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Lucas engine oil stabilizer (a must read for Hybrid guys!)

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say this: I bet if you drop the pan and look into the pickup tube you will find some sort of flow decreasing particles. I have seen first hand RTV Black start to clog up an oil pickup tube. This would support the intermittent lack of oil pressure. I have seen many people use different RTV's/gasket makers to seal the front covers and even appllied it to the pan gasket to 'ensure' a proper seal. The problem with this is when the RTV/Gasket maker gets real hot...which it will in those areas...it begins to break away from the mating surface and ending up in the pan and on to the pickup tube. The Lucas Oil is not near as thick as the regular oils that we are used to adding to our motors. I bet this thinner additive is making its way through the pickup tube and on to the vital parts.

In short, drop the pan and inspect.
 
You do realize that Lucas oil stabilizer foams right? Bob the oil guy (IIRC) has a sickeningly stunning demo with an electric motor (turning gears) foaming the Lucas at a mere 300rpm. Imagine idle, 3000, 6000, 7500... Also anything that's goal is to use mass amounts of Viscosity Index improvers (solid particulates used to "thicken" oil) to mask engine problems is a serious step in the wrong direction. Just another typical POS oil additive.
 
Oil is used because it is a liquid and can be pressurized into bearing areas. It's a fluid layer under pressure that keeps the metal bearings apart. fluid is not compressible like solids.
Foaming means that like soap bubbles there is gas trapped in the oil, Air. This IS compressible and means that the layer of fluid can no longer protect the bearings becaus the air in the oil will compress under pressure and then the metal will make contact.

If Demon is right that it foams, I would get rid of it.

Maybe you should just change to a thicker multigrade oil.

My Volvo owners manual is one of the first manuals I've read that actually explains to run thicker weight oils in higher summer temps and thinner weight oils in cooler temps to prolong the life of the engine. It actually states that at the expense of some gas mileage the thicker oil protects better.
<polishes fingernails on shirt> As I've been touting for a while.... lol

I recommend 10w40 for summer or temps. I used 20w50 in Az with 100-115*F temps.
 
Love Lucas, makes engine run better. Sure it's American made, but that's why it works on the outside and on the inside just another POS additive :).

p.s. don't flame, im tired right now and im going to bed.
 
warmonger said:
Oil is used because it is a liquid and can be pressurized into bearing areas. It's a fluid layer under pressure that keeps the metal bearings apart. fluid is not compressible like solids.
Foaming means that like soap bubbles there is gas trapped in the oil, Air. This IS compressible and means that the layer of fluid can no longer protect the bearings becaus the air in the oil will compress under pressure and then the metal will make contact.

If Demon is right that it foams, I would get rid of it.

Maybe you should just change to a thicker multigrade oil.

My Volvo owners manual is one of the first manuals I've read that actually explains to run thicker weight oils in higher summer temps and thinner weight oils in cooler temps to prolong the life of the engine. It actually states that at the expense of some gas mileage the thicker oil protects better.
<polishes fingernails on shirt> As I've been touting for a while.... lol

I recommend 10w40 for summer or temps. I used 20w50 in Az with 100-115*F temps.
Click to expand...

On this same note I was told by a knowledgable gentleman that ford and others spec their new cars with 5w20 simply so they can get that extra 1-2mpg for CAFE regulations. :rolleyes:

If you care about the longevity of your motor, listen to what Tom posted.

I run 10w30 in the summer in MI (it doesn't get too hot here), and 5w30 in the fall/winter. My 2.5L had almost 100k miles on it and died sadly to my mechanical prowess. :blackeye:
 
Actually, it's probably like 0.2 - 0.3 MPG difference ... 1 - 2 MPG is astronomical for a simple lubrication change. However, every tenth of a MPG counts ... according to CAFE regualtions:
If the average fuel economy of a manufacturer's annual car or truck production falls below the defined standard, the manufacturer must pay a penalty, currently $5.50 per 0.1 mpg under the standard, multiplied by the manufacturer's total production for the U.S. domestic market.
Click to expand...
Do the math for a vehicle like the Ford Explorer (400,000+ per year produced since introduction in 1990). $5.50 x 2 (.2 MPG shy of the average set) x 450,000 = $4,950,000!!!
 
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fastcougar said:
Actually, it's probably like 0.2 - 0.3 MPG difference ... 1 - 2 MPG is astronomical for a simple lubrication change. However, every tenth of a MPG counts ... according to CAFE regualtions:
Do the math for a vehicle like the Ford Explorer (400,000+ per year produced since introduction in 1990). $5.50 x 2 (.2 MPG shy of the average set) x 450,000 = $4,950,000!!!
Click to expand...

Holy CRAP! :shocked:

That is a lot of cash. I can see why. Well like I said, at least Volvo is straight forward about it. I can even scan the page out of the owners manual and post for the really curious...or maybe someone can find it online.

This is one of the reasons that I really like my volvo. The other reason is the 4yr - 50K mile comprehensive warranty that covers all oil changes while you are at it. :cool: I still change the oil in between the dealer changes but it's nice.
Also, most car companys offer split warranties, where they give a really long powertrain warranty but only a two year comprehensive, and stuff like that.
 
MapOfTaziFoSho said:
I run 10w30 in the summer in MI (it doesn't get too hot here), and 5w30 in the fall/winter.
Click to expand...

you do realize the only benefit you are getting is thinner oil at start-up right? because at operating temps both those oils have the same viscosity.

the better summer/winter change is 10w40/5w30 respectively (for places like michigan).
 
I run 0W40 Mobil 1. Mainly because Mobil 1 5W40 is not available locally.
If you get some "seapage" troubles with it try mixing in 1 quart of Synthetic Max-Life 5W30. I actually recommend adding a quart of Max-Life for anyone that gets the common front cover area seapage. It works quite well. My 2.5L used to have this problem noticeably (oil streaks) with 5W30. The 3L was just starting to show some "wet look" (no visible oil though) when I changed the oil last month. (3 years & 20k+ miles)
 
Now Volvo is owned by FMC. Why the difference then in manual recommendations? Just because Volvo is a more prestigious brand name?
 
Pope said:
you do realize the only benefit you are getting is thinner oil at start-up right? because at operating temps both those oils have the same viscosity.

the better summer/winter change is 10w40/5w30 respectively (for places like michigan).
Click to expand...


Yeah, I thought that was the reason to do it! :shrug:

In the winter I don't have time to let the car warm up.
 
warmonger said:
Holy CRAP! :shocked:

That is a lot of cash. I can see why. Well like I said, at least Volvo is straight forward about it. I can even scan the page out of the owners manual and post for the really curious...or maybe someone can find it online.

This is one of the reasons that I really like my volvo. The other reason is the 4yr - 50K mile comprehensive warranty that covers all oil changes while you are at it. :cool: I still change the oil in between the dealer changes but it's nice.
Also, most car companys offer split warranties, where they give a really long powertrain warranty but only a two year comprehensive, and stuff like that.
Click to expand...

That's the same warranty I had on my 02 Jaguar X-type. It's really nice to have.
 
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