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Heater quits blowing warm after a few minutes and will not blow heat just cool air ?

00SVTGA

CEG'er
Joined
Mar 5, 2004
Messages
128
Location
Gwinnett , Ga
this month problem seems to be that the heater will only blow for about 5 minuites it will blow for 15-20 minutes sometimes when i get lucky however after that somthing cange i can hear a change in air flow and the HVAC will blow cool air no matter what the settings of the temp. controls . so i just turn it off instead of having it blow cool now its cold air in the dead of winter.

car is a 2000 csvt with very bad dash warp and 87K mileson it.

is this simply a problem with the control unit or knobs them selfs ? is there a way to fix this. no heater in the winter time sucks.

i search both heater and heat and could not find a similar post . any way to access the previous forum search engine ? i lke that set up 100x better.
 
this month problem seems to be that the heater will only blow for about 5 minuites it will blow for 15-20 minutes sometimes when i get lucky however after that somthing cange i can hear a change in air flow and the HVAC will blow cool air no matter what the settings of the temp. controls . so i just turn it off instead of having it blow cool now its cold air in the ....
Make sure car is not overheating. Broken water pump (with shaft spinning and impeller not spinning) might cause this.

Also check blend door actuator. Some good info in Autozone link.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1b/cf/90/0900823d801bcf90.jsp
 
i was thinking it might be the water pump also since i lost my first engine to a faulty plastic waterpump.

so i keep my eye glued to the temp gauge and it has not gone over half way and seems to be cooling over the passed couple of weeks . its not losing coolant because i check the tank it its stay about 1 inch over filled.

my coolant level light is on but i think is just a defective sensor.
 
My 2000 Contour SE has a similar problem. My problem is caused by a bad temperature selector switch. One of the pieces is kind of loose (stick thing that the knob fits on) so the switch automatically goes to cool air. Pushing on the knob returns it to hot air. A temporary fix for this that I have found is to put tape over the knob so that it is always being pushed in so it makes a connection. Try and push in on your knob when your air blows cold and feel to see if the air becomes hot again. Hope this helps.
 
i've tryed that in the pursuit to fix the problem with no luck pushing in the knob .

i'm thinking the wohle unit or the switch behind the knob is faulty

DAM* ITS COLD IN THE MORNING WITHOUT A HEATER.
 
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would a faulty thermostat cause this problem ?
No. A faulty thermostat (stuck on open) will take a longer time to warm up but it will eventually get to the engine operating temperature and then warm air should start flowing out the vents.
 
this might sound dumb but my dads truck did the same thing, it turns out he didnt have enough coolant in it. check your levels
 
One way to determine if the switch is working is to turn the ignition to the "on" position and turn the heater switch to defrost (or any other position except off) and turn the fan to the lowest setting so you can listen for the next part of this. Turn the temperature selector switch to cold wait a second and turn it all the way to hot. You should be able to hear a mechanical noise coming from the passenger footwell. If you hear this, your switch works definately, if you don't hear it your switch is broken or you have a smore serious problem.
 
this might sound dumb but my dads truck did the same thing, it turns out he didnt have enough coolant in it. check your levels


i already said that the coolant tank it about 1-2 inched over filled.

i was thinking it might be the water pump also since i lost my first engine to a faulty plastic waterpump.

so i keep my eye glued to the temp gauge and it has not gone over half way and seems to be cooling over the passed couple of weeks . its not losing coolant because i check the tank it its stay about 1 inch over filled.

my coolant level light is on but i think is just a defective sensor.
 
i'm always changeing the car stereo cd player & and or EQ in my car is it possible i have disconnected one of the vacuume lines that are located just to the left of that area or have the hose plug in incorrectly ?

can some one show me a diagram of what color goes where and what it sould look like . this very well could be the problem as in the eiarly stages of the problem i could stick my hand under the cd player area and pull the whole plastic surround which covers the HVAC controls and the cd palyer slot and the tempeture would blow hot again now it don't seem to matter what i try. is it possible i have dash warp so bad that the vacuume tube are getting pinched >? i have serious dash warp issues with my 2000 csvt.
 
As far as I remember, the vacuum tubes only control which vent(s) the air blows from. In the presence of no vacuum (disconnected vacuum tubes), the air would only come out of the defroster. It has been a while since I've poked around in that area so I'm not sure on colors. I want to say there are 6 tubes, 2 go to the passenger footwell area, 2 to the drivers footwell area and two go behind and to the left of the radio. From the way you described sticking your hand up and moving the plastic that surrounds the controls and getting some hot air leads me to think that something has come loose on the temperature selector switch. I would take it out and check to see that everything is tight and check to see if the switch even works.
 
Save yourself some time and reread the first reply in this thread. :shrug:
 
this month problem seems to be that the heater will only blow for about 5 minuites it will blow for 15-20 minutes sometimes when i get lucky however after that somthing cange i can hear a change in air flow and the HVAC will blow cool air no matter what the settings of the temp. controls . so i just turn it off instead of having it blow cool now its cold air in the dead of winter.

car is a 2000 csvt with very bad dash warp and 87K mileson it.

is this simply a problem with the control unit or knobs them selfs ? is there a way to fix this. no heater in the winter time sucks.

i search both heater and heat and could not find a similar post . any way to access the previous forum search engine ? i lke that set up 100x better.


Check the vacuum line going to the firewall that supplies the vacuum power to move the blend door inside the dash.
 
i've come to the conclusion that the temp or the fan speed switch is faulty


i've been able to turn the center position slector switch to off and rotate the speed and the temp control knob back and forth a few time and that seems to restore it to blowing hot air once i then select the panel on the center knob .

so i'll replace the whole switch assemble and see what happens . contour part are plenty at the local yards here.
 
Hoses?

Hoses?

I guess you could eliminate the cooling system as a culprit if you felt the heater core inlet and outlet hoses. If they're hot, then the problem is probably the temp blend door. If they're not hot, then the cooling system is the problem

It could always be both, god forbid it tho...:cool:
 
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