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3.0L Duratec missing/bogging down

billygee

New CEG'er
Joined
Mar 23, 2006
Messages
15
Thought I would keep this one separate from my P0412 CEL post from yesterday as I am now not so sure they are related as the code came up 2 weeks after the symptoms appeared.

'96 Mercury Sable with 3.0L Duratec engine.

3 weeks ago a mechanic replaced all the spark plugs and wires, apparently he had to take off the upper intake manifold to replace the rear bank plugs. Car was running perfect prior to the plug change.

100-200 kms later, the engine idles smooth with an occasional stutter, but misses and bogs down when accelerating. It seems to smooth out in the higher revs with an occasional miss. Seems to be worse when fully warmed up. The Serice Engine Soon light came on this week and my friend pulled out a P0412 error code. No other codes in memory. Code was erased and the light came back on after just 5 minutes, same error code.

Mechanic says it ran fine when he gave it back to me, refuses to bother checking into it. Couple other mechanics looked at it but one doesn't know what the problem is, the other says maybe coil pack but he doesn't know for sure.

One other thing, when I was pulling the plug wires while the engine was running to see if perhaps I have a bad plug or wires by watching for any differences in the engine running, I noticed when I pulled the wire boot out fully on the 3 front cylinders, the boot insulator end was arcing across to the metal at the top of the valve cover when held approximately 3/8-1/2 inch away. I doubt that is normal right? Could it be the stumbling is caused by the plug boots being bad and arcing acorss to the valve cover rather than thru the spark plug?

Last time I did mechanical work was way back on the old muscle cars. When we checked for a spark, we would insert a small screw driver into the boot and bring it close to the valve covers to check for a spark arcing from the screwdriver to the cover or bolt. The boot insulators themselves would not create a spark. Could I have been given defective wires?
 
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Pulled the first 3 plugs off and found they were Autolites 41-810. My original plugs were motorcraft platinums AGSF 32FMs. I didn't get to the back ones as I would have to pull the UIM off to get at the 2 on the right side and remove the coil pack and since I would have to drive the car to get the new plugs, I would rather wait till I get everything I need.

The cylinder 4 plug showed signs of wetness and shining a light down the hole showed the top of the piston as being damp. #5 plug showed some wierd marks on the insulator, somewhat like a burn mark but plug looked normal and dry, as did the #6 plug.

Wiring order is correct.

Think I will go down to the local store and get a set of new motorcrafts and replace all the autolites with them.
 
I have never owned a duratec, but it sounds like you are having the same problem I had with my zetec back in the day... it would run great under regular daily driving on dryer days... but once it started getting humid out if you got on the gas pedal it was misfires ahoy.

Ended up being a faulty Coil pack.

P0412 Secondary Air Injection System Control Valve Faulty.

Although that might have something to do with it...
 
Today I decided to replace the plugs and wires entirely, so I disconnected the battery, took the UIM off and checked out the coil pack and replaced all the plugs with Bosch Platinums and the wires with Bosch 8mms. While I had the intake off, I saw there was a lot of black crud inside it (likely from the PCV valve which looked coated with oil inside). I replaced a couple vacuum hoses that were cracked and put it all back together with new gaskets and toqued all the bolts down to 10 ft/pounds.

Started the car up and ran some throttle body cleaner thru it and the car ran MUCH better than before. Still not purring like a kitten (still misses at idle, but NOT as bad as before) but definitely better than before. SES light was still on but figured I would get that looked at by the ford dealership after the holiday weekend (Thanksgiving up here in Canada this weekend).

However, I took the car out for a drive and it was much more responsive and smoother driving, however the "service engine soon" light started blinking steadily.

Right now I don't have access to a scanner till mine comes in on Tuesday. Anyone have any ideas what it could be? All the vacuum hoses seem good and tight and in the right places, all electrical connections are tight as well.
 
' "service engine soon" light started blinking steadily. '

Engine misfire. Usually due to spark plug wiring order (incorrectly installed), sp gap, fuel injector or ignition coil issue. Verify that these are working correctly first if you don't have a code scanner or reader.
 
Engine misfire. Usually due to spark plug wiring order (incorrectly installed), sp gap, fuel injector or ignition coil issue. Verify that these are working correctly first if you don't have a code scanner or reader.

Wiring order is correct, all wires plugged in until I felt them click.

Spark plugs were all gapped to specs.

When I had the coil pack off, I ran a multi meter on it. Not sure if I was doing it right or not, but when I checked the resistance, every pin would cause the meter to flicker a bit and then go right to 0 for every pin and cap. Figured I was doing it wrong so put it back on with the rest of it and like I said, engine ran better. STILL could be the coil.

Have not checked the injectors yet. Searching for info on how to do that.
 
Problem solved!

Problem solved!

Thanks to Tony's tip on the injectors, I had a friend use a screwdriver to check if the injectors were clicking (My hearing isn't so good) and he noticed the injector for cylinder #4 (this was the cylinder that I noticed a wet plug in) was not making a sound. Upon further checking, it appeared the plug was loose so I pressed it in and presto, the engine started purring like a kitten.

The SES light no longer blinks, but still stays on (likely because of the afore-mentioned P0412 code, which I will look into once I get CD for this car and can do the diagnostic.

Took the car out for a spin and it performed like a Duratec should, full of power and smooth as a baby's skin lol.

Thanks guys, especially Tony!
 
You are most welcome. If you get a chance, get the code(s) read at Autozone or Advance (free service). Sometimes it takes one or two cycles for the codes to be erased after the problem is fixed. You may erase it yourself by disconnecting the battery or by pulling the PCM memory fuse for a few minutes. However, if you haven't fixed the issue for the P0412, the SES light will most likely turn on again.
 
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Thanks for the tip, Tony. We don;t have an Autozone or Advance up here in Canada, but I have a scanner coming in from ebay, which should be here this week. If the light doesn't go away, I will run thru the diagnostic routine previously posted once I get the scanner I ordered off ebay.
 
VERY GOOD TO HEAR MAN!

Congrats on the fix. Although if you have misfire problems again (just a heads up) its because of the spark plugs, Ford engines generally dont like anything but autolite or Motorcaft plugs.

Although ive not heard many problems with Bosch plugs before.

Good work on the self fix :)
 
I will be picking up a set of motorcraft platinums AGSF 32FMs just in case the Bosch ones start giving problems. The only reason I got the Bosch ones is because I couldn't get the motorcaft ones as they were all sold out in several places here in own. It was either the Bosch or Champions. I thought about getting the Bosch +4s but heard they were more problematic.
 
I will be picking up a set of motorcraft platinums AGSF 32FMs just in case the Bosch ones start giving problems. The only reason I got the Bosch ones is because I couldn't get the motorcaft ones as they were all sold out in several places here in own. It was either the Bosch or Champions. I thought about getting the Bosch +4s but heard they were more problematic.

I would just go back to Autolites if it were my car, The motorcraft plugs that come in our cars are actually made by Autolite from what i've read.

Just my .02 cents
 
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