• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Oil Gauge

A

acontour

CEG'er
Joined
Dec 14, 2007
Messages
245
Hello guys ,

I'm trying to install an aftermarket oil pressure gauge but have no idea how to connect it to the fuse box..Is there a "how-to" anywhere?

http://myfordfocus.com/how-to/oilgauge.htm (This is what I'm looking to do but the explanation lacks schematics or how to wire the gauge to the dimmer control and to only be on when you turn the key to on)..

I'm also looking to install a water temperature gauge. I had it before installed in the thermostat housing but it leaked pretty bad. I'm thinking about installing a fitting in one of the heater hoses(before the firewall) ..

Thanks for any help....I'm pretty bad with car electronics.
 
yes this information has been posted before. Infact I have many a time noted how I wired in my guages.


you want to connect the power to either the yellow or green wire from the ignition. this way the guages come on in the acc or run postion. ground anywhere under the dash. and if lighting is required connect to the dimmer switch that has output varying with the dimmer.
 
BrApple said:
yes this information has been posted before. Infact I have many a time noted how I wired in my guages.


you want to connect the power to either the yellow or green wire from the ignition. this way the guages come on in the acc or run postion. ground anywhere under the dash. and if lighting is required connect to the dimmer switch that has output varying with the dimmer.
Click to expand...

Does it matter if I connect to the yellow or green? I'm looking to install 2 gauges and both have lighting. Also not going to mess with the fuse box at all? What's the best way to splice into an existing wire? I did a search ,and I couldn't find your post.
Thanks again
 
Honestly to be sure your best bet is to find the mentioned wires and probe them. I found the easiest way was to bug into the fuse box. I used special fuses with the wire attachments and then ran another inline safety fuse just to be safe. Just bust out the owners manual and a light probe, find the fuses you need and bingo. Done. As for running 2 gauges, wire them up together so you don't have a rats nest of wires. I mean splice the power wires together/dimmer wires together/grounds together.

Edit: Also if you are using a mechanical gauge, do NOT use the stock plastic oil line that the pics in those links show. Unless you want it to burst on you and run your motor dry/soak your interior with oil if it blows on the inside end. Get the autometer stainless line or just use flexible brake line. ALSO, it is a good idea to retain the stock idiot light. Why you ask? Because if the autometer takes a crap for any reason you still have a backup indicator. Just run a stainless line from the oil sender port to a secure place, T it and then run the stock sender and the aftermarket sender from it. I'm anal retentive too which is another reason to keep all the stock lights/gauges working too lol.
 
You can pretty easily find the old standard small copper oil gauge line that has worked for 50+ years. You really need mechanical gauge when it comes to oil, electrical sucks there. Indirect reading, I've seen motors blown that had acceptable oil reading with electric unit.
 
Keeping the old one

Keeping the old one

Hello again.
I am definetly keeping the stock senders for both the oil and water. Just wanted to get a better idea of what is going on , especially since Contours (at least pre98's) are prone to overheating quickly. I'm also looking on getting a more powerful electric fan.

For the oil gauge(FAZE) I'm going to install it into the head behind the coil. I already cut the braket so the 90 deg. 1/8 NPT fitting fits well. Then I added another 90 degree to point towards the firewall , where I will be running a nylon hose to the gauge which will sit on the other side of the coil braket(need to make a bracket)

As for the water temperature(AUTOMETER) , I have no idea where a good place to install it is. I'm thinking on one of the heater hoses since It is not a good idea to connect it to the plastic t-stat housing. I had it on there before and it leaked no matter what. Any thoughts??

LIke I said I'm pretty bad with electonics..ha ha.. So how would I put my multimeter to use to find the ignition cables? Also how do I splice another wire into it? Is there something special , like a 3-way connector? Any pics out there?
 
NononononononononoNO! on the nylon hose. AGAIN... DO NOT USE THE STOCK NYLON HOSE FOR A MECHANICAL GAUGE! IT WILL CRACK ON YOU AND SHOOT OIL EVERYWHERE!

As for water, have one of the metal coolant hoses tapped for it and put it in there. I don't know honestly, my Cobra did not give me issues with the sender port.
 
If one does not kink nylon hose it can work fine. I've used it several times with no trouble at all. All in how you run the line, if you run it to where it gets in the way it WILL get kinked and break. Many also overtighten the farrel on the plastic too, to make troubles. I've used it on motorcycle to allow front fork turning, gauge located on instrument package. Lasted for 8 years at 100 psi. Having said that, I prefer the copper line. Used it on many race cars.........

The only reliable coolant reading will be in that upper radiator hose just after stat. You also can't tap the thin walled metal tubes, at least all the ones I've seen. Not enough cross section.
 
On my Cobra I was fortunate enough to find a filler neck that comes tapped for the stock temp sensor. Apparently that was where the F series trucks had it stock so woot me. However if I were you I'd do the same thing except you'll have to get your filler neck drilled and tapped. Very reliable place to put the sensor.

As for the nylon hose, I still don't trust it. Too many places for it to chafe in a car and I've seen what happens when they do let go. If you are lucky it'll just make a mess in your engine comparment. If you are unlucky it'll break inside the car and good luck ever getting the carpet/back of the dash clean again. If you are REALLY unlucky you'll blow the motor. The copper would work ok but with my Cobra I used the Autometer stainless flexible line for the mechanical guage. Will not have issues with that for sure.
 
ScottyDsntKnow said:
NononononononononoNO! on the nylon hose. AGAIN... DO NOT USE THE STOCK NYLON HOSE FOR A MECHANICAL GAUGE! IT WILL CRACK ON YOU AND SHOOT OIL EVERYWHERE!

As for water, have one of the metal coolant hoses tapped for it and put it in there. I don't know honestly, my Cobra did not give me issues with the sender port.
Click to expand...

I forgot to mention that both gauges are electrical . So , no line will run inside of the car , but still thanks for letting me know about issues that might come from using a nylon line. The nylon line that I got is a black Eaton Synflex (explained below) which connects to a 1/8 NPT fitting. I will look and try to substitute it with a braided line if I can find a 1/8 on both ends.

For the water temperature , I will buy something like this http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=52 and put it into my upper radiator hose. Just have to measure the hose diameter. Install info for who cares: http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/1167.pdf

Great ideas guys , keep'em coming!

Any more help with the electrical part? Still trying to figure out where I need to install the power for the gauges along with their lighting . At least I got the grounds figured out!ha ha


Stainless steel hose:
http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=78

Copper tubing:
http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=81

Eaton Synflex 3R30
Hose cover: Polyurethane ,Reinforcement material: Synthetic Fiber,Core tube: Nylon
 
You won't need any lines if you are running electrical gauges... Unless you are talking about running a line from the oil sender to a brass T. Then you really should be using a braided metal line like I said before. My setup was a NPT (forget if the contour is 1/8" or 1/4") to -3AN adapter and a -3AN brake line to a stut tower. Then a -3AN to NPT adapter and that into a brass T fitting that you can get from any hardware store. Then I just put the stock and aftermarket sending units on either end of that and clamp the whole shebang to the strut tower.

As for reliability. The electricals are really not that bad but I'm in the same camp as amc49 as far as wanting mechanical. You get a direct reading at all times regardless of whether there is power or not. I feel much more comfortable with my Cobra having mechanical water and oil pressure gauges. I mean I'd say 99% of the time you won't have an electrical fail on you but that 1% still scares me especially if the car is a daily driver. This is why it is so important to keep the stock idiot light/gauge operational as well.

The only bad thing with a mechanical oil gauge is that getting a decent connecting hose attached to it and ran properly is a nightmare because of the adapters. Why Autometer will not use AN fittings on their mechanical oil gauges I will never understand. You have to use an adapter that takes up a LOT of room. I had to cut some plastic behind my dash and then order a custom hose with a 1/8" NPT fitting built in just to get it to sit flush in the gauge pod I have.

Again, with electrical you don't have these issues lol.
 
What about this??

What about this??

Yes , I'm running a line from the sender to a 90 degree fitting which is in the head.

One taught crossed my mind...just for temporary use untill I break in my engine , Isn't it easier to do this:

Run the sender wire to the gauge.(In the car)
Connect the gauge negative/ground to a ground place/bolt under the dash
Run the gauge power wire straight to the + on the battery
Add a toggle switch so it doesn't stay on all the time..
Forget about the gauge illumination for now..

????
 
If you're going to do that why not just use the fuse box and wire it up properly?

As for the oil line in the engine bay, you won't find a braided line with 1/8" NPT on both ends, they're all AN lines. This is why I suggested you order adapters. They're like $2 each from summit. Get two 1/8" NPT to -3AN adapters and whatever length of -3AN line you need. Done and done and no chance of it exploding in your engine bay.
 
ScottyDsntKnow said:
If you're going to do that why not just use the fuse box and wire it up properly?

As for the oil line in the engine bay, you won't find a braided line with 1/8" NPT on both ends, they're all AN lines. This is why I suggested you order adapters. They're like $2 each from summit. Get two 1/8" NPT to -3AN adapters and whatever length of -3AN line you need. Done and done and no chance of it exploding in your engine bay.
Click to expand...


Is this what you are talking about:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220322/http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=1/8" NPT to -3AN&dds=1
 
Yeah that's it but wow $9? I didn't use 90 degree fittings for the Cobra though so maybe that was why they were cheaper? You might not need a 90 degree fitting going into the T fitting either. Honestly it is all up to you. If you want the added insurance of a braided line you need these unless you can find a brake shop to make you a custom line with NPT fittings.
 
Here's a better view

Here's a better view

ScottyDsntKnow said:
Yeah that's it but wow $9? I didn't use 90 degree fittings for the Cobra though so maybe that was why they were cheaper? You might not need a 90 degree fitting going into the T fitting either. Honestly it is all up to you. If you want the added insurance of a braided line you need these unless you can find a brake shop to make you a custom line with NPT fittings.
Click to expand...

Yeah , pretty pricey..I'll try to find something locally on Monday. Here is what I'm working with. I cannot run a straight 3AN to 1/8 NPT because of limited space. The ignition coil sits really close to the head.(You can see where the four bolts are on the braket)

[
Photo1605.jpg


Photo1610.jpg


Photo1611.jpg
 
Update

Update

1999contour said:
As far as electrical connections if you decide not to use the fuse box I like to use these:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104093&clickid=prod_cs

makes it very easy to tap into an existing wire, don't have to cut or strip the old one.
Click to expand...

Cool , I was just thinking about these. Are they pretty reliable? It sure does make splicing two wires into an existing one easier.
Thanks

For an update, I ended up getting a stainless steel braided hose which is 4AN Female on both ends and got a 90 degree 1/8" NPT fitting to 4An (which goes into the head) , and a straight 1/8"NPT fitting to 4AN(the one for the oil sender) I'll post new pics soon

So did anyone who has done this before connect the lightning for the sensor gauge to the dimmer , the lights , or to the wires that run to the light knob??
 
I just pulled the owners manual out, found the fuse diagram, tested the dimmer fuse with a probe just to be sure it was what I wanted (the light on the probe dimmed when I dimmed the dash lights) and then put in one of the fuses with the crimp end for a wire on it. Bugged into that and my gauges dim with the dash lights. Do note though that I found my autometers really didn't dim that well at all and definitely not like the dash lights. Probably because they are the Phantom IIs with the LED lights. LEDs do not really dim...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top