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3L swap

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pyrotech5

New CEG'er
Joined
Apr 5, 2007
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i have been looking on here for a while now and can not find a direct anwser to this... yes i searched and yes i looked in the archives

what is everything i need and should do to swap my 2.5 for a 3.0?

if there is anyone that could help me relay the pieces so i can do it would be great. my contour has been sitting for a while and i cannot bear to see her sit for much longer.

(flaming expected)
 
Depends what kind of 3.0L swap your doing? Theres quite a few different kinds...

3.0L hybrid (3.0L with 2.5L heads)

Full oval port 3.0L with 3.0L intakes

Full oval port 3.0L with 2.5L split port intakes

Full split port 3.0L with 2.5L split port intakes
 
pyrotech5 said:
i have been looking on here for a while now and can not find a direct anwser to this... yes i searched and yes i looked in the archives

what is everything i need and should do to swap my 2.5 for a 3.0?

if there is anyone that could help me relay the pieces so i can do it would be great. my contour has been sitting for a while and i cannot bear to see her sit for much longer.

(flaming expected)
Click to expand...

How about you post everything you think you might need and everything you're not sure about?

That way, we can be sure to help you out with details and you can reassure us that you really did search and look in the archives.:cool:
 
It's an easy 5 step process:
  1. Order engine from 3Lduratec.com
  2. install engine
  3. send core parts back to 3lduratec.com
  4. get tune from nautilus (warmonger)
  5. Enjoy
 
beyondloadedSE said:
Depends what kind of 3.0L swap your doing? Theres quite a few different kinds...

3.0L hybrid (3.0L with 2.5L heads)

Full oval port 3.0L with 3.0L intakes

Full oval port 3.0L with 2.5L split port intakes

Full split port 3.0L with 2.5L split port intakes
Click to expand...

Not to nitpick or anything, but might you word that differently, stating block, heads, and intakes for all the mentioned combinations?

For example:
3.0L hybrid 3.0L block with Contour heads and Contour intakes.

or

3.0L hybrid 3.0L block with 2.5L heads and Contour intakes.

I only mention this because A: People are always confused and B: I don't know the difference between your last two combinations.:shrug:
 
i don't know wot the diff b/w tha last 2 combinations are either. my guess is it might have sumthn to do with which cams u use. i dunno. but the 2.5 refers to the contour. so hybrid 3l is 3l block with 2.5(contour) heads n 2.5(contour) intakes.
 
muntus said:
I only mention this because A: People are always confused and B: I don't know the difference between your last two combinations.:shrug:
Click to expand...

The last two differ in head ports. Prior to 01 the 3.0 was a split port engine just like the 2.5 so you can bolt your intakes directly to that without doing any port matching. However the split port 3.0 never had a cam driven water pump so you'd have to cut your water pump cam (to fit under the valve cover if you're using 2.5 cams) and run an electric pump. The 3.0 Oval port had a cam driven water pump but not split port heads obviously.
 
well im looking for the most bang for the buck, so what ever you guys are thinking would be best...

the top end of the 2.5 in there i believe to be fine, it just got a lower-end knock and now the crank is out of round.
 
Redlineracer12 said:
The last two differ in head ports. Prior to 01 the 3.0 was a split port engine just like the 2.5 so you can bolt your intakes directly to that without doing any port matching. However the split port 3.0 never had a cam driven water pump so you'd have to cut your water pump cam (to fit under the valve cover if you're using 2.5 cams) and run an electric pump. The 3.0 Oval port had a cam driven water pump but not split port heads obviously.
Click to expand...

Thank you. Somebody saw the difference in the heads. ;)
 
well i can give you my figures. i built a 3L hybrid with a split port 3L block and used 2.5 SE heads with intakes and had the 3L valves put in the heads. my total for the engine alone is $1800 that is not including a clutch/flywheel or differential. i did purchase a set of SVT cams and injectors for a total of $250 so already that would put you at $1550 i also bought 3 engines one for $125 one for $140 and another (just for the pistons) for $30 so if you find one engine for $150 or so then doing the way i did would only cost $1350 for building the engine. hope that helps
 
kscontourkid said:
well i can give you my figures. i built a 3L hybrid with a split port 3L block and used 2.5 SE heads with intakes and had the 3L valves put in the heads. my total for the engine alone is $1800 that is not including a clutch/flywheel or differential. i did purchase a set of SVT cams and injectors for a total of $250 so already that would put you at $1550 i also bought 3 engines one for $125 one for $140 and another (just for the pistons) for $30 so if you find one engine for $150 or so then doing the way i did would only cost $1350 for building the engine. hope that helps
Click to expand...

Holy frick! You spent a fortune for a motor that isn't even forged!
 
Maybe this is a little less ambiguous:

3.0L block with 2.5L split port heads and 2.5L intakes(Hybrid)

3.0L block with 3.0L oval port heads and 3.0L intakes(Full oval port)

3.0L block with 3.0L oval port heads and 2.5L split port intakes(Split port conversion)

3.0L block with 3.0L split port heads 2.5L split port intakes(Pre-2001)


On my split port conversion, I put about $600 into the engine, Cleavite77 bearings, and a couple of tubes of JB Weld. I only wish Bugzuki had his plates when I did mine. It would have made it a lot easier.
 
so im guessing that a the full split port will be the better option? (3.0 block, 3.0 split port heads and 2.5 split port intake)

where should i get the motor? is 3lduratec.com any good?
 
pyrotech5 said:
so im guessing that a the full split port will be the better option? (3.0 block, 3.0 split port heads and 2.5 split port intake)

where should i get the motor? is 3lduratec.com any good?
Click to expand...

I would advise going agaisnt that only because youll have to run an electric waterpump since 3.0L split port heads dont use the cam driven waterpump like ours does. Its certainly an option and most people shun away from it. I went with this motor when I did my 3.0L turbo setup and the EWP drove me nuts. Always wanted to overheat. Took about 30 mins to get heat in the winter time. Plus the EWP is not a direct bolt on.

The easiest swap is probably the hybrid although some will probably debate, its probably the least reliable since you'll still have potential oil starvation problems since you dont have the 3.0L heads with an extra oil passage.

Id say the best overall motor in terms of reliability, power, cost, and feasibility is probably just a full oval port. I believe you have to do some brazing with the fuel rail and maybe some other minor things, but thats not that difficult.

EDIT: I think Burrita is working on a fuel rail thats a direct swap for this application.

Not many people have done the 3.0L with oval port heads port matched to the 2.5L intakes. If you want your heads ported youll probably be looking at $1000 minimum to have that done. Of course, once you have that done, you can just slap your 2.5L intakes on. Power numbers seem to be good as well.
 
Last edited:
beyondloadedSE said:
Not many people have done the 3.0L with oval port heads port matched to the 2.5L intakes. If you want your heads ported youll probably be looking at $1000 minimum to have that done. Of course, once you have that done, you can just slap your 2.5L intakes on. Power numbers seem to be good as well.
Click to expand...

or just get joey's LIM replacement piece. No portn n polishn required!
 
I think the split port conversion is pretty easy if you have an engine stand and some patience. This guide is what I used. That way, everything from your Contour bolts up and no brazing of the fuel line is required.

Here's part of my LIM port matching on oval port heads:

Before


During


After


Bling!


I did the port matching with the heads on the engine. I wasn't planning on replacing head gaskets, so I stuffed grease and rags in the ports, ground out the port to match the LIM, and flipped it upside down to clean it with the garden hose and stuff. I figured I was going to be massaging the exhaust ports a little anyways, so doing this was no big deal. JB Weld Kwik provides the filler. Nowadays, you don't have to use epoxy if you don't want to.:cool:
 
Reebs said:
Holy frick! You spent a fortune for a motor that isn't even forged!
Click to expand...

So what you are saying is the old 3Ls do not have forged crank and rods? i have documentation that says all 3Ls are forged rods and crank... im confused. i did spend way more than i should have but its too late now. im confused about the forged parts
 
If the rods are OEM they are not forged, they are PM sintered(compressed metal)rather than heat forged,97-05 Escape,Sable,Taurus 3L Duratechs all have forged cranks
Good Luck Rikk
 
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