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BurritaSVT said:
The reason I was thinking of having two different setups is because I will need to prove this on the dyno but since you have larger primaries with weapon r's etc I may want to keep the diameter larger to reek the gains and spool up time while even offering that setup with a .82 housing now granted this kit may produce better and smoother numbers across the board.
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If this produces better performance, I would totally be down. I think I remember reading where Tom had the turbo spool up about 1000rpms sooner with the Weapon-R based system.

BTW, didn't some people have a hard time fitting the stock Y-pipe to the Weapon-R headers? I know some have used them with the stocker, but I would be nervous if the fit wasn't EXACT.
 
well I would have the car here anyways because of the larger piping on the turns plus i want to make sure the before I make a adapter jig for it so I wouls still need a car here or I will buy some either way.
 
any way we can just get like a kit without stock headers included ? unless ur modding them?

im down i just need the money anyone wanna lone me sum???

id like a front mount intercooler but thats just a dream

ohh plus just selling the piping for people who are on a limited budget would be good to but thats up to you guys i just think its awsome we get sum kits

that work
 
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I will order 5 sets then I will order 10 sets after the first set is done. Then I will order another 10 sets till I have some on the shelf. I will have them available all the time since I am building a jig I can mock on up in a day. I don't plan on stopping since I will be doing other kits for other cars too. Me and tom will hopefully make something bigger from all this time will tell.
 
When you are saying 2.5 and 3L, are you referring to SVT 2.5? Are there any necessary modifications for us non SVT 2.5er's?
 
ARE WE TAKING ALL NEW PARTS OR used items from a junkyard dsm ? the piping will have to be custom what about the wastegate & turbo new or used ?

if its just a mitsubishi hack kit i wouldn't want to spent more than $1,500 and you just might bearly get 255-265 whp out of a t25 or a 14b.

i'm all about adding 7-8 lbs of boost to my svt . however with 10:1:1 comp ratio it looks like it would work out better for the 2.5 se and the zetec boys better that the svt motors.

what kind of engine management are you thinking about ?

if you need a test mule i'm all for it.
 
I am definitely interested.

I currently have the 3L with port matched SVT UIM/LIM, stock manifords, optimized y-pipe, open K&N intake with heatshield. This setup sounds exactly match my current settings.

I believe I can have money for it. So please do make this kit!
 
OK all parts are brand new not one part is used i am using custom pipes and the parts will be new.

I am using a garrett turbo not going cheap at all on the main unit you need realiabilty for sure. All the piping will be 304 ss except for the end of the discharge pipe. I am even considering down the line selling the mild steel for those who want a little money knocked off since you can spray your pipes with heat treatment. heck even msds offers the mild steel which some here have but I will do a dyno later on to see how much the spool up performance is hampered matter of fact my first jig set will be mild to set up the permanent jig. I will dyno it then I will remove the pipe and wrap it to see gains then i will build ss pipes then dyno again then to see the benefits besides duarablity.

We will be using the best program xcal2 we will sell it without tune so you can have the option to do it yourself or a local shop or have our tune for a hair more.


the non svt should be the same besides the radiator may not support excess heat plus you will lose sum power due to cams and intakes but I imagine the it will still get 260whp or so.

Remember guys this is like 300hp to 340hp at the crank with tons of torque unlike the vortech or so. Have the necessary parts to handle the power.
 
So I am curious. I currently have the SPEC stage I with a Torsen T2 LSD. After installing this kit would you recommend an upgrade to a SPEC stage III along with beefier axles?

Whats the best source for the axles, as the only ones I know of are available through SP Motorsports. They only include the CV shafts and not the intermediate shaft, which I would believe would need to be upgraded as well wouldn't it?

Any comments/suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
 
Well I imagine the clutch will hold if it not worn you may not want to launch crazy becausse soon as you notice slipping you can mess up your clutch by heating it up and glazing it smooth. Your axles will be fine the SVT are stronger than the non-svt. And of course the torsen will be perfect too. Me and Tom will work hard to help anyone who needs to make their car better afterwards too.
 
I'm sorry if these have already been discussed.. but I did read everyones post (sometimes more than once). Some of my statements I'm just looking for verification.

* By the sound of it, the turbo will go in the y-pipe -- the front manifold won't be cut and turned 180 deg? Or are they going to be cut, and we'll need to return the "core"?

* The intercooler will be mounted behind the grill and not to the radiator/condenser. So those of us that have air-oil coolers can still run the intercooler. My oil and p/s coolers sits on a shelf that extends 2" in front of the condenser.

* Because of the MSDS being mild steel... which would be best: coated MSDS or coated OEM (gutted) manifolds?

* Will we need a wideband for Tom's xcal2 tune?

* Will we need to run different spark plugs (heat range)? If so, would it be cheaper to include them and buy in bulk?

* For Tom's xcal tunes... would he be able to unlock another companies xcal? If so... can he increase the range of some of the variables? (ie: more than just 4 deg timing at 4000-8000rpm)

Thanks!!
 
Burrita- What type of test can I perform to make sure my motor (almost 130k) could handle the turbo? Compression check... anythink else?
 
Burt you might as well pick up a 3 liter while you're at it. Its only another 400 bucks.
 
I wanted to run the turbo on my 2.5L for awhile for financial reasons. I can install the turbo on my own (with help), but I dont feel confident with the 3L swap.
 
Will the turbochargers be oil and water cooled, or just oil cooled. What might be the advantages/disadvantages of each?
 
I will not have it watercooled if they charge more if so then I will add it. The bigger benefit of having it water-cooled is that the oil will not boil after the motor is turned off after a hot run. Now I would recommend even though it is watercooled to idle it down for a minute after an extreme boost run or continous high boost spurts before turning it off.

The y pipe will follow the factory y pipe and collect up to the back cat. Now me and Tom are weighting out what option to do here we will either run two small 2" pipe from the rear pipe where it will connect into a merge connector to a 2.5 and have a flange there where it will turn up. Or we will have the merge under the rear manifold with flange here and use an oval 2.5 pipe to the front then turn up to the T3 flange I will post up a scetch of what I plan on doing. No the stock manifold will be untouch I will have flared ends to meet up to my Y pipe for both banks.

The intercooler will take the place of the power steering spot and if you have a oil cooler there then I will show you how to get the same results using cool tubes.

The kit will have the wide band we will invest in the wideband license soon but Tom has all the codes already.

I not going to offer the plugs but I would recommend TR6's no need to do that when you can go to o'reilly for that.

Tom can't look at other people programs but he can rewrite the whole thing for the kit or any application..

And if you need any tunes Tom can tune it regardless of what you have but I will answer this question that was asked about wideband. If you go once to a dyno you spent 150.00 then you change it to tweak it since you want the most of the setup then you go back to verify this once more and now you are $300 in dyno time. That is over the price for a true wide band that will not only save your motor in case something like a fuel pump or injectors goes out and destroys your motor. I don't know about you but I like the reassurance plus I can log it. I recommend a AEM I have it and I have it adapted to my xcal2 too.

Yes Rawburt why not just run the motor till it can't go anymore I would personally.
 
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