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What should I do first?

C

Chas

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
May 19, 2008
Messages
875
Location
AZ
Ok, so I'm working on the black turbo 98.5 SVT I bought last month. It needs a tune, as it wasn't done before I got it, and runs rich. It also needs a new clutch as the Spec Stage 2 thats in it needs a new TOB (making whining noise when 50% depressed) and seems to slip a bit, and I want a Stage 3+ anyways.

HOWEVER, I can't register the car until it passes emissions, and it currently has 6 codes on the CEL (some to do with it running rich).

I can't really do a good tune until the clutch works properly, but can't drive the car enough break in miles for a new clutch as it won't be registered.

What options do I have? I was told Stage 3+'s need 500 break-in miles, is this acurate, or can I fudge it down to 200ish miles?

Thanks,
Chas.
 
I'd stick with the 500 break in period, but i'm a stickler when it comes to things like that. Especially when you've taken all the time putting it in. Not like it's really a 15 minute job to put one in these cars. But on with the original question, is there a way you can run on like a 30 day tag before you have to get it registered and checked? Maybe have a bill of sale wrote out saying you just purchased the car, etc etc.
 
i was all for the spec stage 3+ because its perfect fora 3L turbo. but now i would not recommend it.


also you don't need a good clutch to get a tune. the engine runs how it runs. you want it on the rich side with the turbo anyway.

also post the codes in the troubleshooting forum for more help.
 
BrApple said:
i was all for the spec stage 3+ because its perfect fora 3L turbo. but now i would not recommend it.

also you don't need a good clutch to get a tune. the engine runs how it runs. you want it on the rich side with the turbo anyway.

also post the codes in the troubleshooting forum for more help.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the replys!

Would I be ok to drive Tucson - Phoenix and back (250 miles round trip) with a bad TOB and the car running very rich? Am I going to kill anything? :blackeye: I know ADC will want to do a pull on the dyno to check their tune, fuel pressure, etc. If the clutch slips a bit, it should only hurt the HP numbers, right?

What is the 'new' super clutch that everyone will be recommending? :shrug:
 
yeah you have a good point. well as for running right if you stay out of the boost while on the highway the a/f should be a a good number. I am running around 14:1 ata cruise condition. now when in boost my a/f hits 11.8:1 which is rich but not rich enough to be a problem. its tuned to be safe.

yeah dyno pulls on a bad clutch isn't a great idea.

again post the codes in troubleshooting as maybe some can be taken care of and are not related to the tune.

new best clutch to use? I have no idea. I was informed that a stock SVT clutch held up to a 2.5L turbo at over 260 wheel for daily driving. however I doubt one would want to launch or go to the strip or track with a stock clutch. I did note that the stock SVT pressure plate is rather similar looking to the Speac stage 3+ pressure plate.

I will be giving clutchnet.com a call and see what they recommend and try them. clutches look similar to spec but the disk hub design looks alot better.
 
11.8 is perfect, maybe even lean

11.8 is perfect, maybe even lean

turbos should not go above 12 during WOT - sounds like they did tune at the lean end for turbo'ed cars, if those are the numbers. I.e., this is not "rich" at all, but lean - you want to be very careful as there is little safety margin in this setup....have their been any fuel mods? I own another turbo car (SRT-4) and it hits 10 a/f at WOT with larger turbo, fuel mods!! Very rich, but this is a stage 2 kit from Mopar, so they set it this way for reliability. At cruise on hwy, I hit 14.5-15.0 - perfect for cruise.
 
Thanks for the replys!

I'll post the codes when I get home later this evening and post a link in this thread.
 
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