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D13

CEG'er
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
107
I have removed my alternator after 2.5 hours of work, cursed all ford engineers and their families, and tried to devise other mounting plans; what are the consequences of not re-installing the small L bracket on the back of the alternator. The main bolts and plates look and feel strong enough. I just don't thinks I can get it back in with my large hands and arms...

Thoughts?
 
oh come on, that the EASIEST thing to put back.

Just remember to breathe. relax.

If the bolt is falling out of the socket, use grease in the socket to hold the bolt in the socket. it works

attach alt side first, tighten, then move to the motor side one.
thats what i did. I struggled too for a while. but I said to myself I had to put this back or else I was a lousy home mechanic.

I used a swivel for the motor one, not the alt side one I used a reg socket and wrench.
 
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That's well and good...

But what if the alt will NOT go back in. I had to beat it out with a hammer and now I cannot get it in the bracket.

I think I am going to sue Ford for purposeful ****ty design. There is now way something this wrong is an accident.
 
I did BOTTOM bracket bolt first. I threaded the bolt thru from right side till u cant anymore cause the thread stops and the bolt thickens a wee bit,

then I came from the correct side and screwed and screwed and screwed, until i hit the bolt, then i loosened the bolt out all the way, and I torqued in the bottom one SLIGHTLY

I took a CROWBAR, and lined up the alt better, to the TOP ALT bracket bolt

Then i removed BAR, and tightened up the L BRACKET ONE loosely on both alt and motor (or whatever the L bracket connects to)

Then I was home free on the TOP bolt, it screwed in after a wee bit of finaggleing.

Why ford didnt FLUSH mount these bolts belt side is unreal.

A little enlarged valley so the bolt can sink in all the way to clear the belt would be an absolute LIFE SAVER. Friggin retards

But im so retarded i put it back in the stock way. cause i was so tired of the BS.

You almost definatly need a hand to do this it seems, one to kinda yell and B^%tch and moan to, (if youre helper can take it) and also to help out a bit.
 
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From Ford CD for 2.5 Duratec.

Installation
1. Position generator through right fender well. Install two connector packs. Install spade connector and nut. Tighten nut to 9-11 N-m (80-97 lb-in).

2. Raise vehicle.

3. Position generator to mounting bracket and install two retainers. Tighten retainers to 40-50 N-m (29-40 lb-ft).

4. Install generator brace and two bolts. Tighten bolts to 20-30N-m (15-22 lb-ft).

5. Install drive belt.

6. Install splash shield and two screws.

7. Install tie rod end to right steering knuckles. Install nut and tighten to 28 N-m (21 lb-ft). Install cotter pin.

8. Install right wheel assembly. Tighten wheel nuts to 85 N-m (63 lb-ft).

9. Lower vehicle.

10. Connect battery ground cable.

11. Start engine and check operation of generator.
 
wait, the brace (bracket) comes out??

I was wondering about that.

what I am referring to is this:

3. Position generator to mounting bracket and install two retainers. Tighten retainers to 40-50 N-m (29-40 lb-ft). <-----L bracket?? if it is then NVM....doo de dooo.



I am retarded.

I took out the 2 bolts. Not the whole brace AAAARGGGHH.

Anyway,

some one said in rays how to thread: (about the TOP ALT BOLT)

"i had not enough room to do it up top. so i did the drivers side wheel well with a 4' extension. worked like a charm. thanks guys"

I didnt even attempt to remove any shields from drivers side,
I stuck my hand in between firewall and engine, got a socket on that bad boy and with help and extensions, got that bugger in and out.

But if youre in a bind, might as well try this.
 
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D13 said:
That's well and good...

But what if the alt will NOT go back in. I had to beat it out with a hammer and now I cannot get it in the bracket.

I think I am going to sue Ford for purposeful ****ty design. There is now way something this wrong is an accident.
Click to expand...

The way I did it went pretty smooth.
  1. With 'L' bracket on the alt, battery disconnected, & car in the air, secure lower alt tab on lower bracket with the appropriate bolt. Securely attach electrical connections.
  2. Swing alt up as close to position as possible & hand thread small bolt through L bracket & into block.
  3. Tighten small bolt in L bracket & guide upper alternator mounting tab into upper bracket.
  4. From above, hand thread or place upper bolt.
  5. From driver wheel well with lots of socket extensions, torque that upper bolt in.
 
Unless the "mounting bracket" is Non-removable


3. Position generator to mounting bracket and install two retainers. Tighten retainers to 40-50 N-m (29-40 lb-ft).

4. Install generator brace and two bolts. Tighten bolts to 20-30N-m (15-22 lb-ft). <-----this one must be the L-Bracket dealio then. cause of the less trq pressure.
I thought you could remove the "mounting bracket"
But when I looked at it, it looked like you can't

God, why would ford do this to people??
My dad says its to FORCE you to go in for thier service.
But, wouldn't they want people to work on thier own cars?
I mean not everyone can afford Ford?

We should start a coalition of Auto Owner's to force the industry to make engines that WE can work on easier.

WHOS WITH ME!!!

we'll call it the Noob Foundation of Auto Owners or NFAO.

We would have to check the schematics of all vehicles to be released to meet OUR specifications of easiness.

If something goes wrong, we'll blame it on the Manufacturer.
 
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fordsvt98 said:
...God, why would ford do this to people??
My dad says its to FORCE you to go in for thier service.
But, wouldn't they want people to work on thier own cars?
I mean not everyone can afford Ford?

We should start a coalition of Auto Owner's to force the industry to make engines that WE can work on easier.

WHOS WITH ME!!!

we'll call it the Noob Foundation of Auto Owners or NFAO.

We would have to check the schematics of all vehicles to be released to meet OUR specifications of easiness.

If something goes wrong, we'll blame it on the Manufacturer.
Click to expand...
ROTFL. :laugh: ^^^^^^^^Post of the day. ^^^^^^^^^^

Actually, some of the reasons why cars are so hard to work on nowadays is because engines are bigger (or more so engine bay is smaller), front wheel drive, a/c, etc. In addition, the designers are just making everything fit in the engine bay. And not thinking of the mechanics/techs (even Ford Techs hate working on Contours) who have to work on the cars.
 
Ok, recap...

A wasted day.

Found out the secret to the reinstalling the alternator though.
1) Follow the write up save one thing - don't disconnect the sway bar, simple turn the wheel all the way to the left. Sway bar and connector will drop out of the way.
2) After removing alternator, remove three bolts from alternator mounting plate. If you have already removed the North/South bolt from the L bracket, you only need to remove the two closest to the passenger side wheel.
3) Remove bracket from vehicle.
4) aquire metal hammer or 3/4" metal plate.
5) Place hammer or plate into bracket channel between mounting holes for alternator.
6) Install alternator mounting bolts into mounting bracket backwards (from passengers side) by hand until tips are touching hammer/plate.
7) Spray metal bushings with lubricant (WD40).
8) Slowly tighten bolt until hammer/plate is flush with opposing side. Notice metal bushings have been pushed out to create clearance in mounting plate.
9) Reinstall alternator mounting plate on engine block.
10) Place alternator mounting bolt in upper hole from drivers side and let hang. Make sure not to insert too far.
11) Insert and connect alternator
12) Thread lower alternator bolt from passenger side.
13) Position alternator with ease.
14) slowly screw in lower alternator bolt to support alternator.
15) From top, press in alternator bolt and tighten to "finger tight".
16) From bottom, remove alternator bolt and install correctly - fully tighten down.
17) From top, tighten down alternator bolt.
18) Continue as usual.

As you tighten down the mounting bolts completely, the metal bushings will move in and pinch down on the alternator.

About the L bracket... lol Without it you can't go over 4500 RPMs. 8)

And about the club, there should be one. Let's think about the project...
1) All bolts are put into a place where they can only be reached reasonably during assembly.
2) Complete front drivetrain/suspension disassembly is recommended by the manufacturer.
3) Ford employees dispise this job.
4) Compare this to the alternator change on a Chevy Suburban - 20 minutes tops... ;)

Anyway, what I need help on now is how to get the L bracket bolt to block back in. My arms are too big to come down from the top; too big to come from wheel well; and I can't find a path from below. If there is any insight in getting this in, I would greatly appreciate in.

Thanks for the great write up and help from the members. Now I have to go repent of all the engineers I condemned to hell today.
 
D13 said:
Anyway, what I need help on now is how to get the L bracket bolt to block back in. My arms are too big to come down from the top; too big to come from wheel well; and I can't find a path from below. If there is any insight in getting this in, I would greatly appreciate in.
QUOTE]

This is the easiest of all the bolts! Flex-socket or u-joint on 10 or 12 in extension. Straight up from the bottom.
Click to expand...
 
Yes L bracket
what I did was before I stuffed the ALT in wheelwell, I attached the L Bracket to ALT FIRST, tightened, (but left it loose enuff to manipulate) then when ALT was in position I put in the bolt for L Bracket to block.

source:
HOME DEPOT

think: Socket Wrench: HUSKY 3/8" with 16" extendable handle model with ratcheting head 180deg rotation of head <-----crucial device for L Bracket
install.

Wow. I had a hard time understanding what your steps are but I think I have it down lol.

Congrats man.

I wish all of us here at CEG 29 years of alternator utilization. PLEASEPLEASE

I REPENT. FORGIVE MEEEEEE.
 
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The point of my steps is that the metal bushings in the alternator bracket were making it impossible for me to reninstall the alternator. After 40 minutes of trying and prying, I thought that there must be a better way - even if i would have to shave the alternator arms.

I pulled the bracket and thought what are these bushings in here. hmmmm... So i put my metal hammer into the bracket and used the alternator bolts as a press. The bushings slowly receeded back into the bracket. After I reinstalled the bracket, I could almost throw the alternator in there. Absolutely zero resistance. Then, when I reinstalled the alternator bolts, the bushings pressed back in to hold the alternator firmly.

I would seriously add this to the write up as the 10 minutes would have saved me (and probably others) the major pain of trying to force the alternator back into the bracket/mount.

I will look for that tool tomorrow.

Also, the L bracket bolts are the worst. The main bolts took me minutes to get out. For the upper I used 13MM - 3" - Ujoint - 8" - 10". Insert behind mounting tab for wire bundle (black plastic) behind upper block. Reach down between wire bundle and block to guide socket onto bolt. Lean extenstions at 45 degrees and attach wrench. Long shaft should fall right through mounting area for coil pack. For the lower I used 13MM - Ujoint - 8" - 10". Insert between oil pan and Y-pipe before O2 sensor. Guide above mounting plate for half shaft. Place head below Y-pipe closest to wheel well and look up between it and oil pan. Will see lower bolt through small gap. Reach around through wheel well and below alternator with left hand. Grab socket and guide to lower bolt. Use right arm to rotate wrench. Shafts should be at 30 degre angle coming out between O2, Y-pipe, and oil pan. Can use oil pan or Y-pipe for leverage.

I will also be looking at doing the maxifuse. Is this the right one?

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=1301&ptset=A&searchfor=Fusible+Link
 
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Bad link to maxifuse.

Local Auto Parts store should have them in stock.
Im not sure of AMP needed for replacement. Im sorry. Im having trouble finding it on here as well. Maybe thier all alike?

For the Maxi, I looked up from under my engine, and it looked easier to replace from there almost, the bottom. As on mine, I couldnt figure out how to release the maxi-fuse "BOX" from the Black Harness of Pain. And I didnt want to twist or break anything. Mine looked good so I dismissed it.

Oh the bushings were a pain for you. I see what you mean now.

And turning the wheel to gain access, instead of yanking the tie-rod, thats sweet man thanks for that tip. I didn't try that cause my car was jacked up on one side. and blah blah blah.


There is a small space, where the front exhaust comes down, almost by the oil filter, there is a gap, a small space, where you can hit the bottom alt bolt cleanly straight shot right at it with ONE extension, like a 16" ext. no swivel neccesary for bottom bolt in this small space. It was almost heavenly after stacking extensions with frustration to no avail for me.

Good job.
I couldnt give in to this job though, like you, it had to be done.
have a good one.
 
Just finished L bracket. Nice trick - take plastic baggy, cut square a little larger than 10 MM bolt head. Place plastic between bolt and 10 MM socket. Press together. Will hold bolt tight enought to snake up to L bracket mount. Heck, held tight enough to hold my socket and and extensions while I attached my wrench.

New problem though. From 1000 to 4500 RPMs the car is much stronger and smoother. Believe alternator helped quite a bit. But I can no longer rev beyond 4500. It seems like I am hitting a limiter or something. Engine behaves like the ignition is being retarded or something. Tach just bounces at 4500 and can go no further. Up to that point smooth and strong.

I did have a CEL for the upper firewall O2 sensor. Since the battery was pulled during alt replacement it has not returned.

Any ideas?
 
Is this an automatic? Are you trying to rev higher than 4500 in PARK? If yes (to both) then there isn't a problem.

Automatics have a rev limiter in Park.

If a manual, or if you are referring to "while driving" conditions, then look in to your secondary linkage not opening
 
Yes, it was in park. I will confirm on the road.

Thanks. Whew.

One last thing, anyone know where to get the press in "things" for the splash guard in the wheel well? Had to cut mine when removing.
 
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