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Lower Control Arm Bushing

What gets me is that is says 2 per car. For mine (2 bolt LCA's) I'd need 2 per ARM. I also have been told that they don't make just bushings, you need to replace the entire arm.:shrug: It would be nice if it worked, though.
 
Mine is a 1997 so it only had one bushing per side it looked
 
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Vehicle:
1997 FORD CONTOUR SPORT Engine:V6 2.5 Liter FI
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Control Arm Bushing: Front Lower
http://javascript<b></b>:popGuide('MCQ', 'FB892');
 
Your 97 Contour has the 4 bolt style LCA's which have non replaceable bushings in them. Some 98's and 99 and up have the 2 bolt style LCA's which Autozone and the like can get replacment bushings for.
 
Really? So if my bushings are deteriorated and sqeaking a little, I don't have to replace both entire LCA's? I'm guessing you'd have to DIY or have someone other than a ford shop do it.
 
CLASSVT said:
Really? So if my bushings are deteriorated and sqeaking a little, I don't have to replace both entire LCA's? I'm guessing you'd have to DIY or have someone other than a ford shop do it.
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Yes, if you have the 2 bolt ones, you can DIY or try to get an indie to do it. IIRC, there was a post or two in the old forums where a CEGer "torched" the rubber inserts out of the LCA, then used a press to insert the new ones in.

Edit. It is the rear control arm bushings which you can DIY. Not the front LCA bushings. The front bushings (if ever available) will probably as expensive as the front LCAs.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/s...allposts&Main=1125789&Search=true#Post1125789
 
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The 2 bolt are like $99 a pair. Why go through the work of replacing bushings when you get a new arm with brand new ball jounts on them as well? BJ's alone are about $20-30 a piece.
 
Tony2005 said:
IIRC, there was a post or two in the old forums where a CEGer "torched" the rubber inserts out of the LCA, then used a press to insert the new ones in.
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That makes absolutely no sense at all. If you torched anything out, it would obviously be rubber and you will definitely not be pressing rubber in to a metal sleeve. What's req'd w/b a "bonding" process. I will give you a break though as you prefaced your point with "IIRC".

4 bolt arms are still the best and it appears that Ford has figured that out as the price (list) is now close to $200 each.
 
sounds like a bad wheel bearing but not quite

sounds like a bad wheel bearing but not quite

what else beside a bad wheel bearing is going to make the same deep noise when the car turns left? i jacked up the car , checked if the wheels were loose, they are ok, tie rods are fine, oh, how do you call that rod with 2 boots located right after the wheel bearing? that thing seems to be loose a litle on both sides. any ideas?
 
Bradness said:
That makes absolutely no sense at all. If you torched anything out, it would obviously be rubber and you will definitely not be pressing rubber in to a metal sleeve. What's req'd w/b a "bonding" process. I will give you a break though as you prefaced your point with "IIRC".

4 bolt arms are still the best and it appears that Ford has figured that out as the price (list) is now close to $200 each.
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Bradness,

:mad: Firstly, you need to learn to read the whole post including the edits and links before posting. Secondly, I don't need any breaks from you. :rolleyes:

Edit. One other thing. And since you suggested 4 bolts arms, how do you propose to install a four bolt arm into a two bolt arm frame?
 
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Tony2005 said:
Bradness,

:mad: Firstly, you need to learn to read the whole post including the edits and links before posting. Secondly, I don't need any breaks from you. :rolleyes:

Edit. One other thing. And since you suggested 4 bolts arms, how do you propose to install a four bolt arm into a two bolt arm frame?
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You could buy my spare 4 bolt frame after I'm done mocking up my turbo piping :laugh:

Here are some pitcures:

IMG_5105.jpg


IMG_5106.jpg
 
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