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Amp is acting up AGAIN

I will check the innards. I guess just look for melted things or burnt electronics?

If the amp is cooked how much does something like that cost to fix? Is it worth it? This amp is supposed to be worth some loot
 
Inside the amp you might not see any burned parts. If you do, you have a starting point. If you look in the Yellow Pages, maybe you can find a repair shop that could fix it. Might want to check car audio forums. First, I would check: positive side wiring at battery, fuses/ power distribution blocks, capacitors. Look for something loose (clamps,crimps,fuseholders). Is the car running when you are testing? It's possible the battery is weak if you are testing system with engine off. Also, does your system play without the audio art (when you disconnected power)? It looked like you have another amp in system.
 
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FavoriteMystaque said:
I would check: positive side wiring at battery, fuses/ power distribution blocks, capacitors. Look for something loose (clamps,crimps,fuseholders). Is the car running when you are testing? It's possible the battery is weak if you are testing system with engine off.
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positive wire is secured to positive terminal of the battery I checked to make sure it wasn't loose. The main in-line fuse by the battery is not blown. I do not have a dist block or capacitor (if your speaking about a farad cap). The car is not running when I was checking the voltage, however like I mentioned if I take a reading of the power wire and ground disconnected from the amp I get the needed 12v to turn on the amp. Its when I connect the power and ground to the amp and take a reading from the terminals these wires are hooked to is when I get a 6v reading and the amp does not turn on. Even when I start the car the amp does not turn on, however, I have not taken a reading at the terminals w/ the power and ground secured to the amp terminals and w/ the car on. I can try that tomorrow but if the amp was getting 12V w/ the car running the amp should turn on.
 
We can take a look at this Saturday, too. I have a couple amps we can swap out to see if that is the problem, or just put your amp in my car, as I know my wiring is ok. Boy, you're gonna have a completely different car on the way back home.:laugh:
 
getsum111 said:
We can take a look at this Saturday, too. I have a couple amps we can swap out to see if that is the problem, or just put your amp in my car, as I know my wiring is ok. Boy, you're gonna have a completely different car on the way back home.:laugh:
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Haha tell me about it :cool:. I really hope this amp is not toast b/c it can really push weight
 
Not that I'm snapping, but what type of RCA's are those? They look like a Scosche(?) set I got at Walmart once. They lasted about 2 months, then died. Drove me crazy trying to figure it out. If it's getting no signal, that may be your issue.
 
getsum111 said:
Not that I'm snapping, but what type of RCA's are those? They look like a Scosche(?) set I got at Walmart once. They lasted about 2 months, then died. Drove me crazy trying to figure it out. If it's getting no signal, that may be your issue.
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haha I believe they are scosche. I do have another set I believe but I don't know how much better they are. Looks like I'm going to have to tear my dash open and try some new RCA's :bah:....but if it works then it would def. be worth in :).

Even if the RCA's were bad wouldnt the amp still turn on though? Maybe not, just wondering.:ponder:
 
When mine went, they caused the amp to go into thermal protection mode. Mind you, the amp was a POS Sony, which you will see acting as a paperweight on my workbench Saturday.:laugh: But you could try switching them. I may even have an extra set if you don't, jusst to see if that's the problem.
 
I found another set of RCA's. They are a "no namer" set but I will try to give them a shot tomorrow to see if the Scosche's are the culprit.
 
getsum111 said:
Not that I'm snapping, but what type of RCA's are those? They look like a Scosche(?) set I got at Walmart once. They lasted about 2 months, then died. Drove me crazy trying to figure it out. If it's getting no signal, that may be your issue.
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I have the same set in my car i need to get them out and new ones in only my left side works as of right now and that will cut in and out everynow and then..Lasted me about 2 months as well..
 
teamSVTour said:
I found another set of RCA's. They are a "no namer" set but I will try to give them a shot tomorrow to see if the Scosche's are the culprit.
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You can check to see if the rca's are good by using your multimeter and setting it to continuity, usually the setting that generates a tone when the probes touch each other. To test the RCA's touch the tip on one end and the matching color and tip on the other end, do the same for the outer piece of the rca as well... if you get continuity... then they work, if not.... then you know what messed up.... Kinda of hard to do though with them still installed... unless you can slide the deck out of the dash and extend your leads from your multimeter with some wire... my require another set of hands.....
 
Looks like the culprit is my remote wire. I found out by doing this jump test. " Here is a video of what I'm saying

http://media.putfile.com/amp-84 "

When I do the jump test my amp powers up (light comes on) and bass comes out of the sub for a split second and then no sounds but the light stays on.

So what does this mean? Just re-spice in a new wire? Or does it mean my remote wire "stuff" inside my HU needs repaired?
 
What I would try next is disconnect the amp turn on lead from the amp and turn on the amp with the jumper wire, see if the bass stays on with the rest of the speakers. If it does, might want to check turn on wiring. If the amp still acts the same (on, no sound) wiggle rca connectors/wires.
 
I'm not sure I follow?? If I use the jumper wire (wire going from remote to power wire) the amp power light turns on and the sub operates for like 1/2 a second then stops but the amp power light still stays lit. They amp power light stays lit the entire time the jumper wire (wire going from remote to power wire) is used.
 
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