New Fuel Filter Worked

[snappydwp1]

I changed the fuel filter on the brother inlaw's 1999 Contour following the very helpful instructions from GTO Pete's thread.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=v6maint&Number=958655&Forum=v6maint&Words=plato&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=2500&Old=allposts&Main=958655&Search=true#Post958655
Thanks alot.
The missing seems to have gone away. The filter that I replaced was an original Ford part so I would only guess that having 79,000 miles on the car it has never been changed.
I also noticed that the online owner's manual for the 99 model does not have the same configuration for the under the hood fuse box in this car I'm working on. But the 98 owner's manual has the same set up of fuses that the inlaw's 99 car has. He swears that it's a 99 model. More than likely an early 99 assembled with the 98 fuse box.
Thanks for all the great info. guys.

 

[Tony2005]

.... He swears that it's a 99 model. More than likely an early 99 assembled with the 98 fuse box.
...

Maybe. One good way to confirm the year is to check the VIN 10th digit from the left. If it is X, then it is a 99. If it is W, it is a 98.

 

[snappydwp1]

Maybe. One good way to confirm the year is to check the VIN 10th digit from the left. If it is X, then it is a 99. If it is W, it is a 98.

It's an X, it's a 99.
Well I guess the fuel filter did not fix the missing problem.
Here's what is happening...if the car sets for more than three hours and cools off it will start fine but start missing on aceleration. My brother drives it over to my house, about 10 miles. We jump in and it runs fine no problems.:shocked: So it seems to be a problem with when the car starts out cold.

 

[Tony2005]

It could be an IAC valve issue. Post the CELs.

 

[snappydwp1]

It could be an IAC valve issue. Post the CELs.

Well, Tony I have no idea what IAC is or what CELs are.:shrug:
Please realize that you are trying to communicate with someone who owns a car that you have to turn the crank on the front to start it.

 

[dyaballikl]

cel=check engine light. you'd have to have an obd ii code reader to get the codes. sounds like he's right, though. ask around and see if anyone you know has a code reader, or try asking local mechanics. sometimes they'll do it for real cheap or free.

 

[Tony2005]

....Please realize that you are trying to communicate with someone who owns a car that you have to turn the crank on the front to start it.

ROTFL. My dad had a MG in the early 60s which had a crank in the front (as a backup if the battery was not strong enough to start the car). :laugh:

Take the car to AdvanceAuto or Autozone. Tell them you want them to read the codes (free service) for your Check Engine Light. Then post the exact codes here. Don't buy any parts yet.

The Idle Air Control Valve is located near the firewall of the car. For a V6, it is the cylindrical silver thing located above the forefinger fingernail (at 1:00 o'clock position).
http://www.contour.org/php/showpic.php?img=/FAQ/img/th-plug2.jpg

 

[Ray]

A quick primer:

OBD (On Board Diagnostics)
Refered to in either of two revisions OBD-I or OBD-II (the later version is federally required for all 1996 and newer vehicles.

CEL - Check engine light
Illuminates when you turn the key to "on" to prove that the light works, then will illuminate while running if a problem exists. If a problem exists and the light comes on, there will be a "code" stored in the memory of the car's computer.

Go to the nearest chain parts store (Autozone, Advanced Auto, etc) and ask them to check your Check engine codes. they will plug in a module to your car and scan the codes.. they will try to give you "their" explanation of the code, but (even if you need to be persistent) make sure you obtain the exact code NUMBER.

The number will be a 4 digit number (1171, 0430, etc)

return with that number here and we can properly diagnose and provide you with pinpoint troubleshooting procedures to repair your problem.


Welcome to the CEG, friend.

 

[Heywood]

I have not tried myself yet, but I have heard many times that parts stores in Cali won't read the codes. Still worth asking, but just in case they refuse, its not unheard of.

 

[Big Jim]

If it has a returnless fuel system, it sounds like you may have the plugged fuel pump filter screen problem that is endemic with that system. Find the FAQ on changing the fuel pump, read it, find the last photo on the how to and identify the screen. Then remove your pump, find the screen, and throw the thing away. You don't need it. There is a conventional sock filter before the pump inside the module. The screen that plugs too easily is too small and too fine. Confirm that you don't have fuel contamination. Put it back together and have a nice life.

 

[Ray]

I have not tried myself yet, but I have heard many times that parts stores in Cali won't read the codes. Still worth asking, but just in case they refuse, its not unheard of.

crap.. that is correct.. California does NOT offer free code scanning. Big Jim offers a great thought, though... it is absolutely a GIVEN (if you own your returnless long enough) that your fuel sock WILL clog. Its worth betting on... It could, in fact, be your time..

Look in the Duratec Maintenance forum, in the "Read-first" thread for the fuel pump removal how-to.

 

[snappydwp1]

Thanks for all the information folks.:laugh:
When I got off work today at Pepsi-Cola I walked over to our fleet garage and talked to Norm about the code tester. He showed me the one that they use in the shop and he said that I could probably pick one up for about $60.00. So I'm thinking that I might buy one for myself for our modern cars. It just seems like a nessesary tool to have now a days.

 

[dyaballikl]

yeah, i use mine to read all my friends' codes. i got a $200 one off ebay for about $60. also, use it regularly, about once a month. many codes are small things that won't actually turn on the CEL, but may be worth looking at.

 

[Big Jim]

Harbor Freight has an inexpensive one that works well. Last I knew it was $40.00. It is a reader only.

 

[andreslobo]

The code reader won't fix a weak fuel pump

The code reader won't fix a weak fuel pump

In your 99 replacing the fuel pump is a real bugger, in earlier years the very nice folks at ford made a hole in the floor under the rear seat that would allow the fuel pump change in minutes. Then in 99 they made the cap for the fuel pump larger, but not the hole.

Two methods, 1. pull the fuel tank. 2. cut a larger hole.

After pulling the fuel tank and replacing mine, I will absolutely cut a larger hole the next time.

You can replace just the pump or you can replace the whole assembly, I replaced the hole thing for over $250 as the in tank filters appeared to be the real flow restriction. But with as much work as pulling the tank was I made certain that I would NEVER have to pull it again.

Someone on ebay regularly sells fuel pump assemblies for MUCH less than ford.

A brother in law's car?? I have 6 of them and although they are nice guys I'd never pull a fuel tank for them, cut the hole

Good luck