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Dreaded P1518 on Duratec

Big Jim

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Sep 3, 2000
Messages
2,899
Location
Thousand Oaks, California, USA
I thought I would pass on what I learned today.

P1518 is IMRC (intake manifold runner control) stuck open.

If you have this code, take enough apart before buying an IMRC box to confirm that the linkage between the two banks of secondaries is in place. My story is as follows.

If the 1st retaining clip, the one on the bellcrank where the IMRC cable attaches, that holds the linkage rod between the two banks of secondaries breaks, eventually the rod will jam the bellcrank partly open, setting the above code.

The other end of the rod is easy to see, but the one at the bellcrank is nearly impossible to see unless you remove the throttle body.

When my check engine light came on and I pulled the P1518 code, I could tell that the cable wasn't moving. I could not see the linkage disconnect, so assumed the most likely cause was the IMRC box, and bought one. When I went to install the box, I found the clip broken and the linkage out and jamming the butterflys open.

It was at night, so I tried tying the rod in place. It lasted about 10 minutes of driving and fell off again, jamming the butterflys open again.

Much to my surprise, the local ford dealer had one in stock so I picked it up this morning and set about to install it. I had no trouble getting the old one out, but could not get the new one in position to press it into place, even with the throttle body removed. After several attempts, including making a tool to hold clip while trying to press it in I determined that there was not enough access without removing the upper intake manifold.

So off the manifold came. Access was still awkward, but good enough. The new clip installed, the rod back int place.

But with the intake off, I couldn't see putting it back together without cleaning it. Cleaning it loaded up whatever cylinders with open valves with cleaning fluids. Not wanting to hydraulic the engine I pulled the plugs (very easy with the intake off) to crank the engine over and blow out the cylinders. Good thing I did, as one cylinder seemed to be completely full. I'm glad I had a pile of rags over the spark plug holes or the junk would have made a mess of the engine compartment.

Since I'm less than 1000 miles short of the 240,000 mile service, new plugs went in.

It was too late to obtain new intake gaskets, so I was very careful with them, gently wiping them down and cleaning the mating surface on the upper intake. The old gasket looked fine, and all went back together well. The throttle body gasket and EGR gasket also were fine and reused.

So for the want of a $7.50 retainer clip (and overpriced at that), I ended up spending the morning pulling the upper intake, cleaning the lower intake, replacing plugs, and replacing the clip. Be prepared for all that effort, but the IMRC box is fine.
 
Since you have always been a proponent of the vacuum suck method of cleaning the intakes, how badly were the secondary butterflies caked up?

Did they look like the standard picture everone posts of their dirty intakes?
 
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They looked worse than I expected, but not as bad as most of the pictures. They did clean up fairly easy.

My car did not have the first vacuum suck cleaning until about 75,000 miles when it was introduced to me. I could easily tell the performance improvement. I suspect that I was behind the curve from that point on. Had the first one been done at about 30,000 miles things may have been different.

I still believe in the vacuum suck method and will continue to do it about every 15,000 miles, but now that I have had the upper intake off and see how easy it is to do, I will do it again, perhaps in combination with changing the plugs, as having the intake off made the plug swap easier.
 
did you pull the lim and clean the head ports out too? in my experience they were more gunked up than any manifold i've removed
 
No, I worked with the lower intake in place. I did look down as far as I could with a light and brush as far as I could reach. Like I said before what was there cleaned easily and there wasn't all that much there. The primary side was already reasonably clean. It was only the secondaries that needed work.
 
Good information Big Jim... thank you for the heads up. I just turned over 140k miles on my 2.5L MTX SE and lately have noticed a decent performance decrease even after regular maintenance and changing out a bad oxygen sensor... so I'm pretty sure that the upper and lower intake manifolds are pretty caked up. I'm debating pulling it all appart one day that I have time (ha ha) so that I can give it a good once over and hopefully gain some of that lost power back along with some fuel economy. How many of these little linkage bushings are there for the secondaries? I might as well get all of my parts in order before I start and replace all of the gaskets along with parts that wear like these linkage bushings. Do you have a part number and/or total number that are there so that I can be fully prepared with gaskets and bushings in hand before I begin? Thank you very much... again, very good information, thank you for sharing your info on this one.
 
Thank you Jim... I look forward to having everything in hand for when I decide to do this.
 
someone on here said you can pick up those clips from advance auto parts. a bag of clips for like $2.50. i cant remember who it was but it is worth checking out. they probably make 10 clips for 1 cent but sell it to us for almost $8 at the stealership.
 
... Do you have a part number and/or total number that are there so that I can be fully prepared with gaskets and bushings in hand before I begin?

Straight from the How to in Duratec Maintenenc. Read towards the bottom under OPTIONAL. Don't think the info is correct on the total # needed for a 95-97 model but my 96 only needs two IMRC grommets

Parts needed:
# Upper intake manifold gasket P/N F5RZ-9H486-BA (1 set) ~US $18
# (Looking for part numbers for 1998+ return and returnless injector O-rings, email Lance if you have these)
# OPTIONAL UIM Plastic Retainer Grommet with brass insert sleeve F5RZ-2A411-A ~US $8-10
# Throttle body gasket:
Regular non SVT Duratec
F5RZ-9E936-A
SVT Duratec
F5DZ-9E936-AE


# EGR gasket E6AZ-9D476-B US $1.35
# IAC gasket E83Z-9F670-A ~US <$1
# Several clean shop rags.
# Roll of shop towels (the blue kind). Great absorbency for cleaning.
# Brush with brass bristles (say that 10 times fast)

# A couple or three (or more) cans of Berryman's B12 spray, or liquid. (your choice.. I use two liquids and a spray, for heard to reach areas) (around 2.50 a can)
# A wire brush (not "sharp" bristles, just stiff..)
# A BUNCH of shop towels.. you can get a blue roll from a parts store for less than 3.00
# OPTIONAL Injector nose O-rings FOPZ-9229-A (pkg of 10) US $7.57 (1995-97 only)
# OPTIONAL Upper injector O-rings F5RZ-9229-AB (comes in a pkg of 6, but you are charged for each) US $17.16 (1995-97 only)

(Looking for part numbers for 1998+ return and returnless injector O-rings, email Lance if you have these)
# Lower intake manifold gasket F5RZ-9439-B (1 set) US $18.10
# Fuel rail to lower intake manifold seals F5RZ-9P867-A (you need 6) US $13.32 for 6 (1995-97 only)
# Injector wiring clip:

Clip number: WPT336
Part number: 3U2Z-14S411-JPA

# OPTIONAL Fuel pressure regulator F4SZ-9C968-A US $41.81
# OPTIONAL IMRC linkage grommets (3 for 1995-97, 2 for 1998+) F5RZ-9F955-AB ~US $15
# OPTIONAL UIM Plastic Retainer Grommet with brass insert sleeve F5RZ-2A411-A ~US $8-10
# OPTIONAL Small amount of clean motor oil for the injector O-rings.
# OPTIONAL Replacement PCV valve, while your in there you might as well change it.
 
DORMAN Part # 47099 Rockauto.com has for $3.25 ea

on-line at Advanced/Schuck's $8.99 ea and a Motormite enter $2.88ea.

Amazing range of prices and Oh yeah shipping OUCH!
 
Jim
Sorta like a chimney swift doing the dry method. Things were fairly neat and manageable until the Berryman's. Thankfully I have a shop vac just for the garage, I haven't looked at the filter yet? Better in the shop vac than down the cylinders. The liquid stuff.
Jim I used a cooper pipe inside burnishing brush, unfortunately I have one left for 5/8". Got remember to have assorted sizes, I think it would make the dry method faster. It would be nice to take the Lim off but too much gets disturbed and since the OBD-II misfire monitor Low and High showed clean no reason cause more troubles than fixed?
Beside the anxiety level is already high since I only have one vehicle on the road right now. Sorta like being in a fire fight and your M-16 jams.
UIM is another matter, but it still messy.
Well the wife came back from the Vet and she NOTICED a difference YES, it all worth while Jim. Early forced retirement causes a whole different re-think.
Thanks for the ideas!!!
 
Dirty intake runners

Dirty intake runners

If the engine is in good condition, and top tier fuel (Chevron Premium) consistantly used; what causes these to become "dirty" and require cleaning as previously described???
 
You can get a pack of 5 of those clips from Autozone, carquest, or Orielys all are less than $6.

If the engine is in good condition, and top tier fuel (Chevron Premium) consistantly used; what causes these to become "dirty" and require cleaning as previously described???


I would expect because of the Breathers. In the VC just that little bit of oil continously going in the intake builds up. I'm doing a 3L portmatch and just pulled the LIM today and OMG that thing was absolutely FILTHY bought 2 cans of brake clean to clean the outside of the engine used both on just one set of runners gotta go buy some more LMAO.
 
If the engine is in good condition, and top tier fuel (Chevron Premium) consistantly used; what causes these to become "dirty" and require cleaning as previously described???

The fuel you use is incidental. All of the buildup occurs ahead of the fuel injectors. In fact, the portions of the cylinder head ports where the fuel makes contact is often quite spotless.
 
If the engine is in good condition, and top tier fuel (Chevron Premium) consistantly used; what causes these to become "dirty" and require cleaning as previously described???


It is called "reversion" where the camshaft overlap causes the intake and exhaust valves to be open at the same time. This creates a combination cloud of exhaust gases plus fresh fuel and air to hover inside the intake manifold for an instant. This mixture will build up on the inside of the intake. Over time it gets nasty, however, it won't affect performance until it really starts to clog up the air flow.

As stated earlier, fuel type used has zero affect on this.
 
It is called "reversion" where the camshaft overlap causes the intake and exhaust valves to be open at the same time. This creates a combination cloud of exhaust gases plus fresh fuel and air to hover inside the intake manifold for an instant. This mixture will build up on the inside of the intake. Over time it gets nasty, however, it won't affect performance until it really starts to clog up the air flow.

As stated earlier, fuel type used has zero affect on this.
tt
So I have to ask then Why would a 150K mile 3L look like it just came off of the assembly line? it was that clean?
 
Does it also affect buildup if you used higher grade oils such as full synthetic all its life. Higher heat stable oil having less buildup on the intake?
 
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