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my 65mm issues

S

S2Knott

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Jan 29, 2005
Messages
1,020
Location
Sandwich, Massachusetts
ok so when i installed my tb today i had a few issues.

#1

i have about 2 inches of play in the cable and the pedal is on the floor, i was searching and i found a guy with a simial problem, and said he did something with a barrell and zip ties? id just like to get some help with that...

other issues, the 2nd throttle cable, i had to snip the end to get the end bit off then i put a new peace on and crimped it, so i only cut like 1/4-1/2 an inch off, and now its too short, and is holding the throttle open a tiny bit. so im not sure what to do at all for that.

lastly do i need a new gasket because the top of the tb is not sealed correctly i wedged half of an old credit card in there right now blocking it off but id like to make it right.

thanks for the help guys.
 
S2Knott said:
ok so when i installed my tb today i had a few issues.

#1

i have about 2 inches of play in the cable and the pedal is on the floor, i was searching and i found a guy with a simial problem, and said he did something with a barrell and zip ties? id just like to get some help with that... .
Click to expand...

Okay go inside the car with 3 or 4 zip ties. pull the bottom part of the pedal forward. You will see some slack there. That slack is what you want to shorten. You do this by placing the zip ties there. Add one after another till the pedal gets tight or has less play. You may put as much zip ties you want till you get the pedal exactly how you like it

S2Knott said:
other issues, the 2nd throttle cable, i had to snip the end to get the end bit off then i put a new peace on and crimped it, so i only cut like 1/4-1/2 an inch off, and now its too short, and is holding the throttle open a tiny bit. so im not sure what to do at all for that. .
Click to expand...
Well before you do the first step, pull the cord a bit on the other end and re crimp it down. That way your tension won't be soo tight allowing the plate of the tb to be closed inside the TB. I don't know why you even had to take it off. All you had to do was drill the hole on the mustang tb bracket a bit larger and the metal tab end would of slid in giving you that clearance and extra room.

S2Knott said:
lastly do i need a new gasket because the top of the tb is not sealed correctly i wedged half of an old credit card in there right now blocking it off but id like to make it right.
Click to expand...

Yes a new gasket is needed. Also you might want to jb the back side a bit at the bottom 2 indentations. The gasket does not cover these pockets completely. So i recommend doing this.

Then put on a new gasket. You will also be needing a stopping plate for your car so it doesn't over throttle making the plate flip forward causing an obstruction.

I can make you one for 5 dollars shipped to you if you wish. All it does is gets bolt-en onto your top right bolt to the TB.

Hope this helps :)

Also optomizing the tb which chris recomended did help me actually. I don't have any dyno proff but my but dyno and video recorders showed a quicker accelration in time :)
 
For the gaskets, use the mustang GT one and the svt contour one. Use the mustang one on the TB side and the svt one on the UIM side.
 
need some help here guys, i dont know what i have to do to make the throttle cable fit, its almost like the shaft is upside down check it out, first is the stock mounted and you can see where the cable was at the top,

323299128.jpg


2nd is the 65mm mounted and you can see where cable is in but its at the bottom, and it has no leverage.... so what can i do to make this work.????

323299124.jpg
 
Flip the shaft around 180 deg. Use the tab thingy on the TB shaft as a WOT stopper. It should hit the UIM perfectly at WOT if bent right.
 
why flip the shaft? am i missing something here?

THe shaft should remain the way it came. The wire gets inserted at the top and wraped around the bracket following the canal that was created for it.

Thats how it is on the svt tb. Follow how the svt tb is and it should work out fine.
 
Maybe you just do yours different Harry or w/e. Whatever works for you...this is the way I do it though. If you have another way thats easier, please tell him.
 
starjammir said:
Maybe you just do yours different Harry or w/e. Whatever works for you...this is the way I do it though. If you have another way thats easier, please tell him.
Click to expand...
Do you have a pick of your tb setup? Did you use the svt bracket or the mustang bracket?

I think you sent me a pick long ago, i don't seem to remember what it looked like though :shrug:
 
im interested in the bending set-up. Pics needed for sure. I have a long bolt that chris sent to me that stops the tb at WOT. The bolt is out of the pic but you can see the hole that was drilled.

CIMG1238.jpg
 
Harrry said:
Do you have a pick of your tb setup? Did you use the svt bracket or the mustang bracket?

I think you sent me a pick long ago, i don't seem to remember what it looked like though :shrug:
Click to expand...

I used the SVT bracket
RCcar005.jpg

You can see it a little bit in this pic.
 
He got the wrong mustang 65mm tb!!!

Your gonna have to install the svt bracket with the 65mm plate inside the 65mm tb for this to work. Or get a new mustang 65mm tb.

I'm sorry i missed this earlier but my laptop was at low lcd power, so the pictures were really dark.
 
HMM I dont think its the wrong one. It looks like the one I have on there now. If thats the case, you are going to have to extend the top half with JB weld for a stopper or something.
 
starjammir said:
HMM I dont think its the wrong one. It looks like the one I have on there now. If thats the case, you are going to have to extend the top half with JB weld for a stopper or something.
Click to expand...

If you take a look bill.

323299124.jpg


THe bracket is upside down.

.
 
ive heard it from a few different people now, all i have to do is flip that linkage 180 degrees and it will work BUT i got the tb, with one missing TPS screw and the other is 100% stripped.... so how the hell do i get that out, i dont wanna drill through a plastic sensor, and its not really at a cutable angle.
 
Please take a clearer picture of the TB please. As for the stripped TPS sensor, I cut a notch in the screw and used a big flat screw driver.
 
S2Knott said:
ive heard it from a few different people now, all i have to do is flip that linkage 180 degrees and it will work BUT i got the tb, with one missing TPS screw and the other is 100% stripped.... so how the hell do i get that out, i dont wanna drill through a plastic sensor, and its not really at a cutable angle.
Click to expand...

remove it, take a dremel with a disk and cut into the screw making a long cut. This will make it easy for you to slide in a screw driver. chris recomended this to me and has worked great since then.
 
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