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Need opinion...

A

andymel

New CEG'er
Joined
Apr 21, 2003
Messages
26
Location
New York, USA
Looks like I have to replace the clutch on my 2000 SVTC. Any recommentations? I have SHO/K&N intake, magnaflow resonator and will install high flow headers and magnaflow mufflers along with new clutch.

Gracias,
Andy.
 
andymel said:
Looks like I have to replace the clutch on my 2000 SVTC. Any recommentations? I have SHO/K&N intake, magnaflow resonator and will install high flow headers and magnaflow mufflers along with new clutch.

Gracias,
Andy.
Click to expand...

I would install a spec stage 1.Just my 2cents.Good clutch all around.
 
I'm running a SPEC stage 1. Personally if you plan on putting down more power I would upgrade to the SPEC stage 2+ kit. I think I may be kicking myself in the ass when I put a turbo on the car later on.
 
I have a SPEC stage 1 on my car and it is a great clutch. Bites a little better than stock, but is still great for daily driving. It feels the most like a stock clutch. I also would agree that if you plan on going for big power in the future (turbo or S/C), it might be wise to go with stage 2+. It is all a matter of preference. I love my stage 1, but I am kicking myself for not going something higher but I didn't know that I would be putting on a turbo a few months later! By the way, if your looking for the longevity of the clutch, spec stage 1 is the way to go.

There is a guy on the forums who most of us by our spec clutches through... he gets great deals on them and is very fast with shipping... I forgot his CEG name though even though I recently bought my clutch from him! :crazy: Someone please post the guys name... is it SVTedwardgo or something???

Anyways, hope this helps and good luck with the clutch!


Reebs
 
Thanks. As usual you guys are stellar when it comes to getting good information about the SVTC. Looks like it's going to be the spec stage 1. I read about some chatter issues with this clutch and also that there might be a newer model of this clutch available. Any input on this?
 
While you have your car pulled apart for a clutch install is a good time to also have a limited slip diff (torsen, quaife) put in.
 
PDXSVT said:
While you have your car pulled apart for a clutch install is a good time to also have a limited slip diff (torsen, quaife) put in.
Click to expand...

How much $$ are we talking about?

By the way the symptom I am seeing with the clutch is every once in a while it depresses without any resistanct and I cannot put the transmission into gear. It is not really slipping so I hope clutch wear is the cause and not something else.
 
Others have had problems with worn out synchros, so if your problem sounds like what they had, they should chime in soon. But I'd want to hear more about your symptoms before I'd conclude it's a bad clutch.

Tranny rebuild, new lsd, new clutch, new synchros, labor on the subframe, shipping/labor/parts installs with Terry Haines...there's $2-3k. But your tranny holds up when you race it.
 
PDXSVT said:
Others have had problems with worn out synchros, so if your problem sounds like what they had, they should chime in soon. But I'd want to hear more about your symptoms before I'd conclude it's a bad clutch.

Tranny rebuild, new lsd, new clutch, new synchros, labor on the subframe, shipping/labor/parts installs with Terry Haines...there's $2-3k. But your tranny holds up when you race it.
Click to expand...

I don't do much racing, just spirited bouts on the public roads while trying reeeaaal hard to keep the speeds close to legal.

So here's the deal with the clutch. Works but about once or twice during my 30+ mile commute the clutch pedal just drops without any resistance and the shifter will not be able to put the tranny into gear. I then pump the clutch, usually a couple of times, until I feel that reassuring pressure and then I can shift normally. Please help before I buy a new clutch which I would like to avoid if at all possible until I have some $$ to burn.
 
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