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Calling all Alarm Gurus!...Clifford AG4 w/Intellistart

S

showngo

CEG'er
Joined
Jun 1, 2002
Messages
42
Location
Tulsa, Ok
I'm currently installing a Clifford Avantguard 4 in my 99 SVT. I have all of the connections involving the remote start hooked up to the Alarm and the Intellistart.

I have a relay set up to bypass the clutch using a - trigger on remote start to activate the relay. I have a PFK-1 transponder bypass installed to bypass PATS.

Looking at the Cliffnet software, the diagnostic in/out is all good. No hood, doors, trunk, or anything else open. I double checked the parking brake connections, and they are correct.

When I start the car with a key, the car starts. Then, I press the * button on the remote to try and activate the manual transmission mode. The parking lights flash twice, and I hear the clutch bypass relay engage. Then, the parking lights flash again. It's like the parking lights do a double flash, pause, single flash. (I try to start the car from cliffnet, and it does the same thing with the parking lights.) When I turn the ignition off, the car dies...it's supposed to stay running until I arm the alarm

According to the Avantguard 4 install manual, three parking light pulses (which I'm assuming that's what it is doing), says to check the ignition wiring. I've looked and looked and cannot figure this out.


I have it hooked as follows:

WHT/BRN (from AG4 ) -- Ignition wire(key side) GREEN on car

GRN/BLUE (from AG4 and IntellistartIV) -- Ignition wire (coil side) GREEN on car

Since I can hear the clutch bypass relay click when I try to activate "manual transmission mode", I know that it is probably not that. From Cliffnet programming, I can turn on/off the ignition, so I am assuming that this wiring is good. Is there something that I need to do that I don't know about?

I appreciate all the help I can get.
 
showngo said:
I'm currently installing a Clifford Avantguard 4 in my 99 SVT. I have all of the connections involving the remote start hooked up to the Alarm and the Intellistart.

I have a relay set up to bypass the clutch using a - trigger on remote start to activate the relay. I have a PFK-1 transponder bypass installed to bypass PATS.

Looking at the Cliffnet software, the diagnostic in/out is all good. No hood, doors, trunk, or anything else open. I double checked the parking brake connections, and they are correct.

When I start the car with a key, the car starts. Then, I press the * button on the remote to try and activate the manual transmission mode. The parking lights flash twice, and I hear the clutch bypass relay engage. Then, the parking lights flash again. It's like the parking lights do a double flash, pause, single flash. (I try to start the car from cliffnet, and it does the same thing with the parking lights.) When I turn the ignition off, the car dies...it's supposed to stay running until I arm the alarm

According to the Avantguard 4 install manual, three parking light pulses (which I'm assuming that's what it is doing), says to check the ignition wiring. I've looked and looked and cannot figure this out.


I have it hooked as follows:

WHT/BRN (from AG4 ) -- Ignition wire(key side) GREEN on car

GRN/BLUE (from AG4 and IntellistartIV) -- Ignition wire (coil side) GREEN on car

Since I can hear the clutch bypass relay click when I try to activate "manual transmission mode", I know that it is probably not that. From Cliffnet programming, I can turn on/off the ignition, so I am assuming that this wiring is good. Is there something that I need to do that I don't know about?

I appreciate all the help I can get.
Click to expand...

Usually the Viper's (made by the same company) separate the starter wire, Key side and starter side, not the ignition, Give me the full product model, your exact car model, and what you've hooked what to so far...
 
CSVT_2004 said:
Usually the Viper's (made by the same company) separate the starter wire, Key side and starter side, not the ignition, Give me the full product model, your exact car model, and what you've hooked what to so far...
Click to expand...

Product Model: Clifford Avantguard 4 with Intellistart IV
Car Model: 1999 Ford Contour SVT (Manual Transmission)

Hooked up so far on remote start:


On Alarm On Car
WHT/BRN Key side ignition (GREEN)
GRN/BLUE(From both, alarm and Intellistart) Coil side ignition (GREEN)
WHT/GRN(From both, alarm and Intellistart) Key side Starter (GRY/WHT)
WHT/BLUE Starter side Starter (GRY/WHT)
ORG (From Intellistart) Accessory (YELLOW)

That is what I have as far as the remote start side of things, I also have the clutch bypassed using a relay that goes to the BLUE/ORG on the Intellistart.

Also, I have the e-brake hooked to a relay that gives +12V when engaged, wired to the BLUE/GRN of the Intellistart 12 pin harness.


After looking over the install manual again, I see that the wire for the tach is to go to a negative tach input. I have my tach input on pin #48 of the PCM, which I believe to a positive input. Maybe this is the problem.
 
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/817.html

This is for a 2000 ^

But, Ive got a compustar on a 1998 contour svt and my tach sense is on the coil pack harness....

But in this one for a '99 it says like a '98 to hit the PCM. But it doesnt say which pin on the PCM...

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/816.html

But like I said Ive got a 98 on the coil pack harness...

And on my compustar theres a button to press when the car is running so it can learn the TACH setting...

Ya i think i soldered red and split green for mine I dont remember splitting grey/white But like CSVT said Vipers DEI's CLiffs do that I guess....

and for ACCESSORY it looks like ORANGE or RED/BLUE

Check this thread out lol

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~58043~KW~contour+start~PN~0~TPN~1

lol.

try to leave your key in the ignition and see if it starts haha....

I bet that dude had PATS and he was BS'ing
 
Last edited:
showngo said:
Product Model: Clifford Avantguard 4 with Intellistart IV
Car Model: 1999 Ford Contour SVT (Manual Transmission)

Hooked up so far on remote start:


On Alarm On Car
WHT/BRN Key side ignition (GREEN)
GRN/BLUE(From both, alarm and Intellistart) Coil side ignition (GREEN)
WHT/GRN(From both, alarm and Intellistart) Key side Starter (GRY/WHT)
WHT/BLUE Starter side Starter (GRY/WHT)
ORG (From Intellistart) Accessory (YELLOW)

That is what I have as far as the remote start side of things, I also have the clutch bypassed using a relay that goes to the BLUE/ORG on the Intellistart.

Also, I have the e-brake hooked to a relay that gives +12V when engaged, wired to the BLUE/GRN of the Intellistart 12 pin harness.


After looking over the install manual again, I see that the wire for the tach is to go to a negative tach input. I have my tach input on pin #48 of the PCM, which I believe to a positive input. Maybe this is the problem.
Click to expand...

I just went and looked at my wiring print out from directechs, and my car (which is a 99 CSVT) had yellow as the accessory wire.....

The whole relay for the e-brake sounds kinda weird... my remote start used a negative trigger to enable the remote start function.... won't work without a ground, I ended up diode isolating my e-brake because the light would come on even when the brake was off originally, so I had to add the diode... Your tach input generally is an AC input.... I got my tach right behind the gauge cluster... i tried messing with the stupid pcm wire but that was not working.... much much easier to just grab the wire behind the cluster IMO...
 
I've got the white/black tach wire tapped in at PCM pin #48. I'm wondering if this is a positive input or negative. According to the manual, I need a negative.

Is it still the same white/black wire behind the cluster for the tach?

Here is the install manual I'm using:
http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/ig/clifford/avantguard4_install.pdf

What will happen if I did not cut the ignition wire? The reason I ask is that I have it wired exactly like the guide says, but when I go to turn the car off with the key after activating the manual transmission sequence, it dies. It is supposed to stay running. I have traced down all the wiring leading to the ignition and starter and they are correct.

Also, I did not connect the gray wire for the Heater/AC control...surely this has nothing to do with it, right?
 
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So then you DO have both IG and STRTR cut then.

Looks like you just need 1 wht/green KEY SIDE to starter GRY/WHT from AV4 (maybe it was a typo..... cause you said = WHT/GRN(From both, alarm and Intellistart) Key side Starter (GRY/WHT) <----that is wrong it looks like


On mine, I grabbed the wire from the COIL PACK HARNESS for TACH...

Looks like you need two wires twisted from BOTH BRAINS to CAR SIDE WHT/BLU & GRN/BLU...

damn those instructions make it look easy lol.....

When I pull my ebrake on mine DURING THE SEQUENCE, OR WHEN MY KEY IS IN ON MODE, I can hear the relay click on mine when I pull it up....

Is your Relay working....

Maybe it thinks a door is open....? Or you grabbed the wrong DOME/DOOR LIGHT wire....

Looks like AV4 GREY to
Door Trigger Blue/White (-) = Courtesy Light under Dash

And if your car will turn over w the key, Im sure all connections are correct...

Looks like only SINGLE WIRES go KEY SIDE and the 2 DOUBLES GO CAR SIDE


On mine, to shut off the engine, I close the door....Im sure yours is the same.

Damn that thing has got some nice options.

Good Luck!
 
Last edited:
showngo said:
I've got the white/black tach wire tapped in at PCM pin #48. I'm wondering if this is a positive input or negative. According to the manual, I need a negative.

Is it still the same white/black wire behind the cluster for the tach?

Here is the install manual I'm using:
http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/ig/clifford/avantguard4_install.pdf

What will happen if I did not cut the ignition wire? The reason I ask is that I have it wired exactly like the guide says, but when I go to turn the car off with the key after activating the manual transmission sequence, it dies. It is supposed to stay running. I have traced down all the wiring leading to the ignition and starter and they are correct.

Also, I did not connect the gray wire for the Heater/AC control...surely this has nothing to do with it, right?
Click to expand...

Here's what you need to do.... grab the brain and just pull really really hard till it come out, then go buy a different unit.....

On a more serious note... I see Pin 12 Black/gray as RPM input... i would assume that would be the wire to hook up behind your cluster and screw the coil pack, did you remember to do the tach learning procedure to make sure it learned the tach, that would be a good indicator of why the system shuts off right away when it's put in remote start mode.... too bad the unit doesn't have voltage sense like the viper's to do if your tach programming doesn't go well it can just check for voltage and stop cranking when it sees that.... Also something a little quwerky with my install was that the tach wouldn't learn properly... and for some reason at the cluster it was only like 6 volts AC, now there is a setting on my unit (791XV) which allows for low and high voltage tach input, which usually you only use on cars like Chrysler for the most part... switched my unit from high to low voltage input and it programmed like charm. I also used the 1100F for PATS bypass...
 
usually the injectors have a wire the matches on all of the injectors and then a wire thats different at each injector, you want one of the wires that's different.
 
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