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Falling out of overdrive on the freeway

C

clockworkdoc

New CEG'er
Joined
Jul 16, 2008
Messages
8
Hi all,

My name is Nick and I have a 2000 Ford Contour SE. It's been a great car for the past 7 years of ownership, but I started having problems ever since I crossed the 110000 mile threshold.

When I am driving on the freeway between 65-75 MPH, my car will mysteriously shift out of overdrive. My RPM's quickly raise form 2000 to 4000. After a few seconds, the transmission shifts back into overdrive. Sometimes this problem happens only once on my way to work, sometimes it happens many times, and others my car can not get back into O/D.


Reading around these forums, I found people with similar problems, but they never followed up with a solution post. Possible problems:
  • MLPS
  • VSS
  • Torque converter clutch solenoid
  • Throttle valve control cable
If you have resolved this problem, let me know.

Thanks!
 
May sound stupid and simple but what about the OD switch. When it falls out try hitting the switch to put it back in.
 
Nick,

You can eliminate the last two items... and probably the VSS, also.

The MLPS is a strong suspect as is the O/D cancel switch.

There are diagnostics that can be done with a decent scan tools to see if it's a problem on the control side (MLPS - PCM) or, if the controls are working correctly, if it's a hydraulic/mechanical concern.

First question is whether or not the O/D CANCEL light in the cluster comes on when the fault occurs. If so, I'd be looking at that switch and its wiring first.

Steve
 
projectSHO89 said:
Nick,

You can eliminate the last two items... and probably the VSS, also.

The MLPS is a strong suspect as is the O/D cancel switch.

There are diagnostics that can be done with a decent scan tools to see if it's a problem on the control side (MLPS - PCM) or, if the controls are working correctly, if it's a hydraulic/mechanical concern.

First question is whether or not the O/D CANCEL light in the cluster comes on when the fault occurs. If so, I'd be looking at that switch and its wiring first.

Steve
Click to expand...

Hi Steve,

Thanks for your thoughts. I read about that O/D Cancel light problem and I really hoped that I just didn't notice the light. Unfortunitely, there are no display difference on the console...except the battery light goes on after it bucks particularally violently. I'll take it in today and post what the trany guy says about the problem.

-Nick

Edit: I was reading up on this problem some more, and it looks like it may actually be an electrical issue rather than the transmission, but nothing definitive has ever been concluded.
 
Might want to inspect those four red power leads from the battery positive terminal to the junction box.

Mine were intermittently shorting out and causing some interesting symptoms, all of which have disappeared since my rework several weeks ago.

Steve
 
Problem solved!

I went to a great place called summit transmissions in La Mesa, CA. It was not a problem with the transmission box, rather it was the park neutral switch (Pringle Switch). They replaced it and its running as good as ever.
 
Pringle switch?

Pringle switch?

Where is the pringle switch located? In the shift console? Inquiring minds would like to know.
 
Anyone who uses the term "Pringle Switch" to describe or name any electrical component on a Ford automatic transmission is either ill-informed, ignorant, or is pulling your leg. Probably confused with the legend on the older column or console "PRNDL" indicators.

The correct term most like should have been Manual Lever Position Switch (MLPS). Other names that Ford uses for the switch/sensor that performs this operation include Digital Transmission Range (DTR) sensor or Transmission Range (TR) sensor. The term "Neutral Safety Switch (NSS)" is generally applicable only to older vehicles that did not have electronically-controlled transmissions.

Glad it was something as simple as the MLPS.

Steve
 
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