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Too much time on hand think'n again!

Tony2005 said:
What I really want is one touch up, but I guess in the US, it is a safety hazard. I have driven cars in Europe and Asia which have the one touch up and that is great for driving right after the toll booths.
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There are cars in the US that have one touch up. VW Jetta comes to mind as one of them.
 
IRingTwyce said:
WRONG-O!! The auto-down switch is a two position switch. If you push it lightly to the first position, then the window will go down until you release the switch. If you push it harder, it moves on to the spring-loaded second position and rolls the window all the way down. It should be as simple as taking apart the 4-place switch unit, and soldering in auto-down switches in place of the 3 manual switches. You're making this harder than it has to be. If the switches differ among year models, then go pull some out of a '98 (that's what I have).
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See that's why I'm here flapp'n my gums...... Now I'll have to go take apart a master switch and see whats inside. I have a few extra ones, and I thought the auto down feature was an add on to the option rather than just part of it (for no particular reason cept it sounded like some folks didn't have it). If that is correct then I'll have to put those innards in the passenger switch anyway.

So thanks for the info, but now I gotta go do some thinking............ However if the switch locks into position then why would they need the relay?

I have been working with pre 98 parts...... does your 98 have the relay in the drivers door?
 
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I've never found a relay when I've had the door apart. What you're describing sounds more like the switch on my GMC truck. If I hold it for two seconds or so, I'll hear a tiny electrick "click" and the window keeps going. My 'tour isn't like that. The down button has two positions. Position one is just regular down, and the window stops when you release it. It doesn't matter how long you hold it, as it never triggers the auto feature. If you push the switch farther, you move it into a spring loaded second position. Then the window goes auto. I had a Mitsubishi that was like this. I honestly don't think there is a seperate relay for the auto switch, or if there is it is built into the switch itself.

Again, I don't know if this is a '98 specific thing or not, as my understanding is that the window switches for the 98 were specific to that model year (bulbous raised switches); I know that they're completely different from the window controls in my '95 parts car and '96 project (flat switches), and I seem to recall hearing that after the '98 MY that the switches reverted back to the flat design. I have no idea if the internals were different as well. I suppose it could be possible that the auto-down flat switches are different than the 98's raised switches. Anyone here with a '98.5+ that can answer this?
 
The switch in the pre 98's doesn't feel any different when you press down. To acitvate the auto feature you actually just quickly press and release the button. This is where I think the relay comes in. If you hold the button too long it wont auto dn. When I push on the button, and these are the raised button type not flat, they seem the same one to another in the master and the other windows. I'm going to do some fooling with them and see if I can make the relay function with another switch. IF I can then it is just the relay that controls the feature and if not then I'd say the switch is different. Now how to rig it all up hmmmmmmm...... got the window motor, switch, harness and a battery for power. Throw in a fused connection so I don't burn things up and it should be good to go...... :D
 
cruises8 said:
My SAAB has all 4 windows auto up and down. I love having it. I miss it when I drive the Explorer!
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MY 79 GMC 1ton 4x4 w/ 468 - 435hp can run over your Saab and auto all your windows down at the same time :D They probably won't auto back up again though :( oh well........
 
Aussie Ford said:
MY 79 GMC 1ton 4x4 w/ 468 - 435hp can run over your Saab and auto all your windows down at the same time :D They probably won't auto back up again though :( oh well........
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Bah.. I make that much (thanks, Tom!) and I don't weigh near as much, so my auto down, and auto close sunroof won't be worried aboutcha.





Seriously, though.. where did big-engine-big-power come in to this conversation? :confused: LOL
 
IRingTwyce said:
When you are quickly pressing and releasing, you must be pressing hard and triggering the second position. Play with the switch some, pressing lightly then harder. You'll feel the transition.
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OK here is the deal.... I took the wiring harness and connected the relay, master switch, window regulator, and added power and grounding through the door connector, pushed the button and the regulator went down as it should have. I then took the single switch for one of the other windows with a pig tail and put that in the harness pushed the button and the window went down both part way and auto. That means the auto function is controlled by the relay and not the switch, and I think you will agree that the other door switches are not a two stage type. Now I do want to clarify again these are the pre 98 parts I am working with, and your set up may be different. (the flat kind)

In considering your switch you say is two stage I wonder how many wires are going to it, because there has to be some way to control the motor for shut down when it reaches the end of the run. I think the resistance rise in the motor causes the relay to kick out, but that would not be the same for a switch that is mechanical. If you get my meaning. So perhaps there is a difference in the motors and maybe an electronic control is built into the motor, so the functin would be a combination of the switch, electronic motor controller, and motor. Then the question rises what causes the release of the switch so it is not supplying power on the dn contact side until you push the up?

Having a relay(s) in the mix exlpains, and clears up function to me, and perhaps other cars have a different style relay and if you could get it you could set it up the same way. I now know for sure I can make these work :D, but it takes one relay for each function :(.

The next step will be to remove the relay wires from the harness and add it to the passenger side harness and see if the works. Well maybe the first thing is see where I can mount the relay in the passenger door and make a hole for it. I already know the electrical can work ;)

Your thoughts?
 
Aussie Ford said:
...
The next step will be to remove the relay wires from the harness and add it to the passenger side harness and see if the works. Well maybe the first thing is see where I can mount the relay in the passenger door and make a hole for it. I already know the electrical can work ;)

Your thoughts?
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Sounds like a plan. Post a how to when you are done.:)
 
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frenchblueC2 said:
There are cars in the US that have one touch up. VW Jetta comes to mind as one of them.
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ya my gf's jetta has the onetouch up/down for the two front windows...its so nice being that "lazy" because then my "lazy" fingers can actually remain on the steering wheel instead of on some switch...wow i tell you, that actually defines laziness to a T...i hope my sarcasm is coming on really thick towards stocksvtcontour's comment
 
Tony2005 said:
Sounds like a plan. Post a how to when you are done.:)
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I'll be glad to ;)

FYI:
Connector pin outs;
Master Switch:
Connector "A" White - #1 white/purple - pass front up, #2 yellow/purple - pass front down, #3 white - pass rear up, #4 yellow - pass rear down, #5 not used, #6 white - driver up (to window motor connector up), #7 yellow/green - driver down (to auto relay connector pin #3), #8 white/blue - driver rear up, #9 yellow/blue - driver rear down, #10 orange/blue - light.

Connector "B" black - #1 purple/blue - power to rear windows (from cut off switch), #2 purple/blue - power from fuse panel (40 amp), #3 black - ground, #4 not used.

Motor Connector: yellow - to relay connector pin #5 (driver down), white - to master switch connector "A" pin #6 (driver up).

Auto Down Relay Connector: #1 black - ground, #2 Purple/orange - power (splices into purple/blue to master switch connector "B" pin #2), #3 yellow green - from master switch pin #7 (driver down), #4 not used, #5 yellow - to motor connector (down), #6 not used, #7 not used.

THINKING AGAIN.... could be that on the auto relay connector the three not used pins are for a relay that has auto up and down (european ford model?). If one could get the Ford relay part number you could add those wires to the connector (better yet get a replacement connector to match) and you could make the proper splices and have it all.... :D That would be the way to go, any idea on how to find that info? IF such an animal exists ;)
 
Ray said:
Seriously, though.. where did big-engine-big-power come in to this conversation? :confused: LOL
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IT's just me I rabbit trail a bit once in a while (see I always ment to add power windows to my o'l truck and in my mind that makes it fit in, but you all don't know that)...... back to thnk'n again, oKKKK :D
 
IRingTwyce - your correct about the switch being a two position in the 98's & up. I found one at the junk yard yesterday and got it just to look at, and it has an additional wire for the second postion of the drivers window switch. It also has an extra power wire in the B connector because the power feed is split between the front and rear windows. Don't know why they did that, but they did. Anyone got an idea if one noticed an advantage for the bubble switch over the flat switch? Perhaps someone that has owned cars with both kinds would have a preference?

Anyway, my trip was prompted by wanting to get info on what I'd need to do to install the relay in the passengers door for my auto down. Did I need to cut a hole for it, and if so where it would need to be located? I wanted this info to figure at what position to place the wiring in the harness in relationship to the other wires. I got a surprise because the hole for the relay is laready there and in the same location as the drivers door. I took pics of the doors for the file. so now I know where to cut in the wiring. It is raining here in Orygun and we expect it to stop around the end of next May :) so I'm working on this but in no hurry. Just wanted to let you know what I discovered. I know Ford has relays for all the window operations we'd like if we just knew where to find them.

The rear doors do not have a location for the relays.
 
Aussie Ford said:
IRingTwyce - your correct about the switch being a two position in the 98's & up. I found one at the junk yard yesterday and got it just to look at, and it has an additional wire for the second postion of the drivers window switch. It also has an extra power wire in the B connector because the power feed is split between the front and rear windows. Don't know why they did that, but they did. Anyone got an idea if one noticed an advantage for the bubble switch over the flat switch? Perhaps someone that has owned cars with both kinds would have a preference?
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They only had the raised window switches for the first half of 1998. In mid-98 and 99 they went back to flat window switches with the one-touch driver's down, in 2000 they got rid of one-touch driver's down.
I haven't used the flat switches, but I loved the raised ones and don't plan to own a Contour without them.
 
Wow, this thread just reminded me that tom was going to make them. I was supposidly on the group buy for it but I never heard anything on it as to where/when to send money. Sucks =(
 
The Digital Slacker said:
Wow, this thread just reminded me that tom was going to make them. I was supposidly on the group buy for it but I never heard anything on it as to where/when to send money. Sucks =(
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News Flash for 95-97 Tours..... I just completed my auto down on pass side harness. This process is really easy if you have access to an extra drivers harness with the relay. After doing the pinouts previously posted I cut out the wires for the auto down relay, and window motor making the wires as long as I could so I wouldn't be short. The power wire - purple/blue I cut it long on both sides of the splice w/ purple/orange that goes to the relay. As in my previous post about the hole already being in the door, I just figured that the wires then have to go in the same location as in the drivers side harness. I matched up the window motor wires and that puts the relay wires in the correct spot, at the junction with the speaker and mirror branches. I then unwrapped the pass harness and started with the window motor wires.
1) picked a spot and cut the white/purple (check pinouts in previous post) to the motor connector then then connected the white wire to it.
2) picked a spot and cut the yellow/purple to the motor, removed the pass motor connector. Connected the cut y/p wire to the yellow/green from the relay connector. You should now have the new motor wiring (cut out of the driver side) back in place.
3) with the motor connector in place now ran out the wires for the relay and they laid up wanting to turn out right at the junction of the mirror and speaker wires, so I knew they were in the correct place. striped a spot on the purple/white about 3/8" long (dont cut it), and soldered in the trimmed and striped purple/blue wire. This was toward the switch on the p/w wire from the relay wires purple/orange splice into the purple/blue.
4) cut other side of the purple/blue at the end of the covered splice with purple/orange and taped up the end so it is protected.
5) picked a spot and spliced the black wire from the relay in the same way.
6) retape the harness and install.

This all sounds difficult when you read it but if you were doing it with everything in front of you the it makes sense.

I have it figured out that even if you have a 98 car (bubble buttons) you can do this using pre 98 parts since the relay in the 98 cars have an extra wire for the two position switch. for 99 - 2k cars you would do this too and in 2k for auto down on drivers side you should just get a pre 98 harness with the auto down relay, and install it.

When you read this post does it make sense to you? I have just done it so it is clear to me, but let me know if I need to clarify.
 
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