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Flywheel or no flywheel?

gonzo1615

New CEG'er
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Messages
15
Ok, so i have actually researched and combed the forums looking for some advice, but I think I need to ask. I am replacing my clutch ( stock svt replacement) and I wanted to truly know whether a lighter flywheel will greatly decrease the driving enjoyment of my contour. ( will it improve?)I have heard yes, no, and in between, but no concise answer. ( I know, everyone has their own opinion) Thanks for the help guys, the advice will be put to use soon.
 
I would vote to replace it. You'll love it if you like going fast.
Just replaced my clutch for second time. Went with a Spec 2 the first time and this time Spec 1 and a Fidanza Flywheel. Im loving it.
 
Im not a fan of how cars with the aluminum flywheels drive. Sure they rev quick, but so does a lightened stock unit. Of course the only cars ive driven with the light flywheels were stage 3 clutches.... talk about on/off
 
What does on/off mean?..I really like the way the car shifts and the ease of it...is that going to change alot?
 
On/Off is refering to the lack of clutch slipping. Its very hard to slip the clutch with those set ups. It likes to be engaged quickly...
 
Deaf Ears

Deaf Ears

If you are going to drive your car in everyday traffic and drivability is of prime importance to you, keep the stock setup. I assume you didn't burn up the clutch in a short period of time so abuse is not something you need to consider.

The only thing that a lighter flywheel will do is allow the engine to rev quicker. But the small change in flywheel rotational inertia from a lighter flywheel is very small compared to the the rotational inertia of the 4 wheels that you also have to accelerate. Rotational inertia is dependent on mass at a distance from the centerline of the wheel or flywheel.

Ford, although not perfect, designed the flywheel to smooth out the power impulses of the individual cylinders and to provide more rotational inertia to make the car 'smoother', thus more drivable.

I used to race motorcycles and was a fanatic about light flywheels until I finally went to engineering school and understood what I was doing. After I applied the theory and put the stock flywheel back on, I found a much easier to ride bike and not surprizingly faster lap times.

Good luck on whatever you choose
 
Im not a fan of how cars with the aluminum flywheels drive. Sure they rev quick, but so does a lightened stock unit. Of course the only cars ive driven with the light flywheels were stage 3 clutches.... talk about on/off

Lightened Stock Unit? Are referring to the SVT flywheel or custom work?
I have a SVT and dont know what the stock Contour's flywheel (22lbs.) feels like.
Went from SVT (20lbs.) to the the Fidanza (9.5lbs.)
 
I had a Fidanza Flywheel in my SVT I think i only noticed it on hard take off that the Revs jumped and after about a day or 2 i didnt notice it anymore..
Ive heard that can lead to other problems since there lighter and rev quicker example: seals going out etc..Someone correct me if im wrong.
 
My car is stock so someone who has done this exchange would have to answer but does a lightened flywheel necessitate having to slip the clutch more to get underway? By going lighter you are changing the amount of torque generated by the engine at a given rpm because the flywheel is part of the rotating mass. Correct? If you lose some of the engine's grunt, seems to me you lose some of the tractability of the drive train. These engines aren't known for stump pulling torque to begin with and you are likely to spend more driving time below 4000 rpms than above. So that should be taken into consideration before you jump on the bandwagon. If I've learned anything from working on or modifying cars for the last 40 years it's that they generally come from the factory with the most all around drivability to performance setup. Once you change that balance, you may not be able to stop, even if you want to.

So, for example, lets say you get a lightened flywheel and discover that you are experiencing accelerated clutch wear because you've lost some torque. So you get a Spec 3 since a Spec 1 is too much like stock. Now you discover the Spec 3 doesn't slip much if at all and after a few hairy takeoffs getting used to it you break the differential and the MTX mount. See where this is heading? As always, your mileage may vary.
Karl
 
i got a new stock clutch and flywheel when i did my 3L because of funds and all the time traffic.

plus it was all out or nothing, i wanted a spec 3+ and nothing less because bobs #9 svt has a spec 2 or 1 i think and it chatters so bad..... eeek!
 
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