does water enter the block? What steps can I take to prevent this from happening again to the new engine?
Do you have a lowered air intake? If you do, don't drive in standing water.

Reinstall the stock air intake.
 
I don't have a lowered air intake. There are no modifications to the engine except a high-amp alternator, a K & N air filter and Bosch platinum spark plugs. Everything else is stock.

Do you have a lowered air intake? If you do, don't drive in standing water.

Reinstall the stock air intake.
 
I don't have a lowered air intake. There are no modifications to the engine except a high-amp alternator, a K & N air filter and Bosch platinum spark plugs. Everything else is stock.
a blown head gasket will let coolant(water) into the cylinder(s). it will also give you loss of compression.
 
Coolant or in your case water that you kept adding can actually fill a cylinder or two preventing the engine from turning over. Then as it sits there it will seize the engine as it did. In reading all this when things started to happen what was the temp guage doing? That should have been your first clue. If, and it sounds like it was, pegged on the hot side you could have saved yourself much of this grief, by telling that part. It seemed that important info was omitted right up front. :nonono:

In recapping the events, it sounds like you blew the head gasket. As the car overheated it lost power, and finally as they do in that case quit. Not always does one lock up the engine at that point. The issue that was the coupe de gras was letting the car sit with water in the cylinders. If you had pulled the plugs and cranked the engine as suggested you would have seen water squirt out. I didn't read that you had actually tried that, but instead went right to changing the timing belt.

Good luck with the new engine and please pay attention to the guages and idiot lights.

BTW welcome, sorry it was under such sad circumstances you found this place, but that is not uncommon..... we drive Tours so we know pain....:laugh:
 
I did mentioned that the car overheated in an earlier post. The weird thing was that the temperature gauge was in the "normal" zone. That's why I had a hard time trying to figure out why the car overheated. Basically, I was given a false reading. Otherwise, I would have taken precautions to prevent this from happening. Based on the symptoms I was given, I was under the impression that the timing belt was the problem. I had a friend who thought is was the timing belt as well based on the events that led up to this point. As I found out later after the engine was pulled out of the car and disassembled, I did blew the head gasket and water got into the system. So I really can't be faulted for the actions I took based on the car symptoms that was given to me. All I can do is take the necessary precautions in order to prevent this from happening again. And believe me, I always pay attention to my gauges.

Like I mentioned before, I can do the basic car maintenance. I'm not an expert mechanic. This is a 1st time experience for me. The good thing about all of this is that I've gotten a lot of general knowledge about car engines and how they work. I'm taking this as a learning experience.

Coolant or in your case water that you kept adding can actually fill a cylinder or two preventing the engine from turning over. Then as it sits there it will seize the engine as it did. In reading all this when things started to happen what was the temp guage doing? That should have been your first clue. If, and it sounds like it was, pegged on the hot side you could have saved yourself much of this grief, by telling that part. It seemed that important info was omitted right up front. :nonono:

In recapping the events, it sounds like you blew the head gasket. As the car overheated it lost power, and finally as they do in that case quit. Not always does one lock up the engine at that point. The issue that was the coupe de gras was letting the car sit with water in the cylinders. If you had pulled the plugs and cranked the engine as suggested you would have seen water squirt out. I didn't read that you had actually tried that, but instead went right to changing the timing belt.

Good luck with the new engine and please pay attention to the guages and idiot lights.

BTW welcome, sorry it was under such sad circumstances you found this place, but that is not uncommon..... we drive Tours so we know pain....:laugh:
 
.....Based on the symptoms I was given, I was under the impression that the timing belt was the problem. I had a friend who thought is was the timing belt as well based on the events that led up to this point. As I found out later after the engine was pulled out of the car and disassembled, I did blew the head gasket and water got into the system. So I really can't be faulted for the actions I took based on the car symptoms that was given to me......

Correct me if I'm wrong but you took the tow truck driver's word for the timing belt and had nothing to do with the symptoms. How can someone give you a diagnosys using "event's that lead up to things"? Next time don't start throwig new parts at it and hope that it will fix the unknown proble. If you don't know how or are not confortable doing it yourself, have someone that knows what they are doing to look a the car.

Another thing that might have happend is that your headgasket probaby went and the coolant level dropped beloow the headgasket level. Then when you refilled the overflow tank (while the car was sitting) one or more cylinders got filled up with coolant from the blown headgasket. When you first changed the timing blet, the engine turned over fine and after you filled it up with coolant it didn't. So there is a very good chance that that's how the cylinders got hydro locked.

The mechanic probably did the right thing and wrote the engine off.
 
You are right. I've learned a valuable lesson from all of this. All I can do now is take this experience and apply it to prevent future mishaps like this one.

Correct me if I'm wrong but you took the tow truck driver's word for the timing belt and had nothing to do with the symptoms. How can someone give you a diagnosys using "event's that lead up to things"? Next time don't start throwig new parts at it and hope that it will fix the unknown proble. If you don't know how or are not confortable doing it yourself, have someone that knows what they are doing to look a the car.

Another thing that might have happend is that your headgasket probaby went and the coolant level dropped beloow the headgasket level. Then when you refilled the overflow tank (while the car was sitting) one or more cylinders got filled up with coolant from the blown headgasket. When you first changed the timing blet, the engine turned over fine and after you filled it up with coolant it didn't. So there is a very good chance that that's how the cylinders got hydro locked.

The mechanic probably did the right thing and wrote the engine off.
 
Hydrolock....

Hydrolock....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrolock ("...the immobilization of an engine's pistons by a liquid (usually water, hence the prefix "hydro-"). Hydrolocking occurs when liquid fills a cylinder on the intake stroke and, due to the incompressibility of a liquid, makes the compression stroke impossible. This, in turn, prevents the entire engine from turning, and can cause significant engine damage if one attempts to forcibly turn over or start the engine. Typically, connecting rods will be bent, making the engine uneconomical to repair.")
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrolock ("...the immobilization of an engine's pistons by a liquid (usually water, hence the prefix "hydro-"). Hydrolocking occurs when liquid fills a cylinder on the intake stroke and, due to the incompressibility of a liquid, makes the compression stroke impossible. This, in turn, prevents the entire engine from turning, and can cause significant engine damage if one attempts to forcibly turn over or start the engine. Typically, connecting rods will be bent, making the engine uneconomical to repair.")


??????
 
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