65mm TB

[rkneeshaw]

and btw thank you Josh for the pics, those are a great help!

 

[warmonger]

**I'm not bashing anyone's methods or putting them down in any way, i have a ton of respect for most of the people involved in this thread. What i am saying is that the information available isn't clear enough. Hell, if i can't figure it out i know there are many others will have trouble, and I'm not trying to gloat. I did my research and thought i was all ready to build my TB....there was obviously information missing because i was dumbfounded for some time trying to figure it out. I thought about lengthening the 65mm shaft and building some kind of stop for the fulcrum....but it was easier for me to just use a different linkage ball and go with the SE TB cable.**

Oh I really think I feel disliked by your itemized response system. I only do that to people when I DON'T like their attitude, or it is a very very detailed response and I can't do it any other way. I'm hurt. :laugh:

Again, I don't have any problems with what you are doing but I can search the old forums and still dredge up posts showing pictures and complete descriptions of what needs to be done. I'm not saying it is easy to find any more but it was there. What I find particularly ironic was that this post is an actual response to YOU where I explained about the throttle stop, the linkage extensions, and the sandwich gasket/adapter.:shrug:

SEARCH RESULTS: http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=turbo&Number=871851&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=4&vc=1


So let me reiterate:
The method used to make a throttle stop is a metal tab that is bolted on to the top right throttlebody bolt. The fulcrum rotates and strikes the plate and stops. You adjust the opening point by bending the tab in or out. Simplest way I could think of.

Ask anyone who has purchased a built TB from me. I convert it by using the old SVT linkage OR using the whole SVT shaft and linkage and provide a bent metal tab throttle stop set up to prevent the plate from being pushed past full open and destroying the TPS.
Next I make the sheet metal adapter plate and then supply the two gaskets for it.
I generally like to laminate the two gaskets to the sheet metal adapter plate so that it becomes a 3 Layer composite gasket/adapter that stays together whenever the TB is removed for cleanings.

 

[Pole120]

I feel incredibly stupid....:blackeye:

I actually ahve the side-by-side picture of the stock and 70mm saved one my home HD.

FWIW the only reason I itemized your response is it was easier for me to respond to all the points i wanted to try and cover. Helps me focus on one thing at a time.

Hopefully this all helps others to better understand the processes that can be used, perhaps I or we can take the time in the near future to condense the information available and add it to a sticky.

 

[morbid]

This is what I'm looking for. But what about the problem Josh highlighted about the o-rings on the svt shaft not sealing? It looks/sounds like a problem although I haven't heard of anyone saying they have a vacuum leak after installing one of these...

The o-rings sit between the bore and the housing. It's sealed... but I understand the concern.

For those needing to extend their shaft (uh, heh) mcmaster carries 10mm rod stock. I made a spacer with a tab and notch to fit the cam and shaft... just never got it welded. I got impatient and just widened the SVT butterfly mount and made a throttle stop and was done with it. Though... the SVT tab only was in the TPS by about 1-2mm's, and it eventually trimmed the edge off the TPS. That's why I had to extend the tab in the the TPS further... by shortening the TPS mount.

 

[warmonger]

Pole, No worries man! I should have had a better attitude about it the first time and just pointed you in the right direction. :nonono:
Sorry about that.
If you need any detailed pics or other information just let me know.

 

[DemonSVT]

The 65mm TB is on just about all 4.6L SOHC passenger car engines from 96 on up. Mustang, Crown, Vic, Grand Marquis...

You can use the 65mm linkage and shaft by rotating it 180 degrees but using the linkage arm as a stop is pretty piss poor. It very quickly gives in to letting the throttle plate open past 90 degrees. (i.e. effectively closing the throttle in reverse)

If you have an SVT TB then you are set by swapping the linkage. Otherwise you will have to make your own POSITIVE throttle stop. Do not just settle for using the arm on the 65mm TB linkage.

 

[Bradness]

Mine is completely different, somewhat simple but I have access to a full blown Machine Shop. I had a damaged 60mm t-body where someone had cut away the wrong side of the shaft for optimizing so I used the fulcrum and return springs.

Here's what I did: Take apart both t-bodies. Mill away the shaft swaging on the 60mm & 65mm fulcrums. Drill and tap the 65mm shaft. Install the 60mm fulcrum on the 65mm shaft. Mill approx. .125 from the TPS housing on the 65mm casting. Mill approx. .125" from the linkage/fulcrum side of the casting to provide room for the SVT return springs. Fabricate an adjustable throttle stop which bolts to the upper RH mount. Optimize the internal casting, plate and shaft. Assemble and install with custom stamped gaskets with ID of 2.75". No gasket sandwiches req'd. Works great and looks completely stock.