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Need Special tool or not?

9

99 svt

CEG'er
Joined
Jan 21, 2007
Messages
148
Location
Leominster, MA
I am about to do my first clutch/tranny replacement on my SVT in a week. I have five days off to do it in. I read over the info in all-data and it mentions an engine-holding special tool. Is it possible to do the job without this tool?
Also how hard is it to remove the flyweel bolts without an impact? I have one but it isn't the strongest.
Finally, the instructions state to drop the tranny and engine together. They are both fully removed from the car?
Thanks for the clarification. Hopefully TH tranny, Quaife LSD, and Spec 1 equal long lasting fun.
 
You will need an engine hoist - no matter what. Shoot me a PM - I just finished one of these this week, my fourth. Include a contact # - I can save you some time and anguish.
 
you can do it without a hoist or the special engine tool (i recommend having several people help you though). you just need a couple of nice jacks and some wood blocks. i just did mine this past weekend and that was about the forth time i have done one. follow the ford cd, i have found it to be the best way.

you will drop the subframe to the ground and hold the engine and tranny up with the jacks then slowly let them done just enough to get the tranny out the drivers side. i personally don't like using an impact on the flywheel bolts, because they are on there very tight and all that hammering could scar up the crank bearings. just my opinion. sometimes a impact wont get them off anyway, if a air rachet doesn't take them off then use a breaker bar and have someone else wedge two of the flywheel bolts so you can keep the motor from turning.
 
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That seems a bit scary. There is no reason to completly drop the subframe - I've seen the transmission come out the fron as well as out of the wheel well. I used a 1/2" ratchet by hand to remove the flywheel bolts while I had a buddy holding a breaker bar to the other side of the crank. I just jerked hard like an impact would and they came loose - spun out by hand. Tightening is the same way - the specifications for flywheel bolts only say ~45-60 ft/lbs on the bolts - i.e. no breaker bar.

Rent/borrow a hoist - much better then propping your engine up on blocks from the oil pan. I wouldn't mind having the engine sit on the oilpan with blocks, but moving it up and down with a few jacks? -=Dangerous=- A hoist is simple and safe. First remove the steering from inside the car via 1 bolt - shaft will slide off while lowering subframe. Just pull the front 2 subframe bolts, loosen the rear two, remove a/c lines from passanger side, condenser from drivers. Support radiator and remove roll resistors. Support engine by hoist - remove battery box and remove motor/transmission mount on drivers side. Pull LCA's (dont mess with balljoint pinch joint, it sucks) and support them. Pull off abs sensor and brake caliper off drivers side and hang. Remove entire strut and LCA from drivers side via 2 LCA bolts and the one nut on top of the strut. Remove 2 bolts holding the vibration dampener on the passanger side and remove CV shaft. I was able to remove the shaft by only removing the LCA bolts and popping it out. I left the strut, brakes, and abs sensor alone. Remove the sway bar support like so you will have movement of it on drivers side - it will be in the way of thansmission. Pull cv out of the boot on drivers side - much easier then pulling the actual axle out while it is in the car. Remove shift linkages and speed control from the rear of the transmission & exhaust y-pipe. Take out the shift tower and set aside - the starter will be removed as soon as the transmission is sitting on the subframe. Remove bolts from transmission and have a person on the ground pull out while a person on top supports through the shift tower hole. Set transmission in a comfertable place and remove starter - turn transmission 90* and slide out of wheel well - tricky because of the weight. There are a few things I have skipped that you will notice when doing the job (front O2, slave cylinder line, grounds off the side of the transmission etc.) This job isn't bad - make cardboard cutouts and punch bolts through them according to drawn diagram - have a clean workspace, somthing to drink and some good tunes.

Wonder what the Ford CD says - I've done this 4 times and I know for sure there was no alignment needed for 2 of them - both Torsen installs.
 
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I am going to have fun I see. Thanks for the advice. I might be able to borrow an engine lift. I'll be doing most of the work by myself, maybe with a little help from my brother if he is free. The things I'll do to save $650. Might as well use my college education.
 
a lift would definately make things alot easier. i do agree on that. it is still a crappy job.:blackeye:

and my honest opinion, from someone has done several of these, it's darn near impossible to do it by yourself, plus it isn't safe at all even with an engine lift. please have someone to help preferably with some experience. man i'm getting old, worried about peoples safety and crap all the time.:cool:
 
I've done a clutch before, just not on a contour. I'm not going to take any crazy risks and will hopefully have some help when it is needed. Thanks for the concern. Adapt and overcome is the Marine Corp way.
 
Well my flywheel is away being turned and will be done today. What a job, especially with the Vortech SC and a NOS system in the way.
I found out I should have listened to my mechanical instinct and not the two full time mechanics that swore it was the tranny. The clutch center tore away from the rest of the clutch. I figured that they were more experienced then I am, which they are, but whatever. I now have a better, like new MTX with a quaife and a good tranny to sell.
Today and some of tomorrow will be throwing everything back together and praying to God that I did everything right.
 
Umm pulling a trans and not putting in another with a Quaife or torsen is idiotic. Don't come crying when the stock diff. goes and you have to pull it again.
 
I AM putting in the one with the quaife. I will be selling the old MTX. Sorry if I came across as the opposite. A stock/slightly modified Contour is fine with the open diff if it isn't beaten all the time.
 
Well I got the new tranny and clutch in and everything back together. now it won't start. It clicked a little like the starter didn't have enough juice to go, then nothing. The PB MIL showed dim as well. I installed a new starter before I put the tranny in as insurance and a jump didn't help. My vacation time was over and I had to drive 180 mile back home. I'll get this thing on the road sometime. What a mess.
 
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