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fuel pump trouble shooting

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vmax12

New CEG'er
Joined
May 25, 2007
Messages
21
Location
Nashville TN
Hello All,
First post. Great site! Tons of info.!
I recently purchased a 2000 CSVT and I think I have the common fuel pump problems. This is what I experienced so far: Low fuel light came on while driving. Kept driving, car stumbled several times, but kept running, no big deal parked car. Next morning started car, immediately died and would not re-start. Added 2 gallon of gas thinking low fuel, gas guage read a little under 1/4 tank. Added gas, car would not start. Read on the forum to disconnect neg. bat. cable (can't remember where I read it....), reconnected cable and car started. Added 5 gallon fuel and drove for a week. When the guage hit about a 1/4 tank of fuel, no start condition reoccured. Tried disconnect/reconnect neg. bat. cable again, but was no help. I haven't added fuel yet, thinking I'd find out if I need to change the fuel pump. With my ear on a screwdriver touching the pump while someone else turns the ignition switch,I think I can hear the pump prime when ignition is turned on. It is a faint hum for approx. 2-3 seconds. :shrug:
Should the next step be check fuel pressure at the engine? If so, where is the fuel test port/shrader valve located? :blackeye:
 
Your lower fuel sock is likely crudded full of crap. Easiest thing to do is to get it going, and not let the gas get below about 3/8 of a tank.

the "right" thing to do would be to go in through the back seat and remove the fuel pump, and inspect. Follow the "fuel pump how-to" under Duratec Maintenance, in the "read me first" thread.
 
THANKS A BUNCH! Know that I have used the search function of the forum before I posted. I'll pull the pump, inspect and post results.

If I do end up changing the pump what year FSVT pump do I ask for at the parts counter? Patrick:nonono:
 
Pulled pump today, internal sock filter was plugged up,cleaned reinstalled car fired right up. :crazy:

Thanks for the replies and help.

Next step : I have the batt light at higher RPM issue, dimming dash lights,so I am gonna do the alt wiring mod.

Thanks Vmax12:blackeye:
 
The (battery light at HIGH rpm) is not the wiring issue. That issue is for the battery light coming on at LOW rpm, then going away at HIGH rpm (once the engine spins enough to overcompensate for the low voltage issue you had.

Your issue (on at HIGH rpm) is likely an alternator failing. notice which rpm the light comes on at. The RPM will either likely drop to a lower level (which now turns the light on) or the light will come on steadily, at any rpm. Either of those two scenarios are going to happen in the near future.

If you want it to LAST after you replace your alternator, get a Motorcraft.. NEW.. not remanufactured...
If you don't mind getting your hands dirty slightly more often, get the $160-$190 option remanufactured alternator. It may last a couple of years, but it MAY fail in 6-8 months.. you never can tell with those.

Follow the how-to in the Duratec Maintenance Forum, under "Read-me First" to see how to replace the alternator, and inspect the wiring for it.. Do it yourself.. save yourself a TON of money.
 
Thanks for the info sorry about getting back any sooner I have a diesel ford truck that has an issue and I have been on some other forums workin out the bugs, The SVT plays second fiddel to my truck but I do love it, sunroof stuck open today had to take it apart and order a gear.

So ya'll are saying the alt is coming south, about 5200 hun is when light comes on I guess I will make room for a ford factory alt in the beer fund .

Like I said I got two fords acting up, so I will try and be prompt with my updates thanks VMAX!@
 
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