Maintenance while removed ???'s

[svttouruofl]

I have the 2.5L out of my SVT at the moment to fix the clutch. What would be some things to check while the motor is out and somewhat apart to make it last much longer? It currently has 106K on it. Don't tell me to go with a 3L because this is just my DD and the SVT will never feel fast compared to my other car (see signature). But here's what I'm doing so far. -Have the Alternator ran through/replaced -Headers -Replace Timing chains and tensioners -Clean both the UIM and LIM The timing chains seem to be okay but I figure while I have it out I might as well replace them. Right now the motor is on the stand and the front cover, UIM, and valve covers are removed and the LIM is coming off tomorrow. Thanks for your help, Zack

 

[Ray]

Since you are cracking the tranny anyway, check the rear main seal and replace it for the (what is it??) $20 or whatever it costs for the seal itself.

Oh.. and you said your SVT could never feel as fast... a monster 3L build with a Turbo on it can push 400hp to the WHEELS.. at only 3100lbs its not any heavier than most drag dusters (~3125 w/driver)
This duster is trapping 121mph.. We've got Turbocharged 3.0s trapping almost that, even though they are netting 13.2s instead of 10.9s (a 2.3 60' doesn't help!! lol) That's a hell of a trap to make up after you get such a crappy 60'..

Surely the duster could make a better 1/4 (which is "quick") , but "fast"??? You'd be surprised...

Anyway.. that is off topic. You sound like you've got the maintenance pretty well planned out, but I would change that seal while you have it open...

TAKE PICTURES OF THE REMOVAL OR MAINTENANCE of anything... make a how-to.. help the members out!

 

[svttouruofl]

I understand what you're saying about the 3L TURBO build but my 6 speed is going to allow me to accomplish much more, on both the street and the strip. Matched with my 4.88's will allow for great take off on the strip, but the .5 overdrive in 6th will allow me to run 75 at 1950 rpms. Which is amazing behind a 440. Theoretically my Duster will redline at 207mph in 6th if I had the power to push it. I should however be pushing the 140's through the traps. My car will weigh a bit more...big block instead of small block, full cage, Dana 60. But it still is going to cut back with the suspensions and other weight reducing mods I'm partaking in. Not for that but just so happens to help. I also have a 100ci on that car with the same if not more mods. For the money I would have to put into the SVT for that I could have a much more fun and built the way I want it rwd car. And actually straight up comparing curb weights, the stock duster with a 318 weighs less than a stock svt. FYI. But I will try to get some pics for a how to. And are you talking about the real main seal in the trans right? I'm having it completely gone through with new synchro rings and everything.

 

[svttouruofl]

And why do my post keep bunching together in one paragraph? I'm pressing enter to separate things out but when I post it, it's all bunched together. It's kind of ticking me off...

 

[biminiLX]

I understand what you're saying about the 3L TURBO build but my 6 speed is going to allow me to accomplish much more, on both the street and the strip. Matched with my 4.88's will allow for great take off on the strip, but the .5 overdrive in 6th will allow me to run 75 at 1950 rpms. Which is amazing behind a 440. Theoretically my Duster will redline at 207mph in 6th if I had the power to push it. I should however be pushing the 140's through the traps. My car will weigh a bit more...big block instead of small block, full cage, Dana 60. But it still is going to cut back with the suspensions and other weight reducing mods I'm partaking in. Not for that but just so happens to help. I also have a 100ci on that car with the same if not more mods. For the money I would have to put into the SVT for that I could have a much more fun and built the way I want it rwd car. And actually straight up comparing curb weights, the stock duster with a 318 weighs less than a stock svt. FYI. But I will try to get some pics for a how to. And are you talking about the real main seal in the trans right? I'm having it completely gone through with new synchro rings and everything.

How are you planning on trapping 140mph? with only 550hp? :shrug:
I plan on trapping 145 range and planned on needing 800hp.
-J

 

[svttouruofl]

When I said trapping 140's I meant even in hopes of just hitting 140. But the t-56 will allow for me to say in my power band more but I am also planning on running a 200-250 shot. Mainly to only be used at the track. And again I have did some figuring and thats what my goal is and I may be way off. And with the nitrous it may be possible to break into the 140s but that would have to be a perfect run. I'm not saying it will be constantly even be in the 130 range. But I plan on unleashing it a few times on slicks and seeing what I can put down with a 250+ shot. If I blow it up I plan on putting a 528 in it at some point so its not a huge deal. Tell me more about your fox body....

 

[biminiLX]

You might get there with a 250 shot.
I trapped almost 126mph with 530hp at 3250lb range also with a stick.
Have fun and good luck, sounds like a cool project.
Here's the turbo Mustang p@rn (car in sig):

-J

 

[eepals]

I have the 2.5L out of my SVT at the moment to fix the clutch. What would be some things to check while the motor is out and somewhat apart to make it last much longer? It currently has 106K on it..... Thanks for your help, Zack

Replace the lower control arms. It's another $250 but it will never be easier than now with the engine out.

 

[svttouruofl]

Looks nice man. Mine is going to be mostly a street car since there really isn't a track around here close so whatever it runs, I'll be fine with. But I'm expecting at least the 130 range. Back to the SVT though.... My LIM is very dirty down in the ports. What is the proper way to clean this and does it have to be removed to do so?

Replace the lower control arms. It's another $250 but it will never be easier than now with the engine out.

I have been told this by a few people now. How do I tell if they need replacing or if they are in good shape? What goes wrong on them?

 

[striker2]

the bushings are what go bad in the LCAs. depending on what type you have (2-bolt or 4-bolt) will depend on how much it will cost. IIRC the 2-bolts are around $65 each while the 4-bolts are around $150 a piece.

just replace them. now is the easiest time to replace them since the subframe is sitting on the ground and the trans is off of it.

 

[Dyoel182]

Also you may look at repairing/filling or replacing the motor mounts and roll resistors.