Coolant light, and Battery light searched.

[SVTJames]

Lately, I've had my coolant light come on right when I hop in it and start it when its cold. When it moves off all the way cold on the gauge, it goes away. I've searched and everyone says to add half inch of coolant above max line. OK, but will this light ever go away? I've seen people do this and they complain that a month later it comes back.

And also, I've searched the battery light comes on when I hit 6k rpm. When I first got the car, I drove it hard, because of being excited to have the car. Anyways, I remember shifting hard to 3rd and 4th and hearing a belt squeal. After searching, finding out that it could be a belt or tensioner or alternator. My situation is I just changed my alternator two weeks ago, it completely died on me on the road. I went to autozone and purchased a Duracraft with a warranty(NOT VALUECRAFT). I put a temp gauge on the car when when idleing, it reads 13.8-14.0. The only time it goes any lower is when my system is hitting hard. So how can I diagnose the tensioner being bad, and where can I purchase another one?


Any feedback on either items is most appreciated. Thanks.

-James

 

[BrApple]

coolant light will only come back on later if you are loosing coolant .... fill it 1/2 inch abov ethe max line and you should be set unless you have a problem.

if the alternator is new and the voltage across the battery is good try a new belt first. then if you still get a battery light when shifting and the belt slips replace the tensioner .... get it from ford or a local parts store ...

 

[BlackE1]

I put a temp gauge on the car when when idleing, it reads 13.8-14.0. The only time it goes any lower is when my system is hitting hard.
Any feedback on either items is most appreciated. Thanks.

-James

A temporary gauge?
Or a temperature gauge?

Isn't that voltage a little high for idle should it be closer to 12.7V?

 

[BrApple]

Isn't that voltage a little high for idle should it be closer to 12.7V?

battery alone without the car running should be about 12.5 volts.

with nothing on the voltage at idle should be 13.7 to 14.7

with various items on, lights, defroster, etc the voltage at idle could drop but it shouldn't get as low as 12.7 I don't believe

 

[SVTJames]

I mean't a voltage gauge sorry, but yeah I have a one farat capacitor, now I have to check the belt and go from there.

 

[98TredSVT]

I had the battery light coming on for about a month and a half every time I got into high rpm and slowly it came on at lower and lower rpm, and then my alternator went out. I installed a new alternator and it hasn't happened since.