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Rear rotor prep for Warmonger's Kit

R

Redlineracer12

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Apr 26, 2004
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Twin Cities, MN
Well I got my brand new FSVT Rotors installed a couple weeks ago and now I finally intend to do the rears this week... My brand new OEM FSVT rotors have a nice silver painted hub and silver painted in the vent of the rotor. Now I have my ugly old CSVT rotors for the rear of the car but they are all rusty on the hub surface and in the vented area.

I have heard of a lot of people using wire brushes and cleaner for this sort of thing which is probably what I'll do if this doesn't sound logical but I'm wondering would I just be able to sandblast the rotors? Would that damage the contact area at all? I mean I can always blast them then have the rotors turned right? What I'd like to do is sandblast them, tape off the contact area and spray them up with silver brake caliper paint, and then have them turned.

Sound alright? I'm just wondering on the sandblasting damaging the rotor because I didn't come across any other posts regarding this issue with rotors.
 
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That should not be a problem. I would be a little careful with it and attempt to not blast the friction surface even though you will be getting it machined.

Even if you don't clean off the rust, you can still paint them. It will still be helpful, even if the paint would be better if the surface is cleaned.
 
I just used a wire brush. Cleans up some of the surface rust. Then just spray away.

No need to get it all perfect. My paint is lasting very well.
 
SVTJON87 said:
what about getting rust remover from a resto place. like eastwood.com
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na, it sucks. been there done that and wont do it again.


When I took my CSVT fronts (to be mounted on the rears) to get them turned I asked if they could clean them up a bit and they went ahead and sandblasted them and they came back absolutely beautiful! Looked brand new, so I put a couple coats of VHT caliper paint on the hub and its still holding up very well.

By the looks of it, they sandblasted first then turned the friction surface.
 
rkneeshaw said:
When I took my CSVT fronts (to be mounted on the rears) to get them turned I asked if they could clean them up a bit and they went ahead and sandblasted them and they came back absolutely beautiful! Looked brand new, so I put a couple coats of VHT caliper paint on the hub and its still holding up very well.

By the looks of it, they sandblasted first then turned the friction surface.
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Thanks! That's what i wanted to hear ;) I'll check with the machine shop down the road to see if they will do them for me and if at any additional charge. :)
 
In Tom's instructions he said to turn down the rotors .015. This was not enough on my car even with used pads. I ended up taking the anti squeek backing plates off and then they worked. If someone has new rotors and pads they will need to take more than .015. How much I'm not sure.
 
todras said:
In Tom's instructions he said to turn down the rotors .015. This was not enough on my car even with used pads. I ended up taking the anti squeek backing plates off and then they worked. If someone has new rotors and pads they will need to take more than .015. How much I'm not sure.
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I thought he said somewhere that you could just have them turned down to the service limit or whatever and that would be better off, being that they are in the rear he said that was still plenty thick and would probably never need replacing.
 
Got my rotors blasted and turned down to about 21.6mm each. It was taking a long time to take that much meat off the rotors and I didn't want to waste my buddies time turning them any farther. Thats still .6mm under the original spec so they should go in pretty well :)

I'm letting the paint dry this very minute.
Here is before paint:

278mmRearRotors.jpg


I probably should've had my rotors turned after the paint and opened up the seat of the rotors so they fit nice before paint but I will touch it up after I get them fitted this week ;)
 
Update with pics

Update with pics

Everything is put together and the car is drivable again :cool: Minus the fact that my vents aren't working :shrug: I'll have to check my vacuum lines later.

Anywho here is a picture when I finished the passenger side. If everything goes well I'll snap some more pictures of the finished product tonight.

RearBrakeProgress.jpg



PS I also picked up some Cougar pedals and I love them!

CougarPedals.jpg
 
todras said:
In Tom's instructions he said to turn down the rotors .015. This was not enough on my car even with used pads. I ended up taking the anti squeek backing plates off and then they worked. If someone has new rotors and pads they will need to take more than .015. How much I'm not sure.
Click to expand...

And on a side note... I used BRAND NEW pads with my rotors at 21.6mm and they fit but barely (required a light tap to get the calipers over the pads) :)

I assume you were having problems getting the caliper over them?
 
What pads? Did you stick the backing shims on them if they were equipped with them? I'm still getting a noise on my pass. rear. Might need to do some more modifying but nothing is rubbing. I'm guessing the lack of pad & rotor clearance. I figured my pads were wear more but it's taking longer than expected.
 
Brand new Bendix organics... Didn't appear to have shims in the box. Yeah I imagine those rear pads don't wear much at all because I replaced them a few years ago and they were still almost as thick as the new ones.
 
Yeah on a side note... I think I'm going to pull mine off and tape off where I've seen the pad is rubbing. Then I can spray the rest of the rotor surface. It's probably a good idea being that as soon as you get any moisture on that inner surface it will rust and since your pad doesn't contact it at all it will never get cleaned off. ;)
 
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