Inspection Time

[sweetsvt]

I need to pass Pennsylvania state inspections this month, but my check engine light is on and I don't think I'll pass. I tried resetting it, by disconnecting the battery, but it comes back on within a couple of days and I cannot pass inspections immediately after the reset. When I last had my car's codes read I think the code was 1135 - O2 censor, which I had replaced. The check engine light was off for over a month and then came back on. Getting back to my original reason for the post, I would like to know if anyone here passes inspections with their check engine light on. If so, how? Are there any methods or tricks that anyone knows of?

 

[BrApple]

get the code scanned and let us know what it is ...

 

[rouar]

Someone in NECEG (Goonz I think?) passed his safety with a bit of electric tape hiding the CEL since it's low on the dash. Not exactly something I recommend, but feel free to try ...

but obviously you want to get the CEL fixed since it will prolong the life of your car in the long run, and possibly benefit gas mileage/etc/stuff. Echo Brapple, get the code scanned again ...

 

[sweetsvt]

I went to Advanced and got a print out of my codes. The first is P0171 - System too lean (Bank 1). The second is P0174 - System too lean (Bank 2). Any ideas on what this could be? The Chilton's manual says it has something to do with adaptive fuel. I have no idea what that means.

 

[Tony2005]

You have a massive vacuum leak. Check for broken hoses (plastic or rubber), missing or loose hose clamps, exhaust leaks, leak at air filter or MAF sensor (accordian tube) area. You may have to spray with carb cleaner to find the leak. If the idle changes while spraying, you found the leak.

Edit. From TSB, some reasons for P0171 and P0174.

P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1)
P0174 - System Too Lean (Bank 2)
The Adaptive Fuel Strategy continuously monitors fuel delivery hardware. The code is set when the adaptive fuel tables reach a rich calibrated limit.
Fuel System:
· Contaminated fuel injectors
· Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel (fuel pump, filter, fuel supply line restrictions)
· Vapor recovery system (VMV)
Induction System:
· MAF contamination
· Air leaks between the MAF and throttle body
· Vacuum leaks
· PCV system concern
· Improperly seated engine oil dipstick
EGR System:
· Leaking gasket
· Stuck EGR valve
· Leaking diaphragm or EVR
Base Engine:
· Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S
· Secondary air concern
Powertrain Control System:
· PCM concern

 

[projectSHO89]

You cannot (if the inspector is doing his job) pass an OBDII-based e-test if the MIL is either ON or non-functional. Your state should have a website that lists the inspection criteria. Consult it so you know what to expect.

Yes, you have a vacuum leak. The intake gaskets on the 2.5 are well known for failure and are, by far, the most common reason for these codes. Other possibilities are on the manual quotation that Tony provided.

Steve

 

[sweetsvt]

Thanks for the tips guys. I think i found the leak/s. I started my car and listened to the the leaks. Sure enough there was a lot of hissing towards the back of the engine and when I took a closer look, I discovered a two yellow vacuum lines completely broken. I went to pep boys bought a replacement hose and changed the old lines. I reset the cel and so far no check engine light, although I know it takes a day or two to come back on. Previously, when I reset the CEL by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for a few minutes, the car would buck and studder like crazy for about a minute before the idle got steady and then it would hold the idle at around 800-1000 rpm. This time around, after replacing the lines and the reset, the car found the 750 rpm idle very quickly without any bucking or studdering. I know this doesn't mean that I fixed it, but hopefully it's a good sign. Also, before replacing the vacuum lines my throttle would hang, but now it drops to 750 very smoothly every time. One thing that concerns me is I still hear some hissing in the same area where I replaced the broken lines. It's not nearly as bad as it was so I'm not sure if there are more leaks, or I'm just hearing the air moving around. Either way I'll drive around for a couple of days and hopefully the check engine light will not come back. If does, I'll go round two. Thanks again for your responses, they were very helpful and if you think I missed anything, let me know.